Hey Guys,

I have a problem with my 1990 Honda CRX Si B16A! Here is the problem... As I drive at a CONSISTANT SPEED for say 5 Mins my car starts to BOG and if I stay on the GAS PEDAL CONSITANT even though it's doing the [::BOGGING::] it goes away then comes back and then goes away. WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?? HAS ANYBODY HERE RAN INTO THE SAME PROBLEM?? Thank you for your time and Peace OUT TILL NEXT TIME..

Ravindra Armogan


[Modified by Knightrider, 11:25 PM 8/7/2001]

 

May be time to change clutch! anbody??

 

Sound's like the clutch to me, Bad Driver hehehe!!

 

I don't see it being the clutch because if it was it won't bogg but it would rev up, slip!

I could be your fuel pump. When I did my conversion, my pump went after the first blast with the car. I put a Mazda one in temporarily but I'm going with a inline one now from holley. My car was bogging the same as yours around the 2-3000 rpm mark.

 

The problem is your O2 sensors reporting incorrectly to the ECU... provided that the bogging isn't very serious. OK, start from the beginning.

There are two main types of bogging problems I've personally experienced with my '88 B16A CRX. Both are currently solved, so don't take anyone's bullshit saying these solutions won't work - they will. The first bogging problem is a total and complete loss of power when at speed. The car's still running, it's in gear, it's on, but the more you press the gas the more it bogs down. This is caused by a defective/dying fuel pump. Replace it immediately or the problem will get worse and worse until your car dies. Replacing the fuel filter strainer will not solve the problem; it's the pump itself. Pick up a Holly 255lph pump online at http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com for about $107, et voila - problem solved.

The second bogging problem involves the O2 sensors, and it's kind of like a surging/bogging which happens repeatedly when the car's at PART THROTTLE ONLY... ie., mashing on it will stop it from bogging. This problem is caused by one bank of cylinders running abnormally lean - I believe it's the cylinder pair #1 and #2 (those sourced by the secondary O2 sensor in the downpipe). This plagued me for months before someone (Derick from Hondata) told me the way to fix it. The solution to this one's real easy, and you're gonna love it - unplug both your O2 sensors. That's it, that's all. You WILL receive a check engine light from time to time, but ignore it; it's just signalling the O2 sensors are disconnected. What's more, it doesn't affect any of your car's systems.

I hope that helps. Let us know which of the two problems you were suffering from.

 

yeah, i do expierence this bogging myself...i just though it was my RSR exhaust..because its like a constant backfire, but when i punch the throttle up a little it goes away...are you all running first-gen b16a1s?

 

I am. PR3 ECU also.

 

raenshadow....i believe i have a very similar setup to yours...from reading some of ur other posts and replies, i had the same problems too! I tried the O2 sensor thing...since i only have one O2, and it sort of got rid of my eradic idling and slite hesitation...but the idle still fluxuates quite a bit, especially if i turn on my headlights, i have a Catz zeta headlight amp system...maybe that has something to do with it? Is it a good chance that it is the fuel pump??


[Modified by JDMB16ACRX, 11:28 PM 8/5/2001]

 

I have a fluctuating idle too. Unfortunately the O2 sensors probably aren't responsible for this, as it's rather common with B16A CRXs. I really wish I knew what it was... I don't have any sort of modified electronics in my car besides an amp, head unit and subs.

 

hmmm...aite...guess we gotta wait to see if anyone know's a solution for this problem hehe

 

I think almost everyone with a b16 is having idle problems......I have replaced pretty much everything and adjusted everything else and I still have your same problem. Only difference is I have a Spoon ecu.

 

geez...i wish someone knew how to solve this problem

 

yup....idle problems here too

 

02 sensor

 

meaning what?

 

It's NOT a problem with the O2 sensor - my O2 sensors aren't even connected and my idle is still fluctuating, even after a CEL has shown up indicating the computer recognizes there's no O2 sensors attached . Don't just jump to conclusions.

 

i know exacly how to fix the part throttle poor running problem and it does have to do with a common o2 wiring mistake made on every obd0 b16 swap ive ever seen including mine when it was in my integra and later when it was in my crx. its fixed now so i know from personal experience what you likely have done wrong and how to fix it. it gets kinda technical so email me and i'll help you through it. i'm guessing you have the stock 4-2-1 b16 exaust manifold with 2 o2 sesors in the upper manifold side by side and you have them wired together into the one o2 wire in your harness or you only have one sensor hooked up or ur using an aftermarket header with only one o2 provision or you knew you had to run a wire to the ecu for the second o2 sensor and just have them switched(if so just switch em under the hood and reset the ecu. its required that both of the o2 sensors be hooked up properly on thier seperate wires(not switched)for any obd0 b16 to run at its full potential. also the 2 sensors read sets of 2 cylinder(1 and 4)(2 and 3) independently and adjust them like seperate banks of cylinders, so you gotta have a 4-2-1 manifold with an o2 where 1 and 4 merge and a provision where 2and 3 merge. the only 2 that i know of are the stock obd0 jdm b16 exaust manifold which is fairly nice, and a header made only by hasport and they want $400 for it

 

smokinfairlane@aol.com

 

Raene is correct about fixing the bogging with teh O2 wires...C8 and C16. I had to do that on my PR3 as well...no CEL...

I also have a very very minimal fluctuating idle. I did have a high (2K) idle until I changed out my IACV. I'm gonna replace all of my vaccum hoses soon, to hopfully fix my fluc. idle.

 

Erratic idle:
http://www.hondaswap.com/forum...29790

 

when my b16 bogged i unplugged the o2 sensors and the bogging went away. now it just runs rich

 

so how do you know which is which....if your going from left to right on the o2 sensors which is c8 and which is c16

 

wow, this one is back from the dead!

ya its a VERY common mistake to have the two wires wrong. hasport makes you believe its just a little easier than it actuall is

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda90si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so how do you know which is which....if your going from left to right on the o2 sensors which is c8 and which is c16</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good ol FAQ
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=637661
scroll down about 1/3 of the page, can't miss it

 

not to jack the thread, but would switching over to a 4 wire sensor fix the problem in the second instance as well?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The problem is your O2 sensors reporting incorrectly to the ECU... provided that the bogging isn't very serious. OK, start from the beginning.

There are two main types of bogging problems I've personally experienced with my '88 B16A CRX. Both are currently solved, so don't take anyone's bullshit saying these solutions won't work - they will. The first bogging problem is a total and complete loss of power when at speed. The car's still running, it's in gear, it's on, but the more you press the gas the more it bogs down. This is caused by a defective/dying fuel pump. Replace it immediately or the problem will get worse and worse until your car dies. Replacing the fuel filter strainer will not solve the problem; it's the pump itself. Pick up a Holly 255lph pump online at http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com for about $107, et voila - problem solved.

The second bogging problem involves the O2 sensors, and it's kind of like a surging/bogging which happens repeatedly when the car's at PART THROTTLE ONLY... ie., mashing on it will stop it from bogging. This problem is caused by one bank of cylinders running abnormally lean - I believe it's the cylinder pair #1 and #2 (those sourced by the secondary O2 sensor in the downpipe). This plagued me for months before someone (Derick from Hondata) told me the way to fix it. The solution to this one's real easy, and you're gonna love it - unplug both your O2 sensors. That's it, that's all. You WILL receive a check engine light from time to time, but ignore it; it's just signalling the O2 sensors are disconnected. What's more, it doesn't affect any of your car's systems.

I hope that helps. Let us know which of the two problems you were suffering from.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda90si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so how do you know which is which....if your going from left to right on the o2 sensors which is c8 and which is c16</TD></TR></TABLE>