I have a G3 teg and was wondering how many of you have run new speaker wire into your doors? I found one article ( http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=257 ), which was very informative. This article says it is somewhat difficult, what I am really looking for is people that have tried this. How did it go? How long did it take? Would you suggest doing it? I do not have a lot of experience doing this type of thing, but I am fairly handy and have done some other simple audio projects before. Thanks for the input.

 

Depends on the kind of speaker and the power you are going to run into the door speakers. For 95% of the people out there the stock wiring will suit them fine. If you are putting a lot of power ie amplified speakers/componets then you may want to consider doing it. Its not as hard as it seems just time consuming. Good Luck

 

Well, I was planning on running some new components (haven't decided what kind yet) powered by a Punch 400a.4, but I just found out that if you have a four door (which I do), you cannot do this on the drivers side because the molex plug is already all filled up with wires. Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

How much power can the OEM speaker wires in the front handle? (1999 Integra GS) If I push it or surpass their suggested power max, is it a safety or resistance issue? Would all that power melt the wires and pose a fire hazard, or would it just be that the extra power would be wasted due to the resistance of the thin wire?

 

I kinda have a similar issue. i have some Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.5 comp. and Kappa 6.5 2 ways for the rear. If I was to mount the amp under the passenger seat or seat hatch 01 Integra. How much speaker wiring should i buy. Also should i use 16 gauge or 12 gauge wiring for the ampd speakers in the doors. I am running 12 gauge to the subs.

 

Well, To answer both of your questions, OEM wiring, depending on the gauge I would guess 18, would handle almost anything you can send to a pair of compontents, it's the effeciency that causes you to want to upgrade, (In the rare case you are sending 200+ watts then it's a diff story)

If your going to upgrade I would recomend 12 gauge, because then it is an actual upgrade, you probably won't even "Hear" a difference but It might be easier on the amp. Every wire has it's own resistance, and OEM wire is not high quality, you might be loosing a fraction of an ohm in the wiring, which on the amp side could affect the wattage it puts out.

Perks, It's cheap, easier on the amp, might sounds minimally better.

Easiest way, IMO, the stock wire goes from the speaker to the deck, find a point about half way beween the two, (inside the door) cut the wire, Duct tape both ends of the new wire to the ends of the old wire and pull for both ends. BE CAREFUL the duct tape might not hold, depending on how tight your fittings are, might try crimping the two ends together just to get them through, (it worked for me, but the space wasn't that tight.

Good luck

 

thanks a lot!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Torridcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Easiest way, IMO, the stock wire goes from the speaker to the deck, find a point about half way beween the two, (inside the door) cut the wire, Duct tape both ends of the new wire to the ends of the old wire and pull for both ends. BE CAREFUL the duct tape might not hold, depending on how tight your fittings are, might try crimping the two ends together just to get them through, (it worked for me, but the space wasn't that tight. Good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

Great Idea!

 

Good Idea. Thanks Torridcivic.

 

this may help a bit.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For wire, 16 ga should be acceptable. 16 ga is the largest wire that I was able to pass though the door connector comfortably and not have to worry about creating problems. Others may have done the same operation with 12ga, but trust me you don't need the extra size, and the added risk doesn't make up for any benefit - it's essentally overkill.

Stock wiring for the speakers is about 22 ga, and is far too small for any highpowered application.

Stay away from any of that special twisted wire...it will be near impossible in this application. I have had good success with the Stinger Pro Series wire and the PG QX series wires. The bulky stuff (i.e. PG zero point), while it looks cool just won't work, and is a total pain to strip and cut, etc. Wire is very cheap, so buy PLENTY of extra...it's not cool to learn that your speaker wires are a foot too short after going through all this trouble. Take what you think you will need and add 50%...that's what I do, and the extra $5-10 is worth the extra insurance in the long run.

Ok, here is how you tackle the wire problem in the late model hondas (this is 00 Civic specific, but should cover everything as Honda recycles parts like it's going out of style)

First, open the door, and check things out. You will see a rubber boot and condiuit that runs from the door jamb to the door.

Remove the doorpanel, and peel back the weather coating...if you get any of that white goo on your arms, clothes, etc...expect it to be there for a while. You will see a bundle of wires entering the door protected by a white plastic piece. Remove the plastic piece by taking off the tape and set aside.

Next, remove the tape from the conduit running between the door and the car. You should be able to also remove the rubber portion from the door and the door jamb. You will notice a green plug on the outside, and a whte (I think) on the inside of the door. I may be wrong on the colors, but from here on out, the "green" one is on the outside and the "white" one is on the inside.

Separate the two plugs, and take a look at what you have. If you have no power options, you are happy, as you will have more room to work. The following steps should be performed very carefully, as ifyou mess up, your power options may not work, and it will be not only expensive but a pain to replace.

You will need a drill bit, the same size as one of the 4 wires you will pass though the plug (2 +tive and 2 -tive). Clear out some of the goo that is in the connectors, but not all of it. IF you look carefully, you will see that the plug has many provisions for more connectors. You will use 4 of these provisions as centerlines for the holes you are about to drill. Carefully select 4 matching provisions that are in a square pattern on both sides of the plug (green and white). Carefully drill through each side of the plug. The green plug is the biggest pain...there is a white section that will want to shift when you drill...hold it in place. Once you are done, you should have 4 matching passages to pass the wire though...deburr the holes.

Now, start by passing the pair of wires from the kickpane area through the hole in the door jamb. Give yourself PLENTY of extra wire to work with...a wire coat hanger will work well to pass the wire through. On the amplifier/crossover ends take the time to mark the woofer and tweeter wires, along with the right/left bias. Also mark the wires (using a sharpie) before you pass the wires through...this will save headaches when you go to hook it all up.

Next, pass the wire through the rubber grommet that plugs into the door jamb, then into the rubber conduit, and finally though the rubber sheath that mates to the green plug. Make sure that the wires lay flat and have not twisted.

Next, separate all wires from their matching pair. One at a time pass

 

that looks familiar....

 

I had it in my notepad. Sombody on here posted it.

 

ok how many feet should i buy to run my speaker wire to the front and rear doors. 4 door integra gsr. the amp will be in the back so i was think around 30-40 feet of wire should do it? maybe i am wrong. help. i am getting ready to order it tomarrow from sounddomain.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bigjon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had it in my notepad. Sombody on here posted it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know...it was me...