I am researching as much as I can before I proceed to buy a GSR swap for my eg hatch.
I have a couple of questions that I have not been able to get info on:

Is a JDM B18C1 the same to install as the USDM? I know that the JDM harness is useless. Is the USDM wire harness usable with the JDM? How is that taken care of?

Given that it is not really that simple to verify mileage and history on a JDM engine as it is on a USDM, shouldn't this mean that is is better (safer) to buy a USDM instead?

If I get a 99-00 B18C1, is it better to go with the OBDII ECU or the OBD1?

Thanks for the info and sorry if this is repetitive, I have tried to look for this info.

Anyone purchased a GSR 99-00 Swap from IAS? How much was it (complete swap)
V

 

The only real difference is power. JDM tends to have 10-20 more HP than USDM motors. And the block stamps just say B18C not B18C1

And also, going from OBDII to OBDI would be illegal on a 99-00 motor. :-P


Edit: IAS is expensive but they sell good clean swaps from what I hear. What year car do you have? If it's 92-95 I'd suggest getting the OBDI motor because it will be easier to wire in the long run. Unless of course your car is not wired for VTEC yet then it will be a bit more complicated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Happyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only real difference is power. JDM tends to have 10-20 more HP than USDM motors. And the block stamps just say B18C not B18C1

And also, going from OBDII to OBDI would be illegal on a 99-00 motor. :-P</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually the JDM counterparts are usually rated at 10hp more. They typically have .4 higher CR and get to run better gas too.

Also it's not illegal to convert an OBD2 engine to OBD1 as long as the car is OBD1. It's only illegal in so,e states to put an engine into a car that's older than the car itself, or to convert an OBD2 car to OBD1 because it will not communicate with emissions scanners any more this way, thus failing emissions and thus being illegal.

IMO I'd get a low mileage USDM B18C1. You know the exact mileage that way.

Don't always believe the "under 40K miles" claims that importers will tell you in order to sell their swaps.

 

Also here's a reply to a similiar question asked by a friend of mine on a local ATL message board. It if doesn't pertain 100% to you then please understand that it was meant for someone that might have asked a slightly different question:

First of all you are not limited to just an OBD1 B18C1.

Why?

Because even though the 1996-2001 Integras are OBD2, their engine harnesses PLUG RIGHT INTO your Civic's underhood chassis harnesses on each strut tower area.

This means you can find a low mileage 01 swap and keep it's newer distributor, injectors, etc.

Here's proof in pics that the OBD2 engine harness plugs right into the 1992-1995 Civic's underhood chassis harnesses. This is my 1998 (OBD2 originally) B18C5 in my car complete with it's 1998 engine harness PLUGGED into my 1992 Civic chassis harness.
[URL=http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid57/pb078eaf2eccba2ef8b75cd89878f3563/fc6c1064.jpg]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...4.jpg[/URL]

And don't forget:
[URL=http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid57/p1ef86473e16ce4c3cb2897620fe08c50/fc6c1062.jpg]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...2.jpg[/URL]

From there all you'd need to do is wire up the secondary butterfly **** and the knock sensor as shown here:



Picture courtesy of Jason "Katman" Kaplan.

So about that ECU ****. No need to convert to OBD2 at all. Simply ask the swap source if they can throw in an OBD1 ECU in with the swap and simply plug it right in.

If they don't have one then you will need to locate one and try to sell off yours to a swapper with a 99-00 Civic with a B18C1 in need of an ECU.

1-800-962-8922 is the number to Import Auto Salvage in N.C. They are one of the best swap sources and will throw in an OBD1 ECU with their OBD2 swaps if you ask for it and they have one.

Lastly what year is your car and what trim is it?

If you own any 1992 hatch or 1993-1995 VX or Si then the swap will not even need VTEC wiring, just the knock sensor and secondary butterflies. If you have a 1993-1995 DX or CX then it's only two extra wires for VTEC.

 

Thanks man.
I guess if the seller provides the VIN of the car the engine came from you can verify mileage.
V

 

Awsome diagrams, thanks.
I have a 93 DX hatch.
I am debating about doing it myself or simply get the swap, replace wp, clutch, flywheel, timing belt, then take it to a shop for the swap as I have never done this before.
V

 

and legitimacy!

-Bryan-

 

Harness from the JDM motor isn't useless......I should know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vrrodri &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks man.
I guess if the seller provides the VIN of the car the engine came from you can verify mileage.
V</TD></TR></TABLE>

With IAS they have the whole car and can show you pics of the cluster.



Hell since you're in FLA why not drive up and get the swap in person? I've been up to IAS like 6 times now and Randy and Larry Jr. are top-notch guys.

You have to see their facility to believe it!

As far as swapping it yourself, it's not that hard. Perhaps the T-Belt and waterpump are too much for now because of timing issues, but if you have a Helm (not Haynes or Chilton bullshit!) and are mechanically inclined that too might not be hard for you.

You'll save at least $500-$1,200.00 in labor costs (from a mechanic on the side to having a reputable shop do it all) and can put that towards mods or in your pocket instead.

If the engine has uner 50K miles I'd not even bother with chaning the T-Belt or waterpump anyways. Hell IAS can get the cars with under 20K in some cases too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apex i ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Harness from the JDM motor isn't useless......I should know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it's cut it is!

 

You are right, if the car is very low mileage.

THose guys are in NC, right? I am in Miami, I think that is way a log drive over 10 hours one way.

I guess if I had help, it would be no problem to do the swap in the garage.
Thanks again, great info I can use.
V

 

Then a USDM would be too.

The only way I'd buy a JDM motor now is if I bought a whole front clip. Usually the gauge cluster is included that way you know how much miles the motor has on it.

 

i hear JDM motors are usually beat on since they can only keep them for 40k miles. They like to get their moneys worth so they run em hard. Find a good USDM one that wasnt beat on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If it's cut it is!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im lost, so if the jdm wire harnes is the full harnes then its
actually good for something? Clear this up for me!

 

I still have a few opinions about jdm motors. First of all, i think its far mor likely that a type R motor was beaten on than a gsr. the type R car is basically a track car.

also, just because they only keep their cars for a short while doesn't = abused. I can see a kid rodding one out ALL the time, but i sure don't. It makes a lot more noise and burns a lot more fuel. Many people here don't keep their cars for much longer than 3-5 years, and they take just as good care as the next guy. they just sell it to a new user rather than a salvage yard. You could beat on a honda for a few years and trade it in and nobody would know the difference.

Also, my cousin lived in Japan for 2 years and she said they are far more likely to take car of their belongings than we are, Like no food alowed in cars, sometimes no outdoor shoes allowed. No sharing cars.

I believe that all the sitting around these engines have done is what's primarily bad for them. Some pics i've seen makes me hing some of those engines were sitting in hoodless cars too.

Lastly, don't forget about the lsd option with jdm engines. then again, if the engine had an lsd, i'd question the car's history more.

d

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d15dude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im lost, so if the jdm wire harnes is the full harnes then its
actually good for something? Clear this up for me! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes. Its actually good to work. Nothing to clear up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apex i ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes. Its actually good to work. Nothing to clear up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you can use it? Nothing to change? Just plugs right up? A
little more details would help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicflnum1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hear JDM motors are usually beat on since they can only keep them for 40k miles. They like to get their moneys worth so they run em hard. Find a good USDM one that wasnt beat on. </TD></TR></TABLE>


How many others agree with the statement above?

 

The only thing you may need to do is lengthen the actual power or ignition wire that runs up the the fuse box under the hood.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicflnum1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hear JDM motors are usually beat on since they can only keep them for 40k miles. They like to get their moneys worth so they run em hard. Find a good USDM one that wasnt beat on. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That is bullshit.

JDM engines can have well over 100K miles on them. All of this "Japanese gov't makes you sell your car at 40K miles" is 100% FALSE.

They can drive their cars to whatever miles they want to, and emissions crap isn't like importers make it out to be.

The one thing that does encourage Japanese people to get out of older cars is a tax structure that makes it almost cheaper to trade up to a newer car every 4 years or so.

There is a very very small market for used cars for this reason, so that's why guys will just hock a whole car off to a junkyard over there where it is then either shipped over seas as a whole or as a half cut.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That is bullshit.

JDM engines can have well over 100K miles on them. All of this "Japanese gov't makes you sell your car at 40K miles" is 100% FALSE.

They can drive their cars to whatever miles they want to, and emissions crap isn't like importers make it out to be.

The one thing that does encourage Japanese people to get out of older cars is a tax structure that makes it almost cheaper to trade up to a newer car every 4 years or so.

There is a very very small market for used cars for this reason, so that's why guys will just hock a whole car off to a junkyard over there where it is then either shipped over seas as a whole or as a half cut.</TD></TR></TABLE>

kool well thanx for clearing that up for me then.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG-cellent &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only thing you may need to do is lengthen the actual power or ignition wire that runs up the the fuse box under the hood.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like EG-Cellent says.

That's what I did. Been running on the same harness for the last 3-4 years. Not problems. Even using the same harness on my USDM 01 ITR motor.

 

If you have a 93 I would STRONGLY recommend find an OBDI b18c1.

This is what I did. At the time I had a 94 CX and I went to a local junk yard who got me a USDM b18c1 complete swap for $1800. It had 60k miles on it (verified by myself) and runs PERFECT. These guys just weren't aware of the market.

JDM engines are unverified (most) unless you get a complete clip. And YES the wiring harness will work, its just a tight fit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94si94cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a 93 I would STRONGLY recommend find an OBDI b18c1.

This is what I did. At the time I had a 94 CX and I went to a local junk yard who got me a USDM b18c1 complete swap for $1800. It had 60k miles on it (verified by myself) and runs PERFECT. These guys just weren't aware of the market.

JDM engines are unverified (most) unless you get a complete clip. And YES the wiring harness will work, its just a tight fit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not trying to be argumentative, but why would an OBD1 swap be better when the OBD2 one goes in just as easily and will 99% of the ti,me have half as many miles?

 

I'm reawlly not that familiar with an OBDII swap into the EH2 chasis.

From what I know (please correct me if I'm wrong Tom) but you have to use the OBDI p72 ECU for this swap. Most "complete swaps" would come with the respected ECU from the donor car. This would mean you would have to get another p72 ECU in addition to the one that came with the car. But like I said, I'm not real familiar with this particular swap and I could be wrong. But I do agree that most OBDII swaps would have lower mileage since they are newer, I just got fairly lucky with mine.