I did the Teg MC and Booster today. I finally bled all the lines and got the car driving. I noticed after a while it seemed to have less and less roll to it and it seemed slow and the pedal feel was nice and hard. Well while on the highway it for worse and worse and I started to see smoke. It seems that only the front brakes locked up. How can I fix this? Do I have too much pressure in my lines or something?

 

are you still using your stock brakes with this mod.. if so i think that the MC and booster off the teg is too much for those small stock calipers. I would suggest going back stock or get the teg calipers as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D16z6turbs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you still using your stock brakes with this mod.. if so i think that the MC and booster off the teg is too much for those small stock calipers. I would suggest going back stock or get the teg calipers as well</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bingo, you have to use the teg calipers with that mod . your stock calipers are to small. And if they are teg calipers there is a remote possibility that your calipers are bad. I've never seen 2 go at the same time, but anything is possible.

 

Sounds to me like your calipers seized. Follow the advice from those above and change them.

 

OMG you can't be serious. This was a major PITA to put in. I can't go not driving my car now. There has to be another way.

Also when I did it I would use a vacuum pump and I got it pumped up to the max on the front then tighten up the bleeder screw. Perhaps it had too much pressure in the line then when I did it I was too much and they seized.

But I can't use Teg calipers on my stock knuckles can I????

 

Weird, I am using the 91 Teg MC and booster in my 88 rex and that has not happened to me. I'm using my stock brakes too...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vap133 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Weird, I am using the 91 Teg MC and booster in my 88 rex and that has not happened to me. I'm using my stock brakes too... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think they are incorrect. I see no reason why you can't use your stock ones. I think I have too much pressure in my lines. I'm going to let it all out until there is no vacuum in the lines and then give it a try.

 

hows the pedal adjustment? push rod adjustment (if applicable) ?

 

Fine I guess.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlicedBread &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hows the pedal adjustment? push rod adjustment (if applicable) ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Seems to enguage a little higher but I think thats just cuz the booster is stronger.

 

ummm.. bleed the brakes as follows:

jack up all 4 corners.. secure on jack stands.. all 4...
remove wheels
remove brake fluid reservoir cap.
release parking brake cable.
sit inside car..
pump brake pedal 3-4 times then HOLD IT DOWN WITH YOUR FOOT!
2nd person loosen brake bleeder then tighten. pedal should go to floor. it's ok..
perform on each corner in the following corner:
right rear
left front
left rear
right front..

do this 2-3 times.. make sure there is still fluid in the reservoir before you move onto the next caliper.

 

My brake bleeding was fine, just possibly I left too much pressure in the line. If I had air in the lines they certainly wouldn't lock up.

 

the teg master cylinder and booster should work fine. my brother did this mod on his 91 STD hatchback. his brakes are fine.

possibly the master cylinder is broken? did you buy it new?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicDXdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the teg master cylinder and booster should work fine. my brother did this mod on his 91 STD hatchback. his brakes are fine.

possibly the master cylinder is broken? did you buy it new?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it was broken why would the brakes work at all?

 

My friend had this same problem on his rex... its your master cylinder. It is defective. We replaced every single part and it did it until we replaced the master cylinder. Then it worked fine.

Too bad the car got tboned a month later...

 

adjust the booster...look under the dash up where the brake pedal...there is a screw with a jam nut...play with that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89civicdx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">adjust the booster...look under the dash up where the brake pedal...there is a screw with a jam nut...play with that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That adjust the point where the brakes stop, but I don't see why that would be my problem.

 

I wouldn't adjust the booster. Unless you know its specific range of adjustment, you will essentially screw it up once it's out of spec. Honda brake boosters are really wierd because not all are the same and each specific type have different specs. I know a 15yr Honda-tech who knows about this and he said, you have to have the number of that brake booster and work within it's spec. If you don't know the spec, you risk ******* it for good.

 

I don't plan to adjust it, I don't see how that is the problem. MC perhaps.

Anyone have the specifics of bench bleeding?

 

spec doesn't mean jack after you start swaping parts

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=559701

 

But why would that preload matter? I mean that is my exact same problem ( the onethat the guy in the link had) but it all doesn't make sense to me. Please please please tell me I don't have to take off the ******* mc and booster. The booster was hard as hell to squeeze in there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FourthGenHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't plan to adjust it</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRRageD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know a 15yr Honda-tech who knows about this and he said, you have to have the number of that brake booster and work within it's spec. If you don't know the spec, you risk ******* it for good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well since you already made up your mind...I guess its not the booster ,so you WON'T have to take it off

 

Well I didn't want to adjust it because I thought that just made the engaugement spot different. But if it is preload that is another story...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=559701

Does anyone know what way I turn that thing to give me (I guess) less preload?

 

:::yawn:::

I bet you 100 bucks its what I said in an earlier post.

 

OK I just went outside and was able to push my car and it rolled just fine. So its probably exactly what Driven said and its the preload screw thing.

And MooreVTEC what did you say?

 

My friend had this same problem on his rex... its your master cylinder. It is defective. We replaced every single part and it did it until we replaced the master cylinder. Then it worked fine.

Too bad the car got tboned a month later...


Yes, the brakes will work fine after a few hours of the car being off... but they will lock up again in 5 minutes.