Butt Dyno = changing oil makes EP3 run better.
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Butt Dyno = changing oil makes EP3 run better.
This is one of the more stupid topics that I have posted, but I swear that my Ep3 has more power after the oil change than it did before. I switched to Mobil1 syn. 5w30 at 1800miles and then at 5000 I changed the oil putting the same Mobil1 5w30 syn. in.
Go for a test drive and the car seems to pull harder. Either that, or I need to recalibrate my butt-dyno.
BTW--the Spoon mag oil plug had a decent amount of shards on it. Glad I put it in @ 1800 miles. I can't imagine folks who run the recommended 5000 before the first change. Maybe the filter would have caught it, maybe not.
Oh, one last comment. The K series oil filter is a PITA to get at. I can't believe Honda let this go out the door in this mannor. They should have done a remote filter IMO.
Go for a test drive and the car seems to pull harder. Either that, or I need to recalibrate my butt-dyno.
BTW--the Spoon mag oil plug had a decent amount of shards on it. Glad I put it in @ 1800 miles. I can't imagine folks who run the recommended 5000 before the first change. Maybe the filter would have caught it, maybe not.
Oh, one last comment. The K series oil filter is a PITA to get at. I can't believe Honda let this go out the door in this mannor. They should have done a remote filter IMO.
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Re: Butt Dyno = changing oil makes EP3 run better. (Todd00)
Todd00,
Any sign of oil burning/eating? Seems like people have to add 1-2qts every 5K
miles until they hit 10K or so. Any sign of that with your synthetic?
I used to use Mobil1 Syn. on my WRX and really liked it - improved gas mileage,
although I don't know that I ever felt a change in the ol' butt dyno.
Any sign of oil burning/eating? Seems like people have to add 1-2qts every 5K
miles until they hit 10K or so. Any sign of that with your synthetic?
I used to use Mobil1 Syn. on my WRX and really liked it - improved gas mileage,
although I don't know that I ever felt a change in the ol' butt dyno.
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Re: Butt Dyno = changing oil makes EP3 run better. (andyep3)
im thinkin about changing my oil 2morrow...what do you guys recomend?? i wanna use something that will make my car better...i hear syn is good...but someone told me "its too early"...its my frst car so idk wtf is good to use....help a brotha out... 
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From: atlanta, ga, USA
I think the k20 filter is easier to get at than the one in the b-series.
you just lift the front of the car, turn the wheel all the way left, and then reach in through the wheel well. viola, easy as pie and you don't have oil dripping down your arm.
you just lift the front of the car, turn the wheel all the way left, and then reach in through the wheel well. viola, easy as pie and you don't have oil dripping down your arm.
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Re: (chunky)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chunky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the k20 filter is easier to get at than the one in the b-series.
you just lift the front of the car, turn the wheel all the way left, and then reach in through the wheel well. viola, easy as pie and you don't have oil dripping down your arm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That might be true, but now instead of oil dripping down your arm, you have it dripping all over your lower cross member. I thought honda placed the K series filter in a bad location also.
I can't wait till 10,000 miles; Then, i'll be switching over to Mobil1 synthetic on my Type S. Just 2,000 more miles to go. It takes quite of bit of time to rack up mileage on my car because i don't drive it that much.
Edit: I've had my car for way over a year now. I thought adding that would make what i said more understandable, since i said i have pretty low mileage.
you just lift the front of the car, turn the wheel all the way left, and then reach in through the wheel well. viola, easy as pie and you don't have oil dripping down your arm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That might be true, but now instead of oil dripping down your arm, you have it dripping all over your lower cross member. I thought honda placed the K series filter in a bad location also.
I can't wait till 10,000 miles; Then, i'll be switching over to Mobil1 synthetic on my Type S. Just 2,000 more miles to go. It takes quite of bit of time to rack up mileage on my car because i don't drive it that much.
Edit: I've had my car for way over a year now. I thought adding that would make what i said more understandable, since i said i have pretty low mileage.
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Re: (the JigGa mAn)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the JigGa mAn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so is it better to wait till the 10g miles to switch over to syn?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Until your piston rings have fully seated, it's not recommended to switch over to synthetic. With synthetic motor oil in your engine, your rings will still eventually seat, but it will take longer to do so. That's why i wait till 10,000 miles before switching over.
Edit: for grammar.
Until your piston rings have fully seated, it's not recommended to switch over to synthetic. With synthetic motor oil in your engine, your rings will still eventually seat, but it will take longer to do so. That's why i wait till 10,000 miles before switching over.
Edit: for grammar.
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Re: (sjracer)
Hey any of you guys ever read the site that tells you the best way to break in ur engine is to drive it really hard the first 20 miles to seat the rings. Like do a 5 min full throttle run. The guy who's site it is mods sport bikes and stuff and he even had pictures of the piston and ring that was beat on immediately vs the one that was broken in according to factory specs. Supposedly The one that was beat on was nice a perty and the other looked liek crap. I'm not saying either way is the right way but it's interesting to read, i forgot the site and lost my bookmarks but i'll try to find it for you guys.
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Re: (sjracer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Until your piston rings have fully seated, it's not recommended to switch over to synthetic. With synthetic motor oil in your engine, your rings will still eventually seat, but it will take longer to do so. That's why i wait till 10,000 miles before switching over.
Edit: for grammar.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Today's motors are pretty much ready to go as soon as you get them home from the dealer. The old myth about using synthetic on a new motor is not true. I have used it on first oil change on my last three cars (97 GSR, 00 ITR, 02 Si) and none of them have been down on power--at all.
I added a little bit of oil to the motor, but then again I autoxed it a few times.
Until your piston rings have fully seated, it's not recommended to switch over to synthetic. With synthetic motor oil in your engine, your rings will still eventually seat, but it will take longer to do so. That's why i wait till 10,000 miles before switching over.
Edit: for grammar.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Today's motors are pretty much ready to go as soon as you get them home from the dealer. The old myth about using synthetic on a new motor is not true. I have used it on first oil change on my last three cars (97 GSR, 00 ITR, 02 Si) and none of them have been down on power--at all.
I added a little bit of oil to the motor, but then again I autoxed it a few times.
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Re: (Todd00)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Today's motors are pretty much ready to go as soon as you get them home from the dealer. The old myth about using synthetic on a new motor is not true. I have used it on first oil change on my last three cars (97 GSR, 00 ITR, 02 Si) and none of them have been down on power--at all.
I added a little bit of oil to the motor, but then again I autoxed it a few times.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Todd00, i see where you are coming from.
On my Type S, before the 7,000 mile mark, i use to add 1/4 -1/2 a quart of oil every two weeks or so. And to tell you the truth, i didn't really drive my car that hard back then. Only now, after 8,000 miles, did my motor stop burning as much, or little to no oil at all.
I was talking to this mechanic i use to work with, and he said that Chevys use to come with synthetic motor oil in their motors directly from the manufacturer. The rings in their motors would take a very long time to seat, so when the customer brought their cars in, they would drain the synthetic and add regular motor oil. After the rings fully seated, then they would use synthetic again. I'm not sure if this was true or not, but that's what he told me.
Today's motors are pretty much ready to go as soon as you get them home from the dealer. The old myth about using synthetic on a new motor is not true. I have used it on first oil change on my last three cars (97 GSR, 00 ITR, 02 Si) and none of them have been down on power--at all.
I added a little bit of oil to the motor, but then again I autoxed it a few times.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Todd00, i see where you are coming from.
On my Type S, before the 7,000 mile mark, i use to add 1/4 -1/2 a quart of oil every two weeks or so. And to tell you the truth, i didn't really drive my car that hard back then. Only now, after 8,000 miles, did my motor stop burning as much, or little to no oil at all.
I was talking to this mechanic i use to work with, and he said that Chevys use to come with synthetic motor oil in their motors directly from the manufacturer. The rings in their motors would take a very long time to seat, so when the customer brought their cars in, they would drain the synthetic and add regular motor oil. After the rings fully seated, then they would use synthetic again. I'm not sure if this was true or not, but that's what he told me.
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Re: (sjracer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Todd00, i see where you are coming from.
On my Type S, before the 7,000 mile mark, i use to add 1/4 -1/2 a quart of oil every two weeks or so. And to tell you the truth, i didn't really drive my car that hard back then. Only now, after 8,000 miles, did my motor stop burning as much, or little to no oil at all.
I was talking to this mechanic i use to work with, and he said that Chevys use to come with synthetic motor oil in their motors directly from the manufacturer. The rings in their motors would take a very long time to seat, so when the customer brought their cars in, they would drain the synthetic and add regular motor oil. After the rings fully seated, then they would use synthetic again. I'm not sure if this was true or not, but that's what he told me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That much oil every two weeks or so is waaay more than I have ever added. I switched to full syn. at 1800 miles and have never looked back. On my last two B series motors I did so at 600 miles, and both dynoed a few HP more than average when stock around 2000 miles.
Other manufactures use syn straight from the factory.
http://www.mobil1.com/why/myths.jsp
Todd00, i see where you are coming from.
On my Type S, before the 7,000 mile mark, i use to add 1/4 -1/2 a quart of oil every two weeks or so. And to tell you the truth, i didn't really drive my car that hard back then. Only now, after 8,000 miles, did my motor stop burning as much, or little to no oil at all.
I was talking to this mechanic i use to work with, and he said that Chevys use to come with synthetic motor oil in their motors directly from the manufacturer. The rings in their motors would take a very long time to seat, so when the customer brought their cars in, they would drain the synthetic and add regular motor oil. After the rings fully seated, then they would use synthetic again. I'm not sure if this was true or not, but that's what he told me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That much oil every two weeks or so is waaay more than I have ever added. I switched to full syn. at 1800 miles and have never looked back. On my last two B series motors I did so at 600 miles, and both dynoed a few HP more than average when stock around 2000 miles.
Other manufactures use syn straight from the factory.
http://www.mobil1.com/why/myths.jsp
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Re: (Todd00)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That much oil every two weeks or so is waaay more than I have ever added. I switched to full syn. at 1800 miles and have never looked back. On my last two B series motors I did so at 600 miles, and both dynoed a few HP more than average when stock around 2000 miles.
Other manufactures use syn straight from the factory.
http://www.mobil1.com/why/myths.jsp </TD></TR></TABLE>
Todd00
Good read.
Actually, the amount of oil my motor consumed is quite normal for the K20A2. This was already discussed to death over at clubrsx. Oil consumption for the K20A2 is part of the motors characteristic.
Oh yeah, i figured i shouldn't switch over to synthetic motor oil until my motor stops burning the amount of oil it did at the beginning.
Good thread either way.
That much oil every two weeks or so is waaay more than I have ever added. I switched to full syn. at 1800 miles and have never looked back. On my last two B series motors I did so at 600 miles, and both dynoed a few HP more than average when stock around 2000 miles.
Other manufactures use syn straight from the factory.
http://www.mobil1.com/why/myths.jsp </TD></TR></TABLE>
Todd00
Good read.
Actually, the amount of oil my motor consumed is quite normal for the K20A2. This was already discussed to death over at clubrsx. Oil consumption for the K20A2 is part of the motors characteristic.
Oh yeah, i figured i shouldn't switch over to synthetic motor oil until my motor stops burning the amount of oil it did at the beginning.
Good thread either way.
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Re: Butt Dyno = changing oil makes EP3 run better. (Todd00)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is one of the more stupid topics that I have posted, but I swear that my Ep3 has more power after the oil change than it did before. I switched to Mobil1 syn. 5w30 at 1800miles and then at 5000 I changed the oil putting the same Mobil1 5w30 syn. in.
Go for a test drive and the car seems to pull harder. Either that, or I need to recalibrate my butt-dyno....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Todd, I'd attribute the increased feel of performance to the motor freeing up now that it has some miles on it. My EP also felt appreciably quicker the more miles it had on it, and I'm still using Honda's oil in it.
Go for a test drive and the car seems to pull harder. Either that, or I need to recalibrate my butt-dyno....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Todd, I'd attribute the increased feel of performance to the motor freeing up now that it has some miles on it. My EP also felt appreciably quicker the more miles it had on it, and I'm still using Honda's oil in it.
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Re: Butt Dyno = changing oil makes EP3 run better. (Todd00)
Does Acura put synthetic oil into your engines when you go in for an oil change?
I ask this because if I change my oil myself all the time, and 30,000 miles down the road, for whatever reason my engine explodes (no mis-shifts, just blows up). When I take it in to get warrantied, what happens if they say your engine blew up because you never changed the oil, and I can't prove that I've been changing it myself?
I ask this because if I change my oil myself all the time, and 30,000 miles down the road, for whatever reason my engine explodes (no mis-shifts, just blows up). When I take it in to get warrantied, what happens if they say your engine blew up because you never changed the oil, and I can't prove that I've been changing it myself?
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Re: Butt Dyno = changing oil makes EP3 run better. (Stumpy)
Stumpy, You do not need to tell them anything. When you pull the valve covers off these cars, and it is clean as it was new, then they know that the oul changes have been done. For people that do not change it on time, it gets black in there instead of the new aluminum color.
I baught my EP3 last week, i pulled the dipstick, and it was full. I now have 750 miles on the car, and it drank 1/2 a quart alredy. I have babied it over these 750 miles, has not seen over 4500 rpm since i baught it. I hope it slows down some. I traded in a 96 DX with 140k miles on it, and it didn't drink any oil at all. It kinda scared me when i saw how much it drank in 750 miles...
I baught my EP3 last week, i pulled the dipstick, and it was full. I now have 750 miles on the car, and it drank 1/2 a quart alredy. I have babied it over these 750 miles, has not seen over 4500 rpm since i baught it. I hope it slows down some. I traded in a 96 DX with 140k miles on it, and it didn't drink any oil at all. It kinda scared me when i saw how much it drank in 750 miles...
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