What sleeves do you use?!?
ok not sure if anybody saw my last post about my car being a mess well i ran a comp. test and well its not good.. Anyway.. I’m rebuilding the block and want to know who uses what and do they last? I’m going to be running 15-20psi t3-t40e on the street, and 25-30 on the track. this car won't be driven daily. its being completely stripped and rebuilt. Just looking for suggestions on to what sleeves to use. Pistons are going to be JE, and rods r going to be eagle, and headwork will to increase flow. I’ll be upgrading cams, valves, springs ,retainers, and so on.
so its ether.. Darton sleeves or eagle sleeves.. what to do?!?!
so its ether.. Darton sleeves or eagle sleeves.. what to do?!?!
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thanx for the fast feed back.. i'll be going darton..
HAY anybody know any shops on the east cost who will do the install of the sleeves?
ALSO from what i'm reading.. any shop could install them? or is it only a few who do it and do it well..
also if they are installed wrong.. what are signs of this?
i was reading a post about dude who got his block build w/ GE sleeves, and he turned it over and that was it.. had oil and coolant all over place..
is that common w/ BAD sleeve jobs?
HAY anybody know any shops on the east cost who will do the install of the sleeves?
ALSO from what i'm reading.. any shop could install them? or is it only a few who do it and do it well..
also if they are installed wrong.. what are signs of this?
i was reading a post about dude who got his block build w/ GE sleeves, and he turned it over and that was it.. had oil and coolant all over place..
is that common w/ BAD sleeve jobs?
i am also on the east coast and i'd rather send mine right to darton.
yes when you buy the sleeves from them they will also send you DETAILED instrucions on how to install them, it requires a CNC machine, please keep us posted. especialy me because we are in the same area and i am curious to see if you get someone local to do it.
P.S. i know you from RISR & HSD
yes when you buy the sleeves from them they will also send you DETAILED instrucions on how to install them, it requires a CNC machine, please keep us posted. especialy me because we are in the same area and i am curious to see if you get someone local to do it.
P.S. i know you from RISR & HSD
Only the best. . . . Darton.
93lscivic does a bad *** job on the East coast with Fuzion .
Check him out , they use CNC to put them in . Theres a post around here for pics of one of DC2R714's and mine will prob be up this week .
93lscivic does a bad *** job on the East coast with Fuzion .
Check him out , they use CNC to put them in . Theres a post around here for pics of one of DC2R714's and mine will prob be up this week .
I just got my block back from darton w/sleeves installed and it looks fantastic! they did a good job on every little detail. Everybody I called told me that they just send the block out to darton so I might as well do it myself and save me some money. It was well worth it and they did a great job sending it back as well. Just don't forget the main caps and bolts
RS does awesome work. The shop were my work is done used these sleeves and they are very good quality, never had anyone come back and complain about leakage or dropping. Exospeed also has their own sleeves and I believe they are in accordance with RS but dont quote me on that..
Just my suggestion, if you are going to run the Eagle Specialties rods, do the rod bolt upgrade. It is only an additional $100 and it is great peace of mind. Also, we can sleeve your block for you. Please give us a call (909) 592 - 4311 and speak with one of our reps. about your motor options. Thanks
Maybe, but I have seen all-motor cars spit thre rods out due to the standard bolt supplied in the eagles. If everything was perfect, then they will hold up, but I just hate to see someone waste a good block, pistons and rods plus machine work because they didn't do a $100 upgrade!
yea but thats with anything though, i have seen alot of GE blocks broken in the last few weeks. But you knwo as well as i do theres moer to the story, as per Eagle they say the bolts must be 28ft lbs on the dot, any more they will break garunteed. most people HEMAN thme
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILLA_00LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ryan where u from and what do u drive? i'll deff let u know whats up when i get all the details worked out w/ my sponsor..
later</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm from the Fall River area. I drive a 4dr golf with nitrous ect. I've seen you on the forums. And i've been out with a bunch of RISR's street racing in the past few years.
Most def keep me posted cuz i am in the sam boat. except i dont have a sponsor
. whos yours?
later</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm from the Fall River area. I drive a 4dr golf with nitrous ect. I've seen you on the forums. And i've been out with a bunch of RISR's street racing in the past few years.
Most def keep me posted cuz i am in the sam boat. except i dont have a sponsor
. whos yours?
HeMan........
That is the truth. Some people think the tighter they are, the better, but that is not the case with rod bolts. Once the bolt stretches too much the grain structure of the bolts is pulled apart ( picture it like paper ripping ) and then there is no strength left in the material. This causes the bolt to fail far from it's maximum fatigue life cycle prediction. The only way to install the bolts, in my opinion, is with a stretch gauge. The true measure of clamping force!
That is the truth. Some people think the tighter they are, the better, but that is not the case with rod bolts. Once the bolt stretches too much the grain structure of the bolts is pulled apart ( picture it like paper ripping ) and then there is no strength left in the material. This causes the bolt to fail far from it's maximum fatigue life cycle prediction. The only way to install the bolts, in my opinion, is with a stretch gauge. The true measure of clamping force!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoldenEagleMfg.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HeMan........
That is the truth. Some people think the tighter they are, the better, but that is not the case with rod bolts. Once the bolt stretches too much the grain structure of the bolts is pulled apart ( picture it like paper ripping ) and then there is no strength left in the material. This causes the bolt to fail far from it's maximum fatigue life cycle prediction. The only way to install the bolts, in my opinion, is with a stretch gauge. The true measure of clamping force!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is the truth. Some people think the tighter they are, the better, but that is not the case with rod bolts. Once the bolt stretches too much the grain structure of the bolts is pulled apart ( picture it like paper ripping ) and then there is no strength left in the material. This causes the bolt to fail far from it's maximum fatigue life cycle prediction. The only way to install the bolts, in my opinion, is with a stretch gauge. The true measure of clamping force!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoldenEagleMfg.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HeMan........
That is the truth. Some people think the tighter they are, the better, but that is not the case with rod bolts. Once the bolt stretches too much the grain structure of the bolts is pulled apart ( picture it like paper ripping ) and then there is no strength left in the material. This causes the bolt to fail far from it's maximum fatigue life cycle prediction. The only way to install the bolts, in my opinion, is with a stretch gauge. The true measure of clamping force!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im still wondering how you stretch gauge head studs
As far as sleeving on East Coast. You can contact me, I do Dartons.
Oh yeah....and of course these are found in my personal motor as well.
That is the truth. Some people think the tighter they are, the better, but that is not the case with rod bolts. Once the bolt stretches too much the grain structure of the bolts is pulled apart ( picture it like paper ripping ) and then there is no strength left in the material. This causes the bolt to fail far from it's maximum fatigue life cycle prediction. The only way to install the bolts, in my opinion, is with a stretch gauge. The true measure of clamping force!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Im still wondering how you stretch gauge head studs
As far as sleeving on East Coast. You can contact me, I do Dartons.
Oh yeah....and of course these are found in my personal motor as well.


