Just curious to know what you guys are running. I'm wanting to make around 250 at the wheels with my new setup.
h22 block sleeved
h23 knife-edged crank
carrillo forged rods
wiseco 90mm 14:1 pistons
port and polished head
milled 20thou
fererra stainless valves, dual valvesprings, and titanium retainers
3-angle valve job
Crower stage 3's
Custom side exit stainless header
STR tb, and ported stock intake manifold
hondata s200

will be ready in 2-4 weeks depending on arrival time of some parts

 

should be sweet. can't wait to see the results.

 

Hmmm impressive build up. Please share when completed. What kinda fuel will you be using? Set-up and type?

 

Dynoed last year @ 229.6 WHP 175 TQ
Changes have been made and it is making the same power, but slightly de-tuned (at the moment). Hopefully I can get more time on the dyno and get closer to 240 WHP. BTW this is on 91 octane 12/1 comp.

Engine Block:
'93 H22a
Custom 98mm Crank (Balanced and nitrited)
Darton sleeves
Crower Pro-billet rods
Custom 12/1 compression 89mm JE pistons
Prodrive oil pump
Unorthodox Racing crank pulley
manual timing belt tensioner conversion
Power industries timing belt

Cylinder head:
Ported and polished by Collective Racing
Web Cams custom camshafts
Web Cams springs and Titainium retainers
SI industries Rev series valves
Euro Type R manifold conversion
Hondata intake manifold gasket
Erick's Racing 70-68mm Throttle body
RC engineering 440cc Fuel injectors
B&M fuel pressure riser
Parker liquid fuel Guage
STR cam seal
STR cam gears
SMSP 4-1 header (prototype)
ARP head studs
89mm bore Cometic Head gasket

 

just in case some of you guys didnt know what 90mm bore looks like
heres a pic of my s e c r e t block going in my car a few weeks

and this is darton race sleeves oh yeh and my Endyn pistons


compare this is benson sleeves for 87.5mm in one of my old blocks

 

wow, cylinders aren't even close together...

 

I had a couple of 90mm bored H22s. They don't last long.

 

What about it doesnt last long? Were they FI or NA, I couldnt imagine using a 90mm with FI..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a couple of 90mm bored H22s. They don't last long.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I'm going 90mm because that's what jeremy from L'natural told me I should use. He was going to sell me a block with these same specs, but I took too long so he sold it to someone else.
right now I'm using C12 JP race fuel

 

I am running 90mm also

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Robb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about it doesnt last long? Were they FI or NA, I couldnt imagine using a 90mm with FI..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

First, all I have to say is cylinder distortion can occure easily. Both engines were NA. The head gaskets also don't last long. My engines were street engines, so it may be a different case if they are track only.

 

am running a sce coper head gasket with my head O-ringed
so i hope my head gasket wont keep blowing
mine is for a FI am looking for 400+whp with this bore, maybe 500whp if a lucky

 

ok ummm i dont want to call b.s on this but mabye someone else will ......14:1????and shaved 20 thou...id like to no your secret to this high of compression ...is it strip only or is this for street ....dont want to be a dick or anything ..just curious

 

it's full race

 

Mine...I have a custom ecu program but I need to fine tune on the dyno before I arrive with some final digits..I'm hoping for 240whp..

Intake
AEM CAI 2.75" w/ K&N Cone Filter
64mm TB, IM match ported to 64mm
Hondata IM Gasket

Fuel and Ignition
AEM FPR
RC 370cc injectors
MSD 6A Ignition Control System
MSD Blaster 2 coil
TechTom P72 (like a hondata)
Apex'i V-AFC (untuned)

Head
H22A1 head ported by Top Power Racing
Valves deshrouded to 89mm
Head milled 10 thousandths
Crower Stage 3 cams
Skunk2 cam gears
Jun Valvesprings
Jun Titanium Retainers

Block
H22A4 Block
89mm Iron Sleeves
H22A4 stock crank
H22A4 crank 55mm mains
Crower ProBillet H22A I-Beam Rods
ENDYN Rollerwave 11.89:1 pistons and rings
Stock Head Gasket bored to 89mm
Prodrive oil pump gears
Power Enterprise Super Strong Timing Belt
H23 manual tensioner
Removed A/C system

Exhaust
Trust/Greddy SS Header
Random Technologies High Flow Cat
Greddy Power Extreme 2.5" catback

Drivetrain
Clutchmasters Ultralight Flywheel
Clutchmasters stage 3 clutch
Accord Euro-R Transmission

 

hey satan, i think that 240 is a little high expectation with that setup, but good luck. when are you going to the dyno?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kwik93si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey satan, i think that 240 is a little high expectation with that setup, but good luck. when are you going to the dyno?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's probably a little high but hey that's what goals are for... to hit those numbers I really need a better Intake Manifold, No cat, and disconnected balancer shafts.

Unfortunately I also have to run 94 octane or else I would slam that timing and run race fuel

 

My setup is very simple. this is just a starter motor for the time beeing. i will build a full race motor after this current engine is maxed out. but by the looks of it. i still have alot more to go. so it wont be for awhile.

2001 h22a accord euro R motor and tranny.
50mm twm Individual throtle bodies
titanium retainers and stiffer valve springs
skunk stage 2 cams
custom 4-1 header with merge collector
clutch masters twin disc clutch
p72 reprogrammed ecu with vafc
stock compression

the car dynoed at 228whp with 160 lbs tq. redline is 9500 rpm

this is a full body street car. aprox weight is 2200 lbs. with all glass. no cutting to the body what so ever. no lexan.


best 60 foot. 1.626
best 1/8 mile 7.44
highest mph 1/8 94.4
lowest et 11.82
highest mph 1/4 115.7

fastest N/A street car in the country

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LuckyRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My setup is very simple. this is just a starter motor for the time beeing. i will build a full race motor after this current engine is maxed out. but by the looks of it. i still have alot more to go. so it wont be for awhile.

2001 h22a accord euro R motor and tranny.
50mm twm Individual throtle bodies
titanium retainers and stiffer valve springs
skunk stage 2 cams
custom 4-1 header with merge collector
clutch masters twin disc clutch
p72 reprogrammed ecu with vafc
stock compression

the car dynoed at 228whp with 160 lbs tq. redline is 9500 rpm

this is a full body street car. aprox weight is 2200 lbs. with all glass. no cutting to the body what so ever. no lexan.


best 60 foot. 1.626
best 1/8 mile 7.44
highest mph 1/8 94.4
lowest et 11.82
highest mph 1/4 115.7

fastest N/A street car in the country</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's a crazy setup man...can't wait to see what my new setup will run.
h22 block sleeved
h23 knife-edged crank
carrillo forged rods
wiseco 90mm 14:1 pistons
port and polished head
milled 20thou
fererra stainless valves, dual valvesprings, and titanium retainers
3-angle valve job
Crower stage 3's
Custom side exit stainless 4-1 header
STR tb, and ported stock intake manifold
hondata s200

 

street car my ***! ! !


since when do street cars come with 1 gallon fuel cells.
where do you daily drive???? from one gas station to the other.
this car hasnt seen the streets since you and jerry tried to race.

 

dam luckymike das some good #s for stock motor and individuals.


i likes alot

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My setup is very simple. this is just a starter motor for the time beeing. i will build a full race motor after this current engine is maxed out. but by the looks of it. i still have alot more to go. so it wont be for awhile.
2001 h22a accord euro R motor and tranny.
50mm twm Individual throtle bodies
titanium retainers and stiffer valve springs
skunk stage 2 cams
custom 4-1 header with merge collector
clutch masters twin disc clutch
p72 reprogrammed ecu with vafc
stock compression

the car dynoed at 228whp with 160 lbs tq. redline is 9500 rpm

this is a full body street car. aprox weight is 2200 lbs. with all glass. no cutting to the body what so ever. no lexan.


best 60 foot. 1.626
best 1/8 mile 7.44
highest mph 1/8 94.4
lowest et 11.82
highest mph 1/4 115.7

fastest N/A street car in the country</TD></TR></TABLE>

Man...I really wanna see the dyno sheet!.....just bought some Skunk stage 2's. You make power all the way to 9500???

That gives me hope to make power like those damn rev-happy B-series

Mark

 

first of all this is not lucky mike. thats my friend, my name is max. secondly what do you know about my street car anyways. if i have someone drive the car to the track are you going to line up with it for money?? if not dont talk about things you know nothing about. This really shows how much you know. i have raced 2 events since that day your reffering to. street car.. all glass. no cutting. registered and street driveable anywhere. not a cut up half race car. with lexan, and a ***** out motor. why dont you keep quite and have a beer or 2.

btw mark the car doesnt make power all the way to 9500. i said thats where the redline is. it peaks at about 9 grand. which is still good in my opinion. good luck man. keep us posted on your results

 

Actually LuckyRacing is smart as hell and I am belief of having an 11 second car and still being full street.

Don't claim bull **** when you don't know wtf you're talking about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">btw mark the car doesnt make power all the way to 9500. i said thats where the redline is. it peaks at about 9 grand. which is still good in my opinion. good luck man. keep us posted on your results</TD></TR></TABLE>


Either way..Thats still sounds really awesome for the H22