OK if I ever decide to make more mods to my car besides my Shitbox, I have decided on what they would be. Most people that know me or my posts will know I am aiming to have a daily driver that will not require constant tweaking but can put up decent improvements over stock on any kind of course it sees. You guys also know I'm not a big fan of wish lists, but this is not a wish. I could do this any time if I felt like it but I just don't, right now.

$$ Mods:
Comptech Icebox & Filter (already done)
Toda Spec A's
Cam Gears
V-AFC
Spoon 4-2-1 Header

Free Mods:
Advance Timing
Remove Spare Tire (already done)
disconnect power steering

For any FAQs that might arise (I doubt it)

I like the suspension just the way it is. Suspension mods must be done right and that's pretty expensive.

Ditto for the wheels and tires.

Why no exhaust? I like the stock one. It's a great system. But, I also haven't done enough research to make a decision. It's not a high priority right now, and I like stealth.

I have some rough ideas about what kind of power and times I could come up with from each mod, but people almost always take issue with them and flame the owner of the car over a 1 or 2whp difference. So I'll leave it to you guys to speculate on power gains, but I would think at least 15whp over my present figure, with no tuning whatsover - that's not including the free mods which are like 4 or 5whp each.



[Modified by Ross1013, 12:52 AM 8/1/2001]

 

Sounds good, you might to consider boreing out your throttle body.

 

my car is leased. I'm not doing anything I can't undo quickly.

 

Sounds Like a plan

 

Get a better header like a SMS or Hitech. Your exhaust is gonna be too restrictive you're gonna need a free flow cat or test pipe along with a 2.5" test pipe, everything else looks good.

 

Any guess to much much money this is going to cost, and *ruffly* how much hp???

 

..don't leave out a lightened flywheel...thats an item always good to have whether you have built or stock engine. And get a good set of tires - security that ensures you and the road stay in contact...unless you're a shitty driver


[Modified by Katman, 7:40 PM 7/31/2001]

 

Slighty OT but... Do you guys get a full sized spare tire or a space saver???

Sam

P.S Ross

 

well katman the lightweight flywheel is a good idea but dont leave the man hanging without letting him know what type would be best for his application...

personally from the conclusions of my research the last kinda flywheel you want is an aluminum so stay away from those, get chromoly, then again you own a honda and getting to the transmission is a damn obstical itself, last I checked the spoon header was a one peice so you would have to get the header unbolted to clear your lower front tie bar and to drop your axles/driveshafts.

there may possibly be another way around it but its a lot nicer to work with more/less of your parts out of the way when dealing with the transmission...

if your looking at clutches as well I will recomend the toda or the exedy clutch if you plan on upgrading your revs past 9000. other than that a clutchmasters stage 3 is a very very good clutch if you can stand to drive 2000 miles street to wear the sonnova bitch in.

combined with a lightweight flywheel and a new clutch your car will feel a bit torque-ier and a tad more responsive.

but let it be known a clutch will run you about 330-526 bucks taxed and shipped...

coximport is selling the exedy organic right now for 330, i was gonna go for that but the clutchmasters stage 3 was a little grippier, a tad more available (clutchmasters is 10 min away from my house) but the price was 200 dollars more being I needed a clutch to reinstall in my car that day.

the fidanza flywheel has gotten good reviews from most honda owners even though its an aluminum peice, the toda is a semi chromoly/aluminum product and probably about 450 bucks as well as a jun lightweight, steer away from the ultra lightweight as im not as sure for the type r's but the usdm starter motors on b16's get thier teeth busted off them by those.

but I am only providing this information for you be it you are actually considering transmission upgrade advice, its still about a 1200 dollar investment be it I doubt you will be doing your own labor... (everyone who has dough to purchase parts, arent always greasemonkeys... no offense)

but thats all I can think about, your r is most likely your daily driver so im not gonna recomend any mild headwork for you not that it will **** up the car or void warranty being its internal work but why pay 1100 bucks for some head work if your gonna give the car back for someone else to enjoy right.

Well thats my peice on this one. Good luck man.

 

Get a Jackson Racing S/C. THey are as reliable as u can get.

 

errr ok..

lighten your stock flywheel to save money.
Drop it down to about 12-13lbs.
I had one and love it....before my car got stolen last year.

If you wanna go with an aftermarket f.wheel...look around and see what brand you wanna go wiff. I hear you should stay away from the aftermarket f.wheels that have a lot of swiss cheese holes in them...for fear of stress cracks.

Again...I say get your stock wheel lightened

 

The Toda flywheel is full chromoly. There is no such thing as a chromoly/aluminum flywheel.

From http://www.todaracing.com
TODA flywheels are produced from 100% chrome-moly steel, not aluminum.

 

WRONG... toda's flywheel is now an aluminum type material that is as strong as chromoly, read up before you try to smack me down... and dont make me have to embarass you by redirecting you to the proof of such...
http://www.godspeed-motorsports.com you can ask dan if I am bullshiting you kthx. get off your soapbox.

oh btw its been a while since toda has updated there site... speak to someone who actually stock's thier parts and knows about them.


[Modified by 137, 8:50 PM 7/31/2001]

 

Now, now, now, no need to get your panties in a bunch. The TODA flywheel is fully chromoly, if that site says it's aluminum then they're mistaken. Just to verify I called over there and confirmed that's it's "100% chromoly steel, no aluminum what so ever". If you'd like to confirm my finding, call them or e-mail them directly, they should know better than anyone else. And if you look at the main TODA site, you'd see that it was updated earlier this month.


[Modified by Blade, 10:26 PM 7/31/2001]

 

throw an exhaust system on there..find a muffler you like,and then go to a muffler shop that is retable and have them build you a 2.5" piping w/ test pipe..your stock oem pipe is to restrictive..I did a 2.5" custom piping w/test pipe ,and a 2.5" outlet ,and inlet magna flow straight thru exhaust , and added a header system..trust me you'll feel a difference on your mid and high end pull..

 

with the new exhaust setup and header added..i will try to beat my 14.3 time last time i ran, it just about stock (aem intake,555R,and full interior) wit the time i last hitted plus it was a not so good track elevation and above sea level..i will try to break 13s all motor wit the new exhaust setup and header system at battle of imports this 11th and 12th and a way way better track then last time...

 

Thanks for all the posts guys. As to how much power, someone asked, Id say about 185 to the wheels without dyno tuning. After that, probably a little more. Does that sound about right? (I'm already prob. in the neighborhood of 7-8hp over stock)

As for exhausts, anyone know how much SMSP is charging for his? I'm too lazy to do a search right now it's 4 am. since he's going to be an hour away from my school, I'd take a long hard look at that if I were upgrading that part.

 

yeah stock lightened flywheel wil surely save you money....some friends of mine work at acura and they throw out alot of flywheels that i believe are used yet perfect condition....perfect to lighten

 

Ask Tom at Portflow about lightening a stock flywheel.

Ask him if he has any experience with them. (hint hint)

lighten stock flywheel
good flywheel(toda/comptech/spoon/cm, etc.)

 

yeah get a toda flywheel, jun or sone sort..i recomend toda.

 

If you lighten your flywheel you will make some more horse power but your torque should drop, you have to sit back and think is it really worth doing, what application and what kind of racing you are going to be doing.

 

Yeah let me stop this flywheel discussion right here. I want something a little bit different than most ITRs on here, which are built up to achieve 200 NA whp at 10,000rpm. I want something that makes the car quicker, not quirkier. If I wasn't leasing it and had another car, maybe a flywheel/clutch replacement would be on order. But I do still have to drive it long distances, drive it to and from track days, etc etc.

Drivability is key so I am looking to make mods that improve the low-and mid-range power as opposed to ultimate top end - hence the 4-2-1 header instead of a 4-1, and the cam gears, which should increase mid-range pull substantially, pretty handy for when I don't want to rev to 7K to pass someone on the highway. If I make all the above mods, including the free ones, I will be close to that magic number that everyone wants, only I won't be setting my VTEC at 7000rpms or running boost to do it. For someone who wants to preserve the spirit of the ITR - streetable track car - this seemed like the best way to go.

 

to me, it's sounds like you're another one of those guys trying to register http://www.thinkingaboutmodifyingmyintegra.com

and you leased your car? going to drop cams in a leased car??? man, you'll be loosing money all over the place. can you do the install yourself??? how long is your lease? going to take the buy option at the end??? or lease a Type S?



D

 

wow, you are the man!!! i forgot that one in my plan...

D


[Modified by D, 2:28 PM 8/1/2001]

 

Heh D I assume this post didn't make you laugh as much as some of my other ones.

As far as buying at the end of the lease - highly likely, unless there is an RSX-R. that's why I would go with A's instead of B's.

Wrenching on my own **** - learning. I grew up in a family and neighborhood where cars are A to B transportation, nothing more.

As far as removing the spare tire - I don't consider it a big deal but I felt like it had to be in there, so people wouldn't waste their time telling me to do it.

If you take a closer look you will notice some consistency and realism in what I am saying. Not like the douchebags who come on and say "I want 200whp, what can I do?" or ask "Can I use JDM header with DragIII?" I want my car to be able to kick some *** without making it a garage queen/drag *****.