b16 wont rev past 7200, no codes
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 808
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From: Eastern Shore, Maryland, usa
the computer is not throwing any codes, im not sure if vtec is working or not. i just put the engine in this week.
You probably have a automatic ecu. Take those four screws off the lid of your ecu and check for a AT or M stamped on one of the circuit boards you can't miss it. And considering that all 4 gen tachs are always off after 4000 grand you might just have a automatic ecu.
dont u feel and heard a different note on the engine noise after 5000 rpms??
if no, and u cant tell , u more likely dont have vtec working..
or amybe u got a Auto ecu.... in wich , still supposed to redline @ 8200 since its still a B16
if no, and u cant tell , u more likely dont have vtec working..
or amybe u got a Auto ecu.... in wich , still supposed to redline @ 8200 since its still a B16
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Automatic b16a motors are no different than a manual b16. but yes the ecu's are different. maybe you have the wires crossed on your vtec selunoid or your oil is low or you have an automatic ecu. that's what you should be looking at right now. and btw i have an automatic b16 w/ 5-spd usdm s1 trans. their intake manifolds suck!
bullshit autos are not different... ever compared the cams or noticed the lack of inner valvesprings? or how about the fact that the motor is rated at 155hp. but no, they aren't different are they?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RexB16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bullshit autos are not different... ever compared the cams or noticed the lack of inner valvesprings? or how about the fact that the motor is rated at 155hp. but no, they aren't different are they?</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha I was just about to say that.
If you have no vtec, no codes and 7200 redline. Sounds like your motor is still cold. When its cold thats what happens. Wait for it to warm up before redlining the snot out of it.
haha I was just about to say that.
If you have no vtec, no codes and 7200 redline. Sounds like your motor is still cold. When its cold thats what happens. Wait for it to warm up before redlining the snot out of it.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 808
Likes: 0
From: Eastern Shore, Maryland, usa
sorry for the delayed responce but ive been workin alot, i finally double checked everything and decided to take it out for a spin to see if it was still cutting out at 7200 and it worked just fine. vtec is engaging and i took it up to about 8 grand. i suppose it just didnt warm up enough just idleing in the garage. thanks for all the responces
I wondered the same thing a while back and got these responses:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=291992
BTW, I got a new knock sensor, but still haven't put it in. I'm too lazy to take the intake manifold off to do it
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=291992
BTW, I got a new knock sensor, but still haven't put it in. I'm too lazy to take the intake manifold off to do it
you can check you ecu or even the out side can tell you that by the barcodes but to be obsolutely sure check the inside of the ecu, but just out of curiousity... does your speedo work. Cause i didn't get the speedometer cable for my swap so my vtec didn't work right and cut off early like your expierencing now and as soon as i put that in everything worked just they way it should.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kincaidcrxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't have to take off the manifold to replace knock sensor. 27mm deep well thin wall socket will do the trick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, there's no way I can get to it from underneath and I can't even get a wrench in from the top, let alone a long socket.
Well, there's no way I can get to it from underneath and I can't even get a wrench in from the top, let alone a long socket.
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