Heres the Problem....The engine doesn't start....It turns over and fuel is being delivered into the engine BUT no Spark!! ....I tryed the distributor on another B16a and it Worked...so the distributor isn't bad!!.....So What could be causing this?? Thanx in Advance!

 

have you tried a different ecu?

 

is it a obd1 dissy with a obd 0 computer? wirig off, give us some more info on your swap

 

grounds, starter?

 

turns over?? take back what i said

 

Are you *sure* you're getting fuel? Because it will do exactly what you describe if your main relay is fubar (very common problem) or your fuel pump is borked.

 

Sorry i forgot to mention that its a ODB 0 ecu and dizzy....I also didnt mention that the car ran before this happened but the car would die when you put it in nuetral when it was at croasing speeds....also no check engine lights!

AND yes there is fuel--after you crank the engine you can smell the fuel in the cylinder head.

 

could it also be the ignition switch??

 

possibly coil gone bad as well

 

you are sure you're not getting spark? check for steady (unblinking) ecu code, then check cam timing and do a compression test.

 

i would bet you have a timing issue.

 

Weird i have the same problem with my b16 swap

 

Can someone plz show me where the ignition switch is located and how it looks like ....Thanx!!

 

maybe you Distributor is out 180*

 

have you tried different spark plug wires?

 

Sounds like a wiring issue to me. I had the same problem with my swap. Go over all the simple stuff like restting the ECU and making sure that all the plugs @ the ECU are in tight. I know it sounds dumb but that was another reason why my swap wouldnt run... Um also try resetting your ECU and the same time you do that unplug the plug that is on the dizzy, for some reason this does something, I dont know what, but My car ran and stopped throwing code 4 when I did.

keep us updated.

Blaze

 

hhmmm....alright Blaze I'll try that its worth a shot!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperJay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe you Distributor is out 180*</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is not possible, it can only key in one way.

 

Are you sure it isn't possible? The rotor may only key one way, but if the dist. is off the engine and it is spun from the camshaft side 180*? this is possible isn't it?

 

i have had that problem on 5 swaps and its always distributor wiring.It will plug right in but some wires from the harness will go to one thing on the distributor and a totally different thing at the ecu.U can get a wiring diagram or ecu pinout and try to figure out wut goes where and match up the correct wires or youve got two other options:u can take a d series distributor innards and swap them into the b series distributor,or you can just use a d series distributornly 1 bolt lines up and youve got to cut 1 "ear" off of it so it wont hit the vtec solinoid but youre car WILL run and drive normal,i did it on my brothers ls/vtec crx just because all of our b series distributors were in storage and he needed to get to work.We never changed it cuz it ran so well,im not sayin this is the "proper" way to do it but we smoked an audi TT and a '00 stang GT so apparently it works.Good luck!!

 

try checking the main relay.. under your dash/steering wheel area! i had that prob on my ZC SOHC! GOOD LUCK!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fearless_dsm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have had that problem on 5 swaps and its always distributor wiring.It will plug right in but some wires from the harness will go to one thing on the distributor and a totally different thing at the ecu.U can get a wiring diagram or ecu pinout and try to figure out wut goes where and match up the correct wires or youve got two other options:u can take a d series distributor innards and swap them into the b series distributor,or you can just use a d series distributornly 1 bolt lines up and youve got to cut 1 "ear" off of it so it wont hit the vtec solinoid but youre car WILL run and drive normal,i did it on my brothers ls/vtec crx just because all of our b series distributors were in storage and he needed to get to work.We never changed it cuz it ran so well,im not sayin this is the "proper" way to do it but we smoked an audi TT and a '00 stang GT so apparently it works.Good luck!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

My distributor works on another B16 car that I tryed not too long ago....AND I am GETTING POWER on the (+)side of the distributor and the (-)side....AND It did run before just fine but sometimes died when the car was in nuetral and while it was driving???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like a wiring issue to me. I had the same problem with my swap. Go over all the simple stuff like restting the ECU and making sure that all the plugs @ the ECU are in tight. I know it sounds dumb but that was another reason why my swap wouldnt run... Um also try resetting your ECU and the same time you do that unplug the plug that is on the dizzy, for some reason this does something, I dont know what, but My car ran and stopped throwing code 4 when I did.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do I reset a B16 ECU on my crx???--

 

bump

 

I have a B17A1 also. I just had the same problem. The coil should have between 12-22 ohms of resistance. Test yor coil 1st. Make sur your resistance falls in this window. This is probably your problem.