B20VTEC with 11:1 compression, complete Type R head, cam gears, Hondata...all this to be built right and dyno'd.

I have yet to see dyno charts with about 11:1 compression. I'm not looking for any real specific numbers, I'm just interested in ballpark figures right now.

Would this come close to 140lb./ft. of tq.? I'm not too concerned with hp.

 

I`m 11.5:1 at 210/153. IM me with questions...







Modified by vtecvoodoo at 11:02 AM 7/11/2003

 

Again....come one guys.

I'm not really trying to be an ******* here, but.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Again....come one guys.

I'm not really trying to be an ******* here, but.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
but come one what? I spent a god damn hour searching for b20 stuff, so get off of your ******* horse....I finally came across Vtecvoodoos dyno sheet.

So until you can post something that is contributing, eat a dick! It's not like Iam asking teh same questions that everyone else asks about b20/ls VTEC motors. All I wanted to know is about how much tq to expect with 11:1 compression and an R head.

Thanks Ryan, I appreciate your HELPFUL answer.

 

Thank's for the mautre responce. Ok fine Yes you can expect that much TQ. Is that better? Now what happens when you go actaully dyno your car and you don't make that? Here's a tissue. What happens if you make more power then VtecVoodoo? You'd probably **** yourself. As you should already know from not only researching, but also from posts on there it is impossible to tell. There are people out there breaking 200whp on relitivley stock ITR motors w/ stage 1 cam upgrades and there are people out there barely breaking 200whp on a fully built set-up. It's hard and damn near impossible to explain why. As I said I wasn't trying to be an ******* but what do you want a bunch of people do come on here and say "oh yeah man you'll break 200whp no problem or you'll easily hit 140wtq" and then you go and you are dissapointed because you don't do that. That's what usually happens about 9 out of 10 times. Rarely do people hit more then what people think because everyone on here thinks it's so easy and overshoot. Take it for what it's worth. Hope your day get's better man.

 

I expect no specific numbers...just a ballpark figure....please leave this thread alone as it is obvious you only post in it just to get a little arguing.

I understand not everyone will make the same #s...that's why I just wanted a rough estimate of what figures others are netting.

 

Vtecvoodoo

Are those AP Brake on the red civic?

..

 

Well despite your rudeness, I'm still a nice guy and no I don't "enjoy" arguing like some apperently on this board. I guess you can't win em all.

Here you go man...





I know these aren't exactly what you were looking for, but you can get an idea. These were all taken from Import Review. There are more there if you haven't been there yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brainwo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Vtecvoodoo

Are those AP Brake on the red civic?

.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct




Modified by vtecvoodoo at 11:48 AM 7/11/2003

 

Yeah I checked out teh charts there, since I have that site marked as a favorite, lol. I was unsure, because all the setups were different, and had about the same amount of tq....some had stock bottom ends and others had 12^:1 compression.

If I go with a setup like this, I am just looking for streetablity. Nothing crazy: i.e. cams or high compression

 

AP brake

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WAFFLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If I go with a setup like this, I am just looking for streetablity. Nothing crazy: i.e. cams or high compression</TD></TR></TABLE>
Streetability is overrated.
It's not exactly what you are looking for but I ran a B20B w/ B16A head in an EK coupe and he pulled steadily(from a roll) the whole way through everytime. This is a 4G VTEC prelude with i/e gutted as hell. The little bastard was quick for what it was.

 

Impressive..Impressive indeed! I have a b20vtec being built now and I know every car is different: my brother and I bought Automatic 1996 EK's brand new and his was faster than mine(felt torquer/responsive) but I'm curious what is the supporting cast for your beastly motor and mild cr. I have edyn 11.5 to 1's in my own? It has 70mmTB,JG Redline head, Ericks racing ecu, H/I/E,330inj,stock fuel pump, v-afc,etc..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by laughinxxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Streetability is overrated.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not when you are in college with only one car.

I would love to have 12..5:1 compression with Toda Ds, but I don't want to get that far into it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WAFFLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not when you are in college with only one car.

I would love to have 12..5:1 compression with Toda Ds, but I don't want to get that far into it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so true, i know exactly what you mean...i was considering a similar setup for building this winter...b20, 12:1 comp., skunk2 cams....that sorta thing, but I want it to be reliable for the most part which is why i want to do it right!

Im at 180/125 right now, and I need more torque

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 187 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Im at 180/125 right now, and I need more torque </TD></TR></TABLE>

What's your setup, if you dont mind me asking?

 

ITR head: AEM gears, b16 manifold (made more torque than the R), Iceman Intake, JDM DC 4-1 Header, STR fuel rail, holley pump
B16 block: Type R Internals, fidanza flywheel
ITR Tranny: Stock LSD, Stage 3 clutch

nothing to extreme yet, but its a really strong motor...I just want more torque from a bigger block, thats why I'm leaning towards b20

I'm running it at the track today for the first time, so we'll see what kinda results I get...I just put the JDM 4-1 header on, and all I can say is WOW! I didn't expect that much of a difference, but I can actually feel it...or maybe its all just in my head

 

wow that does sound like a strong motor...i too have a b16, and am looking for a little more torque.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WAFFLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow that does sound like a strong motor...i too have a b16, and am looking for a little more torque.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep, i think b20 will get us there

I'm aiming for around 225/150 when all is said and done, not too unrealistic I don't think

 

I would like to net 140lb-ft, with the flatest smoothest tq curve possible....I guess I'll see.

 

Not exaclty a b20, but similair. Bored b18, 11.5:1, 240+/166

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WAFFLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Would this come close to 140lb./ft. of tq.? I'm not too concerned with hp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well my 1.8 12:1 CR made 141 tq, so 2.0 should be much more. like stated above

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Again....come one guys.

I'm not really trying to be an ******* here, but.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude you really do bitch about every post on this board. If people only post what you want to read, then it is going to die like ClubSi and many other forums. This is an open forum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WAFFLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not when you are in college with only one car.

I would love to have 12..5:1 compression with Toda Ds, but I don't want to get that far into it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm getting into it, but I still need to drive to work too. Not to mention gas is expensive, but I'm willing to eat less to get 94 or 98 octane when I need it (racing/advancing timing/dyno).

Less Weight(driver)=faster 1/4 times + some CF here and there

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 187 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so true, i know exactly what you mean...i was considering a similar setup for building this winter...b20, 12:1 comp., skunk2 cams....that sorta thing, but I want it to be reliable for the most part which is why i want to do it right!

Im at 180/125 right now, and I need more torque </TD></TR></TABLE>
I feel U. I have a b18c1 in my hatch and I have to make it scream to get at that torque curve. I have an itch to be scratched in the below 6000RPM area
B20/vtec Here's another dyno: [URL][ http://www.allmotorhonda.com/t...0.htm /URL]