k if you have an h22a turbo or you know about them i need to know what all to do to my h22a to be able to run about 10 psi of boost without shoutin anything out my hood or rebuildin my motor every week (i want it to be a daily driver)

 

have you even tried to search for this topic?!?!? If you would try in prelude, there an entire thread devoted to boosted 'ludes, a lot of which are H22s...

 

There is no way you can run 10psi on a daily driver. Somewhere down the line, something will have happen, and it won't be good. Most people lower it to 5-6psi. However, if you were to upgrade the internals, you would be able to run that 10psi. Almost everyone will tell you that H-series motors are not the best for boost. But with the right parts, they can be more efficient.

 

10 psi can be done, i would not recommend it. 7 realistically is the most you want to run daily before building internals. Tuning is the key.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crono139 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no way you can run 10psi on a daily driver. Somewhere down the line, something will have happen, and it won't be good. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry dude, but you're really, REALLY wrong. It's possible to run up to 12 PSI on an H22 on stock internals, Firedrake in the "Prelude" forum is doing it right now w/no problems. The secret is in the tuning, with a Hondata, AEM EMS, or EFI PMS and a wideband O2 dyno, anything is possible. TUNING, TUNING, TUNING, I can't stress that enough, take it to the pros and watch that a/f ratio. A Tech Edge wideband or/preferably and J&S Safeguard Ver. 2 are a must if you're not. If you slap the turbo on and cross your fingers, you'll be shopping the "Classifieds" for a new longblock/head in no time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most people lower it to 5-6psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Also false. 7 PSI is safe on stock internals with minimal tuning, like the VAFC hack. Anything above that is playing with fire and the ringlands can and may go BOOM!!! The H22a1 is closed deck, so it's more boost-friendly than my a4, but still...if you don't know, ask somebody.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">However, if you were to upgrade the internals, you would be able to run that 10psi. Almost everyone will tell you that H-series motors are not the best for boost.</TD></TR></TABLE> The H23 is closed deck also, and a better bet than the a1, which is a better bet than the a4. The weak points in the H22 engine are the piston ringlands, they do NOT like boost and will fail even in nitrous or supercharged applications if not tuned properly, or left to the "Blue/Black Boxes of Death" that Jackson Racing and Greddy pass off with their kits. Like any other engine, rods, pistons and sleeving are suggested for running high boost. If you're going to run forged pistons in an H22 you MUST sleeve the block!!!

Like was said earlier, the bible of H22 turboing is here: The OFFICIAL TURBO Prelude Thread. The guy who started the post is a former Mod who had a modified Greddy turbo w/over 375 whp (until he sold it recently to go full-custom) on his '97 Lude. It's 22 pages, so get ready to get some serious eye strain, but it's good stuff. Also get a membership to Prelude Online. I think the membership fee is like $6. Then there's H22.ORG, another valuable resource for H22 owners.

Lastly, if you have a Lude engine, go to the "Prelude" forum for engine/tranny questions and stay here for suspension/braking/electrical/appearance/etc. If I had an F22, I wouldn't be looking for answers in the "EK" forum, would I?!? This topic is a prime example of how there's way too much misinformation running around among non-experts based on mostly third-hand information & hearsay. So if you really do have the swap dude and you want to get the most out of it, split your time between the "Accord" and "Lude" forums, we'd be glad to have you....

EDIT: Wazzup Stylez, you bored too?!?

 

Basically, you can run higher boost like 12psi daily driven if you have a good aftermarket standalone (Hondata,EMS) and tuned on a dyno.

If you are running the hack or an FMU, there is a greater risk of detonating. If you get detonation at higher boost, you'll pop the ringlands. So get a standalone and tune it or use the hack/fmu and go with lower boost.

Detonation is what kills the ringlands, not just adding boost...

 

so how much do you think it would cost to machine and sleeve the upper deck. and how much for pistons, rings, pins, valves, springs and retainers

 

if you want high boost and a reliable built engine...i would say that you are looking at about 5G's all together...to do it right

 

5 grand for the build and turbo or 5 grand for h22 build and turbo

 

That proves that I don't know **** about the H22. Just heard from a number of people that the H22 isn't the best for boost. I was just going by what I know from people have turboed their F23s without any problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stew Pidasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Detonation is what kills the ringlands, not just adding boost...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't disagree with you at all there man, maybe I didn't make the a/f ratio point clear enough. Tuning from a true standalone is a plus, but yeah definitely some sort of a/f governing system is imperative, too many peeps think that a set of gauges is going to save them, which they aren't. A J&S IMO (the new one, not the Classic) would help a lot in that regard as well.

However that's not the only thing to watch out for. We got into this on PO.com and a guy made an excellent point, that anything that boost/n20 raises compression also, so whether it's a turbo, a SC or a bottle, any of them create excess strain on the engine and make a potentially hazardous situation...

 

why mitch why.. talk with me first please.. You don't need to run 15 psi to be as fast as you want.. if you did an h22 + turbo with stock boost. You would be plenty fast. you aren't building a drag car so it doen't matter if you are crazy fast.. plus you don't have the cash flow. call me or hit me up on msn sometime..

 

i paid 4,600$ for my build up

 

10 psi, that's alot for a daily driver. go to the right tuning shop and you should be good. i heard that sp in so.cal is pretty good.