Rad cap, oil cap, magnetic drain plugs (tranny and oilpan), and the thermostat. I have the thermo switch coming in too. My car runs really hot, and after a while, you can notice the difference in power from when it was first started, especially in the mid range.

Hopefully, some Redline water wetter along with the Spoon products will help a bit. I suppose I need to do some data logging to see what my coolant temperature is.

My other question is would an aftermarket radiator (something like Fluidyne), help cool better? What about an oil cooler, I have the stock oil cooler that the OBd1 GSRs and all ITRs came with, but I am wondering if a dedicated oil cooler would help more

 

"My other question is would an aftermarket radiator (something like Fluidyne), help cool better? What about an oil cooler, I have the stock oil cooler that the OBd1 GSRs and all ITRs came with, but I am wondering if a dedicated oil cooler would help more"

I love my Fluidyne radiator. I beat the hell out of my car and my temp gauge never fluctuates. Im still running on an OEM thermostat as well. One problem with my radiator though is that it didnt have a mount for the A/C fan so I think they either sent me the wrong radiator or it was only made for Tegs with no A/C(not that it matters though bc I removed the A/C awhile ago).

 

I think a good aftermarket radiator would probably help the over heating problem more than those Spoon thermostat and switch.

 

You're going to run a little cold...then if you get the Fluidyne you're going to have serious issues. Here is my experience with the thermostat/thermoswitch https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=550997

Austin

 

So an aftermarket radiator with stock thermostat and thermoswitch would be a better solution to the over heating problem?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mafay2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So an aftermarket radiator with stock thermostat and thermoswitch would be a better solution to the over heating problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No in that case it would be even worse.

So far 2 members on HT that I know of who live in California (Normally Hot weather) who also race their ITR's, have OEM radiators, and also have a Low Temp Thermostat (Fan) Switch as well as a Low Temp Thermostat. Just those 2 combined are enough to make the car run too cold, one of the guys was running so cold at highway speeds that VTEC wouldn't even engage. Having an Aftermarket Radiator like a Fluidyne or Koyo on top of those two would put it over the edge.

I reccomend running either the thermostat or the switch, not both. I know a few people running aftermarket radiators and either of the above two parts and they are fun as well. Seems to only be a problem on cars running both the switch and thermostat.

 

BTW I forgot to add that the few people who have had this problem Only had it on the street. On the track the car was running hot enough.

 

Thanks for the heads up Mike

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So far 2 members on HT that I know of who live in California (Normally Hot weather) who also race their ITR's, have OEM radiators, and also have a Low Temp Thermostat (Fan) Switch as well as a Low Temp Thermostat. Just those 2 combined are enough to make the car run too cold, one of the guys was running so cold at highway speeds that VTEC wouldn't even engage. Having an Aftermarket Radiator like a Fluidyne or Koyo on top of those two would put it over the edge.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm curious how common an ITR overheating is? Track or street?

Of the handful of ITRs that I am very familiar with out here in AZ I haven't heard of any of us having issues, even on track days... which can get "warm" in Phoenix... with stock cooling.

The only reason I ask is that I wonder why a Canadian R is running so hot?

 

12.5:1 compression, crappy uncoated DC 4-1 JDM header will do that. EGT readings are between 1200-1400 degrees. This is in a GSR by the way

The problem is not over heating, just heat soak. Its so hot under the hood, that I can't touch the oil cap. When it gets that way, I notice the power loss

 

Im also guessing that if you ARENT running an OEM ECU you wont have the same issues that Austin had. His ECU was dumping fuel because it was running too cold. I doubt a standalone system such as the AEM EMS does this sort of thing(I have not noticed it with mine anyway).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by canuck-mx6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">12.5:1 compression, crappy uncoated DC 4-1 JDM header will do that. EGT readings are between 1200-1400 degrees. This is in a GSR by the way

The problem is not over heating, just heat soak. Its so hot under the hood, that I can't touch the oil cap. When it gets that way, I notice the power loss</TD></TR></TABLE>

I get it then... Actually we get quite a bit of soak in AZ. It's 116 today and the car feels S L O W ...
Good luck.

 

Um yummy SPOON!

 

Poon is good!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im also guessing that if you ARENT running an OEM ECU you wont have the same issues that Austin had. His ECU was dumping fuel because it was running too cold. I doubt a standalone system such as the AEM EMS does this sort of thing(I have not noticed it with mine anyway). </TD></TR></TABLE>

Standalones all have Cold Start Fuel Enrichment tables, until the more recent version of Hondata you could not manipulate those tables, you now can. I'll have to get my tuner to play with the tables to see if we can get it to remove a certain amount of the extra fuel that it's adding in.

Austin

 

Looks good. Hope they work out for you.


Modified by Tommy_Gunns at 6:11 PM 7/10/2003

 

But I am talking about aftermarket radiator with STOCK thermostat and thermoswitch should be better solution than just using aftermarket thermostat and thermoswitch with STOCK radiator.

Aftermarket radiator with aftermarket thermostat and thermoswitch would definite way over kill for street use.

 

Not a big fan of the spoon thermostat but everything else is gravy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by canuck-mx6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The problem is not over heating, just heat soak. Its so hot under the hood, that I can't touch the oil cap. When it gets that way, I notice the power loss</TD></TR></TABLE> Hey Canuck-mx6, you can run venting around your engine externals like to the head using hood scoops or brake ducting but you seem to notice poor performance from heat not just hot-to-the-touch parts. I bet the thermostat will be enough for you, but you can still shroud the radiator as well. I have seen many local autocrossing DSM owners seal off the edges of their radiator to the front crossmembers so that all incoming air is directed to the radiator and thru it, instead of some escaping around the radiator. You seem like a DIY guy so I have no doubt you could fab up a cool aluminum plate to surround the radiator.

I run the mugen thermostat and spoon rad cap with 11.5:1 setup GSR motor and it is running just right temperature wise on the street... no tracktime yet

 

so would you guys consider an oil cooler radiator bad for the car?

 

you would need to monitor oil temps and block off the cooler if it's running too efficient

 

i would just run the thermo switch and rad cap. the t-stat would open too soon and the engine coolant temp monitored by the ECU will never reach it's operating temprature and cause it to run rich all the time.

unless you do some heavy duty racing ont he track.......

maybe it would be a good idea to buy a NEW oem t-stat instead.......especially if the one you have it original or really old.......

i replaced my t-stat to a new OEM one allong with a mugen thermo switch and kissed my over heating problems goodbye once and for all!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by owen_the_soyboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Hey Canuck-mx6, you can run venting around your engine externals like to the head using hood scoops or brake ducting but you seem to notice poor performance from heat not just hot-to-the-touch parts. I bet the thermostat will be enough for you, but you can still shroud the radiator as well. I have seen many local autocrossing DSM owners seal off the edges of their radiator to the front crossmembers so that all incoming air is directed to the radiator and thru it, instead of some escaping around the radiator. You seem like a DIY guy so I have no doubt you could fab up a cool aluminum plate to surround the radiator.

I run the mugen thermostat and spoon rad cap with 11.5:1 setup GSR motor and it is running just right temperature wise on the street... no tracktime yet </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I installed the thermostat and the thermoswitch, today (19 degrees C outside). The car takes a while longer to warm up, but the loss of power that I used to experience after driving the car for a while is gone. I really pushed it for about half an hour on the highway, driving in the 6000-9000 RPM range to try to get the motor nice and hot, and when I exited, my midrange power was just the same as when the car was first started.

The temperature gauge does not go as high as it used to, and I am happy with the way the car felt. Since today was cool, it is just the cool sort of day that I needed to test to see if the car would run cold. It doesn't.

 

You say that the temp gauge went higher than normal before. How high was it?

 

I finally bought some spoon stuff too LOL!