Well me and a buddy tried to install a set of Goodridge SS Brake lines. They bolted right up, we then bled the brakes. After everything was done, the pedal just sinks all the way down to the floor without having to push your foot down hard..

So we thought we bled the brakes wrong. We then ended up bleeding the brakes at least 2 more times. Still the brakes would not work. We then gave up and tried reinstalling the stock brake lines.. Bled the brakes, and they still dont work.

Any suggestions?


Cliff notes: Attempted to try and install Stainless Steel Brake lines. Bled brakes, brakes wont work. Reinstalled Stock Brake Lines, Bled brakes still dont work.

Still no brakes..

 

your probably bleeding the brakes in the wrong order. Im not sure what the correct order is but ive heard right rear, right front, left rear, and left front. Which way are you doing it and are you sure its right, cause it sounds like you just have more airbubbles in the lines.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aw1234dude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your probably bleeding the brakes in the wrong order. Im not sure what the correct order is but ive heard right rear, right front, left rear, and left front. Which way are you doing it and are you sure its right, cause it sounds like you just have more airbubbles in the lines. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought right rear,left rear,right front,left front.make sure when bleeding the brakes, watch the M/C that its always full of brake fulid...

 

yeah u bleed the brake farthest from the master cylinder and work your way forward.

 

We bled the brakes in the proper order, to Haynes Specifications.

Could it possibly be the way we bled the brakes? How do you know when to stop? When the brake pedal get stiff?

 

you bleed until no more air comes out of the line. It might take a while to get all the air out of the lines. I used 3 bottles of brake fluid bleeding my brakes.

 

sounds like your MC went out.

 

fixed.. im about to do mine so im intrested

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTECoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah u bleed the brake farthest from the master cylinder and work your way forward.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wrong
1. right rear
2. left front
3. left rear
4. right front

 

Yeah Zer0DazE is correct about the order.
When you bleed the brakes you put a small tube over the brake bleeder valve into a cup of brake fluid. Get someone to pump the brakes then hold the pedal to the floor. While the pedal is down open the valve by losening the nut, until you see bubbles in the brake fluid. Then tighten the nut back up and repeat until there is no more bubbles comming out. Should only take like 15-20 minutes to do all of them. You also need to make sure the master cylinder is always full of brake fluid. I fit runs out you have to start over.

Hope that helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zer0DazE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wrong
1. right rear
2. left front
3. left rear
4. right front

</TD></TR></TABLE> You are correct sir, this is how you do FWD vehicles!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zer0DazE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wrong
1. right rear
2. left front
3. left rear
4. right front

</TD></TR></TABLE>

just wondering what the reasoning behind this method is? Bleeding from the furthest to the closest makes sense but what's the methodolgy here?

And someone said this is how you bleed FWD cars? What does it matter if it's FWD?

s

 

Did you make sure there was brake fluid still in the reservoir when bleeding?

 

Sounds like either you did not bleed correctly, or you have a problem with your mc. Here is a pic from my 96-00 helms manual with the proper brake bleed order.

 

did you have your both your brake calipers off the car?

if so you might have gotten them mixed up...left on right and right on left. make sure the bleeder valve on the caliper is up not DOWN....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aw1234dude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. Im not sure what the correct order is but ive heard right rear, right front, left rear, and left front.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, that's the way I did mine, and it worked fine.

 

Thanks guys. I did a little searching and found out that when you are bleeding the brakes you are not supposed to put the pedal all the way down to the floor. Which I did several times. I think my MC is busted.

Now since I know that I probably have to change my MC. What else do I need to change? Also do I have to bleed the brakes again?

 

You will need to bleed again. Check out this recent thread, it mentions bench bleeding the MC. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=556492

Make sure you verify the MC being busted, I have bled the brakes pushing the pedal to the floor before and never had problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by piscorpio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure you verify the MC being busted, I have bled the brakes pushing the pedal to the floor before and never had problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>
me too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stevel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

just wondering what the reasoning behind this method is? Bleeding from the furthest to the closest makes sense but what's the methodolgy here?

And someone said this is how you bleed FWD cars? What does it matter if it's FWD?

s</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honda hydraulic brake systems are designed so that the left front and right rear are one system and the right front and left rear are one system. This way if one bank fails you still have braking power that doesn't pull to one direction or the other.

 

word... no problem putting it to the floor...

sometimes just running fluid through the master sends something through a seal and blows it...

I know it's obvious but... make sure you're not leaking fluid anywhere though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Draco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Honda hydraulic brake systems are designed so that the left front and right rear are one system and the right front and left rear are one system. This way if one bank fails you still have braking power that doesn't pull to one direction or the other. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Word.

"diagonal braking system"

 

I really doubt you need a new MC. I just replaced mine cus I thought it was the reason my brakes would not work but it was just that me and my friend were bleeding them wrong. When you open the system up like that you let a lot of air in and it is a pain in the *** to get it out. A few tips though make sure the car is on level ground, tap the callipers with a rubber mallet (it knocks trapped air bubbles loose) use a tube and a bottle keep the end of the tube under the surface of the fluid in the bottle. RR,LF,LR,RF. Go around the car like 5 times if need be. To test the MC: with the car off pump the brake pedal a few time then hold down hard for 15 seconds if it slowly sinks more you have a bad MC.

 

try adding pressure to the system before you bleed.. i.e. pump the brakes a lot before you open up the lines to breathe... add fluid.. pump (you may need to use you hands in the beginning since the pedal will drop to the floor)

 

i'd just take it to a Honda place. I tried bleeding the brakes on my 93 coupe w/ a friend and even though i did it right, it still didn't feel as good. For 50 bucks "Honda hospital" (greatest Honda shop ever!) bleed them really well and the feel freaking awsome now. Well worth the 50 bux for peace of mind IMO.

Good Luck, i hope you MC isn't busted!

-Sketch