THIS IS A SAFETY TIP. If you ruin a slick that means one slick, you have to ask your self a ? WHY did this happen, and I better fix the problem. PLEASE find a slick that will match the size of your old one, that means, the circumference of the tire which should not exceed over a 1/2" of the old slick if not, we would rather you buy a new set. It's not worth going into the guard rail and getting hurt. I would rather pay for a set of slicks, then pay $ 6000.00 for repairs on my race car. PLEASE this is Goooooood advice. I hope this stays @ the top for a long time so everybody can see this. At M&H our #1 goal is SAFETY. Thank You for listening. John@M&H


Modified by SlicksMH at 6:42 AM 7/9/2003

 

Good advice.... I see alot of dicusion on motor and suspension setup's but nothing on tires which is a big mystery in my mind in drag racing. Not that the masses dont know size but more like compound and when to get new ones. Ive seen some racers with very old slicks on there cars....tsk tsk

 

Thanks for the good advice.

One question: I am new to using slicks and I just bought this new set of slicks
and they're M/H Racemaster 23 x 7.5 x 15 on Kosei K1 rims 15 x 7 for my 2001
Integra Type R (w/ oem 5 lug suspension) and I am putting down about 190whp/140wtq. This past event at CMI at Sac., CA. I kept having traction problem. The best I can get out of the 60ft time is 1.9. I was getting 2.0s all day.

I was told by a few people that this is normal because I got big (15") slicks considering most people are running 13" on bogarts. But a few other people
told me I can probably do better than 1.9s. I see people hit 1.7-1.8s left and right
w/ slicks and this was the time I expected to hit but I can never get it lower than
1.9. My ET was 12.9@105mph with a 2200 lbs car w/o me (170lbs) in it. I don't consider myself as a bad driver but I think I definitely can do better than 1.9s.
I tried short burn out (~5 sec) and long burn out (~20 sec) to heat up the slicks.
Lower rpm launch (6500rpm) and high rpm launch (8000 rpm) and nothing can
get me lower than 1.9s. Any advice?

 

#1 you have one mark against you M&H recommends a 6" rim for this tire to get the full contact of the slicks. #2 I was there and nobody was getting bite when the sun was out but when it cooled down things change for the better, I was the man in the white M&H hat keeping the water box clean. #3 You will get better bite with a 13" slick more side wall that means more windup and more bite.#4 what was your air pressure and where did you buy the slicks and did they tell you need to use a 6" rim . John@M&H


Modified by SlicksMH at 4:17 PM 7/8/2003

 

Good advice John.

art

 

I have a question also. I'm still running on a set of 24.5 by 8 by 13 M&H's I bought
in 2000. At the time two differant slicks were being offered, these were for
higher hp cars and seem to have a stiffer sidewall them others I have seen.
The wheels are Lenzo 13 by 7.5".

At the end of 2002 I was still getting good 1.60 60 foot times so I assume the
rubber hasn't gone hard or anything. Am I giving up much performance staying
with a tire this old?

This years car weighs in around 2550, makes around 550 hp and runs though a
auto trans, does the trans make a differance on slick selection?

Thanks Steve

 

Are you talking about the 8.5/24.5-13 with the 8" rim size ?

 

Opp's, you are right they are 8.5" wide, mounted on a 7.5" wide wheel.

Steve

 

Hey Steve, you should be running an 8" rim with that size, I know its only a 1/2" but M&H recommends a 8" rim to get the most bite out of the slicks. Running the 7.5 rim size it will work, but what will happen is the center of the slick will have a crown in it and that means, less contact patch to the ground. I know just lower the air pressure, why do that when you can get a 8"rim and correct the problem @ the start, and then have some fun playing with air pressure. What is that old saying, do it right the first time or don't do it @ all. Now about the stiffer sidewall in that size, they only made one sidewall maybe you know something that I don't know, but I am sure there was only one sidewall, but I will check on it for you and get back with you on that. Now on the rubber being old, Erick ran his 8/25-13 for three years and @ the end of the third year he was running on the cord, now I don't want you doing that, Erick could not get the M&H tires for a long time and he did not want to go to a different brand. The rule of thumb is, you have inspection holes on the contact patch of the slicks, once they are gone, it's time to get a new pair of shoes. Now about the auto trans, that is a GOOD ? and I will check on this for you. I hopes this helps. John@M&H

 

Yes I am sure about the two differant tires with the same size. I was kinda
bummed when I first picked these up, at 5 psi there was very little wrinkle
in the sidewalls. While the "other" tire had a good bit.

I'm kinda stuck with the wheels for now, at least until this winter.

And yes the Automatic is a good thing! Once setup right I think it is a definate
advantage over a stick shift car. BTW, this isn't a Honda, it's a Dodge Peon
So far with a best 11.2 at 131 mph.

Steve

 

hey john- why did u reccomend the 6" rim for s2geezy w a 7.5" tire and for racer steve you reccomended a 8" rim for a 8.5" tire. Im wondering why you don't want s2geezy on a 7" rim for max. contact patch? thx

chris

 

It was how the slick was designed, that it needs a 6" rim. If you put a 7" rim on the 7.5/23-15, what will happen is the center of the contact patch will pull down. John@M&H

 

ahh. thanks for clearing that up. when buying a slick how do u know what rim size it was meant for?

 

Hey Steve you were right, M&H did come out with a stiffer sidewall @ that time and the compound was soft and they called the compound the HB-10 = M123, but we never had that tire in our warehouse and they don't make that tire anymore. I learn everyday. Your ? on automatic, it just depends on your application, put it sounds like to me what you said, you need to go with the HB-11 = MHR-09. It was nice talking to you, and I did learn 101 today thank you, Good Luck Steve. John@M&H

 

Are you the only M/H guy there that day at this past CMI? I talked to this gentleman from M/H and he was helpful, helping me with going through the water box and my questions in regards to the M/H slicks. Great customer serive even
though I did not buy my last set of slicks from him. I sure will on my next set.

Back on the subject. I will find a 15 x 6 soon and remount the slicks. Is balancing
necessary on the slicks? Yea, thing got better for me when it was cooler 'cuz that's when I hit 1.9 60ft time and 12.9@105. I don't think there is a way for me to
run 13", is there?? Because I have stock ITR 5-lug suspension and the brakes
are too big to clear a 13", or even a 14". I started out with 15psi and lowered it
to around 10psi. I didn't go under 10psi though. I was running about 12psi for
those 2 days. I ordered the slicks through a local speed shop that is a dealer of
M/H. I was not aware that I need to run a 6" because I was (and still am) new to
slicks. I knew it when I got this size/spec sheet from the same M/H guy at CMI.

The prices are great. I paid about $170 shipped for mine. And the special price (racer net) is only $131.60 Guys, check out the web site http://www.mapautoparts.com
or mandhtires.com

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlicksMH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">#1 you have one mark against you M&H recommend a 6" rim for this tire to get the full contact of the slicks. #2 I was their and nobody was getting bite when the sun was out but when it cooled down things change for the better, I was the man in the white M&H hat keeping the water box clean. #3 You will get better bite with a 13" slicks more side wall that means more windup and more bite.#4 what was your air pressure and were you bought the slicks did they tell you you need to use a 6" rim . John@M&H


Modified by SlicksMH at 4:17 PM 7/8/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Yes it is very important to balance the slicks, and yes that was me @ the CMI race, I had a lot of fun the staff was very nice and they let me help keep the track clean, it was like the good old days when my dad and his friend owned the Famoso track back in the 60's and 70's in Bakersfield. Thank You for the support. John@M&H

 

After talking with John everything he says makes sense. When I was looking for some wheels for my slicks someone I called said i could just put them on some steel wheels. I would never risk it, make sure you mount you slicks on a wheel that will be safe, buying the right wheels can also be more important then giving up your car.

 

I have a quick question for you John, once the wear dots are nearing their end how long does a slick have to live after that? BUMP also. Im on drag radials now for hte class Im in but I think Illbe getting two sets of tires so I can run allout at test nights and grudge races on slicks and regulat street ETs on radials.

 

John has a very, very good point. It's like when i used to bust tires all day long in teh ghetto. No offense to anybody, but I have seen teh worst of the worst. People came in with contact patches barely missing, broken belts, belts showing, and all they wanted was for me to check teh air in their tires. WTF? DO you know how dangerous that is when you're going 60-70mph on the HWY and the tire decides to give out, especially the fronts? Why not pay a little now for new tires, than pay for a new car or end up paying the devil(insurance company)for the rest of your life?

As for slicks, you can relate to going fast and tires popping. Having a new tire does not justify that you will be safe. Imagine going 130mph at teh end of the track and you didn't think your car was that low so you left the ride height low. Now imagine your fenders eating away at the rubber when you're brake diving....Now what if the tire decides to go, you're history mang.

As for rim to slick sizing. When you buy the slicks you will more than likely see a spec sheet before ordering. In teh specs, there should be a reccomended rim size to go upon.

One other thing I hate are people slapping some 8" wide slicks on stock steelies...people, it will work, but you will not get good contact due to the tire crowning in teh middle when the air is out of the tire. 5.5" rims and 8" wide slicks don't mix. Please don't do this.

DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME AND SAVE MONEY IN THE END

 

Ok all this talk about proper size rims and tires is worrying me a little bit so i will ask just in case.Im using 13" lenso's with 13x8x22 slicks so will i be ok?Im getting the combo from Exospeed and im sure he would say something if I were to run into some problems.

 

Give me a fax # and I will send you a M&H Tire sheet. Now do not go off M&H's spec sheet to use for a diff brand. Now you can buy direct from us. John@M&H

 

It just depends on how heavy your foot is. When it's that close it's time for a new pair of shoes. You can buy direct from us. John@M&H

 

Hey J2turbo21 long time no see. The 8/22-13 needs a 8" wide rim, is that what you have? John@M&H

 

I just checked exospeeds site and it says the Lenso's are 13x7.5"

 

The 7.5 you will be Ok, did you buy the rims already. John@M&H