This is a stock block/stock head K24.

With stock ECU, I/H/E and cat., it put down 135hp 135lbs-tq. This motor is rated at 160hp 162lbs-ft at the crank.

After AEM intake, DC header, and Thermal 2.25 exhaust it put down 161hp 143lbs-ft.

The cat. was replaced today with a custom b-pipe. The car seems to pull to redline quicker. We are going to dyno it in a few days and I will post the new numbers.

The custom intake manifold should be done in about a month. The new cams should be ready in about six weeks. All new numbers will be posted ASAP.

K24 can be had for about $1200. http://www.car-part.com
Call your local shop for labor. Labor shouldn't be any more than swapping a stock K20A3.

 

cool your trying the swap... I was always interested in that particular swap.

but.... why swap out my perfectly good a3 for a k24 for 5hp+ --- ? doesnt look to promising...

k24 block and k20a2 head -- makes more sense...

or just sell the a3 and get a a2 --- good for 35+ hp

IMO.

 

The cheapest you can get a a2 is about $2400. The owner felt the price difference between the k24 and the k20a2 wasn't worth it and he wanted to try something new. The k24 shows good promise. If it doesn't perform as he wants, the type s head will be put on it.

 

So basically I could sell my k20a3, buy a k24, and still make some money?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk02EP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So basically I could sell my k20a3, buy a k24, and still make some money?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, your a3 is worth about the same as a k24.

 

Hey FUCATYPR, I finally got on the computer.

The car he is talking about is my fiance's. Just to be technical, it put down 137.1hp and 134.3lb/ft in stock K24 trim. From what I've seen from other dynos, that's an improvement of 5-10hp and 20lb/ft over a stock K20a3. But that's just the beginning. An a3 with the same modifications as ours (i/h/e) made 13hp and 8lb/ft where ours made 24.6hp and 9.6lb/ft. I'll take that any day. And that's still with the smaller K24 cams. By comparing the two cams, there should be another 5hp by swapping out the truck cams with the Si cams. We sent ours out to get reground in hope of getting even more than that. We just had the cat replaced with a custom b-pipe. Felt pretty good up top, but the dyno will tell the truth. Should have numbers tues or wed.

Our basic goal with this motor swap was to see how far we could get this motor to go with simple modifications and compare that to the a2 or K24/a2. So far it's looking pretty good, but we should see some really good numbers in the next month.

 

Are you running the k24 or the SI intake manifold?

 

Right now we have the Si intake manifold on. The shorter runners are better for horsepower, and the CR-V manifold would not have fit anyways. But within the next couple of weeks, we have a custom racing manifold going on.

 

Have you compared the injectors? Are they the same size? I was curious if it is running lean with the SI ecu.

The stock k24 in my CR-V auto did 129.8hp, 127.4tq and 129.5, 128.5tq on a dynojet. With the SI's intake, ecu, electric p/s and 5sp, I expected a bigger difference( even though they are on different dynos).

 

I hate to admit it, but I don't know the size of the Si injectors, but it's not running lean. As far as the numbers, those were good pulls on the auto. I'm not sure about the CR-V exhaust, but the Si's is really bad. That could make a difference, as well as different dyno's (like you said). In stock K24 trim on a different dyno we put down 143hp and 142lb/ft, but since every other pull was and will be done on the one I quoted, those are the numbers I go by.

 

Stock K20A3 with 10K miles


FYI



was done on the same dyno as yours

 

Those are pretty good numbers for a stock a3. From what I've seen, they are usually around 130hp and 116lb/ft. And yes, it was done on the same dyno, but there is one big 30 degree difference in temp (58 vs 86). Im not sure how much of a difference that would make, but there would have to be some.

Since we are being honest, why don't you show where you are at now on that same dyno??? (w/ the frankenstein)

She went to the dyno today after having the new b-pipe w/ no cat put on. I have to admit, it wasn't what we were expecting (especially since we paid to much for it in the first place).
Current Mods: AEM cold air, DC Sports header, 2.5" b-pipe, 2.25" Thermal R&D exhaust.

We put down 167.8hp and 145.2lb/ft, an increase of only 6.1hp and 1.3lb/ft.
Interestingly a stock TSX went to the same dyno last week. He put down 163.3hp and 146.3lb/ft.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock K20A3 with 10K miles


FYI



was done on the same dyno as yours</TD></TR></TABLE>

not to good at reading dyno charts...what are the #s? plz

 

Look at the bottom of the pic.

139.2 and 125.3

 

but there is one big 30 degree difference in temp (58 vs 86). Im not sure how much of a difference that would make, but there would have to be some.


Incorrect.

There should be no difference, that is what the "SAE Correction" is for, to adjust for temp,humidity and pressure differences.

 

Jack, was that your first pull? Did you have the air box or your o2 disconnected?

Those are great numbers for a stock k20a3.

 

If that is the case and a stock Si should put that down, then explain how our car in stock K24 trim was able to walk an Si w/ intake (easily)???

And Jack, since you don't know me or how I am, I just want to clarify it before assumptions are made. I'm not trying to start an argument or have some big competition. My fiance and I are just here to show people how this motor takes to modifications and maybe learn something in the process. That's why we aren't hiding anything, nothing is a secret.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiK24 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My fiance and I are just here to show people how this motor takes to modifications and maybe learn something in the process.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Post up a picture of the dyno sheet vs. posting peak numbers. I don't know about you... but I drive using the full rpm band, not with the revs at peak output.

Showing the midrange gains/losses would be a better learning tool vs. the peak number output changes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Post up a picture of the dyno sheet vs. posting peak numbers. I don't know about you... but I drive using the full rpm band, not with the revs at peak output.

Showing the midrange gains/losses would be a better learning tool vs. the peak number output changes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sik24 went out of town today. When he get's back, I'll post the dyno sheets.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Post up a picture of the dyno sheet vs. posting peak numbers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

please do.

I give two ***** about peak numbers.

 

or your o2 disconnected?


NO.

Why would one do that??

 

was able to walk an Si w/ intake (easily)???

Please help me with this term "walk"??

I drive my EP.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> or your o2 disconnected?


NO.

Why would one do that??</TD></TR></TABLE>

From Hondata:
1) Never use the power figures from the first run. They will usually be high because the intake manifold (and intake air) is cold. Make several runs, allowing a few minutes between each run. Typically the power levels will settle about runs three and 4.

2) Always allow 10 seconds after starting the car before giving it full throttle. During the first 10 seconds the car is warming up on different fuel and ignition tables.

3) Use an OBD II scan tool to read the intake water temperatures. Try to start each run with the water temperature between 185 and 195 F. To cool off the engine after each run, run the internal heater for about 30 seconds. Switch off the engine, switch the key back on (do not start) and turn on the air conditioning switch. This will activate the aircon fans. Run the fans for a minute or two.

4) The front oxygen sensor on this car is a wideband sensor and can keep the car in closed loop (14.7 air fuel ratio) even at wide open throttle, up to about 4700 rpm. Consider unplugging the front oxygen sensor. This will force the ECU to run in open loop, ignoring any stored fuel trim settings.

5) If you do not unplug the O2 sensor consider running the car in 4th gear and starting the run at very low RPM (about 1000) to give the ECU time to switch to open loop.

6) Consider unplugging the leftmost of the three ECU connectors (above the passenger's feet) after your 3rd or 4th dyno run. This will reset the fuel trim to zero. The ECU will relearn the fuel trim after a few minutes of driving.

7) Fairly obvious but worth repeating. Keep the same wheel and tire and tire pressures every time you visit the dyno. A subtle point here but worth mentioning. Inertial dynos (such as the dynojet) do not measure power: They calculate it. They measure acceleration (F=MA). The acceleration value is used to calculate the accelerating force which in turn is used to calculate the power.

The mass being accelerated is the dynojet roller, the wheels, tires, gear clusters and flywheel. Any changes to the mass being accelerated will change the force and calculated power.



Copyright © 2002 Hondata, Inc. All rights reserved.
Products are for off road use. Warranty Information

 

BTW, do you still have your stock K24 head? If so, how much do you want for it?

 

From Hondata:
1) Never use the power figures from the first run. They will usually be high because the intake manifold (and intake air) is cold. Make several runs, allowing a few minutes between each run. Typically the power levels will settle about runs three and 4.

2) Always allow 10 seconds after starting the car before giving it full throttle. During the first 10 seconds the car is warming up on different fuel and ignition tables.

3) Use an OBD II scan tool to read the intake water temperatures. Try to start each run with the water temperature between 185 and 195 F. To cool off the engine after each run, run the internal heater for about 30 seconds. Switch off the engine, switch the key back on (do not start) and turn on the air conditioning switch. This will activate the aircon fans. Run the fans for a minute or two.

4) The front oxygen sensor on this car is a wideband sensor and can keep the car in closed loop (14.7 air fuel ratio) even at wide open throttle, up to about 4700 rpm. Consider unplugging the front oxygen sensor. This will force the ECU to run in open loop, ignoring any stored fuel trim settings.

5) If you do not unplug the O2 sensor consider running the car in 4th gear and starting the run at very low RPM (about 1000) to give the ECU time to switch to open loop.

6) Consider unplugging the leftmost of the three ECU connectors (above the passenger's feet) after your 3rd or 4th dyno run. This will reset the fuel trim to zero. The ECU will relearn the fuel trim after a few minutes of driving.

7) Fairly obvious but worth repeating. Keep the same wheel and tire and tire pressures every time you visit the dyno. A subtle point here but worth mentioning. Inertial dynos (such as the dynojet) do not measure power: They calculate it. They measure acceleration (F=MA). The acceleration value is used to calculate the accelerating force which in turn is used to calculate the power.

The mass being accelerated is the dynojet roller, the wheels, tires, gear clusters and flywheel. Any changes to the mass being accelerated will change the force and calculated power.



All the above is old news to me.


2) Always allow 10 seconds after starting the car before giving it full throttle. During the first 10 seconds the car is warming up on different fuel and ignition tables.

running a cold car on the dyno is rather foolish, I never shut off a car on the dyno unless there is a failure or the customer requests it.


P.S. I always use a laptop on 96+ cars with the correct ECU to ensure proper consistency of ALL engine temps.

P.S.S. My software allows me to see when open/closed loop cycles are taking place, so "disconnecting" a factory sensor is not needed.