i need to know which brake fluid does not boil up while road racing! i had this problem when i raced in ebise! i'm using dot 2 valvoline from japan. i was told that motul is the best!? is that true? please, someone help me out.

 

castrol SRF

 

Castrol SRF. Nothing better.

 

thanks that's rad!

 

Mineral oil is off the chain.

 

Yup, Castrol SRF.

 

thanks guys really appreciate it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">castrol SRF</TD></TR></TABLE>
Be ready to part with a LOT of money for it. I'd try some Motul or Ate first to see if that solves your problem for a fraction of the cost.

 

Or Ford HD on a budget.

 

I use ATE. Have yet to boiled it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPiFF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use ATE. Have yet to boiled it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

really, never heard of this one, where can i find it?

 

http://www.ogracing.com

 

thanks, that helps.

 

Coblat Friction also stocks ATE.

 

cool i didn't know that

 

motul 600, have tried... havent been able to boil it

 

I've used Motul 600 and ATE SuperBlue/Typ200 and haven't had issues with either. This was in my '82 RX-7 racecar and my '89 Caprice street car.

 

i have boiled

ate super blue 2 different cars
ap racing 551 boilded in 2 different cars
ford hd boiled in my daily driver

we tried motul out this weekend at 15 bucks a quart and 3 quarts later....didn't get a chance to try and boil it cause i blew the engine up!!! see https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=555811 for all details

 

Yeah chad, I agree AP 551 sucks.....sat. practice I boiled it after 4 laps. I have boiled AP 551 more times than I like to admit. Thanks again for the Motul 600....didn't have brake problems sat. or sun. That stuff is great. I will be switching my ITA car over to that also for next SCCA race. Tell Dave I will send him some dough for those bottles.

 

So, here is a different point of view.

Brake fluid itself rerely boils. Its the water it has absorbed that typically boils and causes the soft pedal.

In the honda and in my Talon (a quite heavy carat over 3000lbs!) I used regular DOT 3/4/5. I would rather the brakes start to fade ( I can pump them up if I have to) then find the next weakest point in the system which will be the o ring on the caliper piston. When it goes you have NO brakes.

So, just make sure your fluid is REALLY fresh and you should have little problem.

 

The only fluid I've never had a problem with is Motul 600. Years ago I was chasing a brake fade problem, and was using Ford HD. Switched to Motul at Carbotech's reccomendation.

I have *never* had anything but good things to say about it and won't use anything else. It's a little pricey...but far cheaper than running out of brakes and balling up your car.

 

well with only about 14 laps of actual driving hard i'd say the mutol did its job...

 

The higher the boiling point (boiling temperature), the harder the fluid is to boil.

Dry boiling point is more meaningful for brake fluid that is reasonably fresh - which is (or, at least, should be) true for cars driven on the track. Wet boiling point is important if you plan to leave the brake fluid in the car for a long time without flushing - not a good idea for track use.

Here are the dry and wet boiling points for many of the most popular brake fluids:

ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF

ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF

As you can see, Cobalt Super XRF has really high boiling points, and at $12 for a 12-ounce can, the price is quite reasonable. You can order it from Andie at Cobalt Friction, the brake god who sells lots of great brake products at great prices.

 

i never imagined this would be so popular of a subject...thanks to all who have helped me and participated.

 

what is "dry" and "wet?"