This is a picture of the stock B16 Manifold...



Notice that it has 3 studs protruding from it where the fuel rail bolts to the manifold. But on the picture below (skunk2 mani.) there are threaded holes but not studs. I assume I should use bolts but what size?



Only 2 more questions!

2: There isn't a place on the Skunk2 manifold for the "Fast Idle Control valve".. Am I not to use it? What do I do with the coolant lines?

See, This is the Fast Idle control Valve on the stock manifold:



3: The stock manifold had an extension off the back of it downwards where it mounted (by means of 2 bolts) to the Intake Manifold Bracket. Problem is, the Skunk2 manifold doesn't have that available so am I suppose to install the manifold without any kind of support bracket?

Skunk2 mani below with nowhere to mount to bracket:




Thank you for all your time in advance, I could really use some guidance in these matters.

 

the fuel rail bolts i used the Old one from the stock manifold and switched it over to the skunk.

 

plug the collant lines. they are useless.

you dont need a bracket to support the manifold.

unscrew the fuel rail bolts and screw them back into the skunk one. DONT **** up the threads. if you do. just use 10mm bolts with some washers going into the manifold. works the same.

 

Ok, I'll see if I can answer for ya. I'll also have my friend chainsaw help ya out as well since I know he has a Skunk2 manifold.

I believe the bolts you will need is M8 x 1.25 threaded bolts.

For the fast idle valve, you do not need the coolant lines. Just by pass them and go directly in the thermostat housing. I believe the fast idle bolts up to the TB on OBD1 and OBD2 motors, when I took mine off. I'm not 100% sure, but if yours bolts up to the Intake Manifold, then I would suggest capping it off and not running the diaphram, or getting a GSR or ITR throttle body. You'll most likely want a throttle body that has a nipple off of it for the MAP sensor so you can run the OBD0 MAP sensor on your throttle body, unless you'll need to use an OBD1 or OBD2 MAP sensor as well as TPS and convert the plugs.

For the support bracket, I wouldn't worry about it. The torqued head bolts will hold the head on just fine.

Hopefully chainsaw will have some good advice for ya. Good luck bro

 

poison pretty much summed it up. ^

you can bypass the FICV, just make sure you let your car warm up on cold mornings.

as for the bolts, when you put them in, be careful. the threads are very soft and i have stripped 2 of mine before.

don't worry about the bracket, you don't need it.

hope this helps.

 

I thought that the Coolant lines were used to heat a fast idle wax plug that lowered the idle as the car warmed. WIth out them you would have an ile in excess of 1200 RPM. Anoyone else heard of this?

 

Poison.. Thank you very much for the help.. The TB has a nipple on top for the obdo map sensor. It's a "modified" JG TB.

So I think this pretty much solves all my problems... great! I'll find out if all these answers work in about 2 hours!

EDIT: and Chainsaw: do you live in Utah? Do I know you? (I used to know a person that went by the name "chainsaw" who went to Brighton High School.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice_classic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
EDIT: and Chainsaw: do you live in Utah? Do I know you? (I used to know a person that went by the name "chainsaw" who went to Brighton High School.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope, i grew up in NoVA.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chainsaw &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

nope, i grew up in NoVA. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Groovy.

Ok, now the only problem I have so far (I haven't mounted it all in the car yet) is that I can't get the damn screw out of the IAT sensor!!! I called honda and they want 60$ for that ******* sensor!!!!

Anyone know a trick on how to get a stuck screw out without drilling it out? (I just gave back the drill I borrowed and can't afford a new one right now)

 

no problem bro.

Thanks for helpin out chainsaw

Rice_Classic, you're referring to the mounting screws, correct?

Is the screw just cross threaded or wha? Try taking a pair of vice grips and putting a little pull force while turning it. It should come loose.

Just make sure you don't break the IAT.

 

Things just got much worse... The mounting point for the IAT sensor on the Skunk2 mani is WAY WRONG!... It's in the way of both the Fuel pressure regulator AND the throttle cable mounting bracket.

There's gotta be a better way! I need your help PLEASE.. I don't want to scrap the whole project!

Pics:

 

Looks to me like you need a new fuel rail and throtal cable braket.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks to me like you need a new fuel rail and throtal cable braket.</TD></TR></TABLE>

From what tho?

 

From where the IAT mounts, is exactly in the same position as an ITR.

The FPR is also to the far right from looking at it directly on an ITR fuel rail.

If that is where the FPR mounts on the B16, then I'd recommend grabbing an ITR fuel rail, and mount the regulator there.

As for the throttle cable, there is ways to make it work.

Where does the throttle cable bracket mount? And what one are you currently using?

 

Yes, you need ITR fuel rail. An aftermarket AEM for ITR would even be fine.

 

skunk2 manifolds are near ITR replicas from what I understand. get an ITR fuel rail and FPR, along with throttle cable bracket and throttle cable and you should be straight. i had to use an ITR cable in my EK when I swapped in a b18c5.

 

Wow look what I found

ITR throtal calbe and braket: http://www.inlinefour.com/oemintypthro.html

 

good find

 

i think they are cheaper at http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com, but don't know for sure. to lazy to check.

 

I ended up buying an AEM fuel rail (because it was cheaper than the stock rail.. AND I got it from the dealership!). Anyway, I also bought the ITR throttle cable bracket and cable but didn't need the cable.

So far things bolted up great, I used new washer and o-rings for the injectors and new gaskets for the TB and I.M.

Tomarrow I will be getting the hoses and bolts and what not I need to finish things up. Then after I start it I'm SURE that I'm gonna have issues with all the little **** like TPS and vacuum lines. Wish me luck!

 

good job, hope it was worth all that work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soakit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good job, hope it was worth all that work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not yet. It idles at 2k and the CEL comes on in vtec but isn't throwing any codes.

 

Ok.. nevermind that last post.

It's throwing a code 7... tps baby! I'm going to mount on my old one but before I do that I'm going to try to alter the position of the one that's on there.

Do TPS codes cause the motor to idle that high?


Modified by rice_classic at 11:46 PM 7/3/2003

 

usually high ideal is a vacume leak.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">usually high ideal is a vacume leak.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Does that mean the hoses? or could it be gaskets or something else?

I switched out TPS's and still the high idle. AHHHH!... I've already spent WAY too much time and money on this project.