A little help with rear Koni's...
Trying to install these bad boys on Pop's ITR. These were just sent to KONI to be re-valved, and converted to externally adjustable. The factory shock hat will not fit over the top of the shock. The only thing I can think of is, I was sent the wrong shock, maybe? ? Here are a few pic's. Any ideas?
This is how they arrived. These little bushings don't seem to be usable on the ITR. Any one have experience with these on a CRX, or ITR maybe they were mistakingly switched some how?

Thanks for the help.
This is how they arrived. These little bushings don't seem to be usable on the ITR. Any one have experience with these on a CRX, or ITR maybe they were mistakingly switched some how?
Thanks for the help.
I am assuming you mean the metal dust shield thing. if this is the case then yes the hat needs to be opened. I used a drill or you can use a grinder with a sanding bit. Does this make sense?
you can insert new hardware if you press out the old stuff from the shock hat. i did it. it's sort of ghetto, but it has held up fine. you'll need a true value store or even a fasteners type place to get what you need.
[QUOTE=BryanSprinkel]
i think that the externally adj's are thicker on the top side possibly.....

anyways, i just used a vise to press out the old hardware . i think it consisted of a sleeve and two washers. just take the shock with you to a fastener supply place, find sleeves that will fit, and get some heavy duty washers to go on both sides of the sleeve. good luck with it.
i think that the externally adj's are thicker on the top side possibly.....
anyways, i just used a vise to press out the old hardware . i think it consisted of a sleeve and two washers. just take the shock with you to a fastener supply place, find sleeves that will fit, and get some heavy duty washers to go on both sides of the sleeve. good luck with it.
If you're talking about that dust shield thingy at the very top, then yes, that needs to be drilled out. If you're talking about the actual upper hat that bolts to the tub of the car...that has a huge hole into which you put those bushings (or your stock bushings).
There is also a spacer that fits snugly around the shock shaft that fits up inside of the bushings...that's hugely important, as it keeps you from compressing the whole bushing assembly into mush when you tighten down the jam nut at the top of the shock.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BryanSprinkel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">converted to externally adjustable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ahh...When most of us think "Koni" we think the single (rebound) adjustable, "Yellows," or in Koni terminology, "Sports." What model shock did these start out life as? Were they on the car before? Sounds like they're different than mine.
I just bought and installed the Ground Control upper mount thingies and, if you need them, I'd be happy to bring the old stock upper hats to hyperfizzle. But you can't have my spacer, I had to use it with the new hats.
There is also a spacer that fits snugly around the shock shaft that fits up inside of the bushings...that's hugely important, as it keeps you from compressing the whole bushing assembly into mush when you tighten down the jam nut at the top of the shock.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BryanSprinkel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">converted to externally adjustable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ahh...When most of us think "Koni" we think the single (rebound) adjustable, "Yellows," or in Koni terminology, "Sports." What model shock did these start out life as? Were they on the car before? Sounds like they're different than mine.
I just bought and installed the Ground Control upper mount thingies and, if you need them, I'd be happy to bring the old stock upper hats to hyperfizzle. But you can't have my spacer, I had to use it with the new hats.
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The rear shocks were changed from internally adjustable to extgernally adjustable so the pin diameter must increase from 10mm like OE to 12 mm so the rod can be strong enough to be hollow and not too weak. I was out of the office most this week so I did not see the shocks before they shipped (I don't on most shop projects) and don't know what hardware was with them.
Did those nuts and washers come in a bag of hardware that has some steel tube sleeves in them? Those sleeves fit over the OD of your new 12 mm pin and go inside your factory rubber bushings. I have seen a few Type Rs with the same bushing as the S2000 where the top rubbers are molded onto the stock 10mm ID sleeve such that the rubbers can't be seperated so you would need to drill that out to 12mm. Very uncommon but some Type Rs seemed to get that bushing.
What are those rubber bushings that you have on there in the pic? I don't think they are from the Honda family as you usually just reuse your factory rubbers because they are good quality and rarely need replacing. If you want to reuse the factory dust cover (can't if you are doping a coil-over sleeve perch system) then you will need to drill it's hole from 10mm to 12mm. Check you PM.
Did those nuts and washers come in a bag of hardware that has some steel tube sleeves in them? Those sleeves fit over the OD of your new 12 mm pin and go inside your factory rubber bushings. I have seen a few Type Rs with the same bushing as the S2000 where the top rubbers are molded onto the stock 10mm ID sleeve such that the rubbers can't be seperated so you would need to drill that out to 12mm. Very uncommon but some Type Rs seemed to get that bushing.
What are those rubber bushings that you have on there in the pic? I don't think they are from the Honda family as you usually just reuse your factory rubbers because they are good quality and rarely need replacing. If you want to reuse the factory dust cover (can't if you are doping a coil-over sleeve perch system) then you will need to drill it's hole from 10mm to 12mm. Check you PM.
You can re-use all of your stock hardware *except* the metal sleeve that came in the koni box (and assorted washers for the shocks of course). You stuff the metal sleeve that came in the koni box in to your stock upper hats and install. It will fit, dont worry... l00b it up and use a socket to p ress it in.
RJ
RJ
This is what I am referring to when I say shock hat. My first thought was just to drill out the metal piece in the bushing, but I wanted to ask if I was mistakingly given the wrong bushings by Koni, and if it was easier just to get new bushings, rather than drilling the old bushings. whew.... talk about a run on sentence..
This is al of the hardware I have.
Lastly, the new and old shock together.
Ok, so will there be any ill effects if I were to drill the stock bushing and slap them on?
Thanks
Almost forgot.. I want to give Lee a big
for going out of his way to offer help via IM.
Oh, and in the orignal post, I meant wrong bushing, not "wrong shock"
thanks to everyone else for offering advice as well..
This is al of the hardware I have.
Lastly, the new and old shock together.
Ok, so will there be any ill effects if I were to drill the stock bushing and slap them on?
Thanks
Almost forgot.. I want to give Lee a big
for going out of his way to offer help via IM. Oh, and in the orignal post, I meant wrong bushing, not "wrong shock"
thanks to everyone else for offering advice as well..
Drill out those stock rubber mounts, unless of course the rubber bushings that koni supplied fit in the stock upper mount. If they do, use them. If not, drill out the stock rubber and dont forget the metal sleeve that goes in there. I'd bet you can just stuff the metal sleeve (use a socket the same size as the sleeve and some leverage) into the stock bushings as they're probably pretty worn by now.
RJ
RJ
Pitch those new rubbers, I don't know why they were included. Look at the bottom washer shown in the upper spring seat in the pic. If that washer is bonded to the rubber and inner steel sleeve and doesn't pop right off, then it is one of the S2000 type mounts that don't just drop apart into it's component pieces. Drill it out to 12mm (1/2 inch bit will do as it is about 12.7mm) but you may want to oversize/wallow it a tad to make it slide through easier. If you can, use some Tap Magic cutting oil to aide the drilling and take your time. Then pit the pin detail in and the welded ring on the shock rod will sit on the bottom washer you drilled. Use one of the cupped washers on the top under the nuts cup faced up and that is it. Bump the top nut down tight by hand (no air or impact tools) then bump the jam nut into it snugly.
One more pic, notice the difference in size between toe two bushings.
Oh yeah, and for those that havent seen Pop's new rubber...
show car!
Oh yeah, and for those that havent seen Pop's new rubber...
show car!
I had a machine shop drill out the stockers. You can use a drill, but I hate the guessing game. TC didn't bother telling me this either when they shipped me my setup. I had some other minor hardware issues too w/ my TC setup :-/
Warren
Warren
Shocks are on the car, and working great.
Just needed a 1/2 inch drill bit, and a little elbow grease..
Thanks to everyone that offered advice, and a big
to CRX Lee.
Just needed a 1/2 inch drill bit, and a little elbow grease..
Thanks to everyone that offered advice, and a big
to CRX Lee.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BryanSprinkel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Shocks are on the car, and working great.
Just needed a 1/2 inch drill bit, and a little elbow grease..
Thanks to everyone that offered advice, and a big
to CRX Lee. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I had the same thing a while back with and had a maching shop drill them out.
Just needed a 1/2 inch drill bit, and a little elbow grease..
Thanks to everyone that offered advice, and a big
to CRX Lee. </TD></TR></TABLE>I had the same thing a while back with and had a maching shop drill them out.
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