Which would be the best possible and safest way to go with the b20 non-vtec...i was thinking turbo or nitrous....i have heard a lot about sleeves cracking and ppl having nightmares over this situation...how could i protect myself from this inconsistency...? Thanks

 

Resleeve the block before adding boost

 

I have a CTR tranny which is the same as a USDM ITR tranny mated to my JDM B20B block (DC2). I dont have any intentions of adding forced induction to make power. For what I do, natural aspiration will serve better.

There are no performance upgrades pertaining to the motor with the exception of a DC 4-1 and a K&N drop in filter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KimChiKid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which would be the best possible and safest way to go with the b20 non-vtec...i was thinking turbo or nitrous....i have heard a lot about sleeves cracking and ppl having nightmares over this situation...how could i protect myself from this inconsistency...? Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sleeves crank when you get boost happy.

7psi will be fine.

 

i would NOT suggest boosting over 8 on STOCK shitty B20 sleeves....

here's proof.....

BEFORE 10psi...


AFTER 10psi...


thanks to djdxm for the pics

 

if i had a b20 it would just have crower internals with jdm itr tranny skank2 manifold. b20 and forced induction you might as well sleeve an ls block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KimChiKid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how could i protect myself from this inconsistency...? Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

go the cheaper/more performance friendly way by getting an LS