Hi, I was wondering if this is a good deal. It is a 1995 integra ls conversion to a type R and a supra llight. It got the whole interior type-r and the paint is pretty good. But the engine is a bit shakely. Mabye because of a new engine swap. It is a B20B with cam gears, pulleys and others. I think it has a type-r dash. Because the rpm it goes to 10 but when I drove the car once it hit to 7000 rpm it wont' go any farther. So u have to shift it. What do you guys think? Is it worth it? O yea one more thing. Is it common that the engine idio (think that how u spell it) like when you start the car it shakes and the rpm move up and down? This car the rpm move a lot.



Modified by Aznracer23 at 5:47 AM 6/25/2003

 

Personally I wouldn't purchase a deeply modified car like so.. but thats just me and 13k sounds a bit steep for a 95ls.

Im just curious as to how the doors are modded to do that.. whats the procedure like...

 

like i have said many times before....worth is a value that can only be measured in the eyes of the beholder.

 

seems kinda fishy. Even my GS-R goes past 7K. I would be a little weary putting my hard earned money into something you don't know the history on. I don't Carfax would even help you on this since most of the parts are swapped out. I could be wrong though.

 

It has already been worked and beat on so it is pretty much a hand-me-down. Thats all I think about when my friends ask me if they should buy an already worked car. Go for bone stock, you have less/nothing to worry about

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aznracer23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.......But the engine is a bit shakely. Mabye because of a new engine swap. It is a B20B with cam gears, pulleys and others. I think it has a type-r dash. Because the rpm it goes to 10 but when I drove the car once it hit to 7000 rpm it wont' go any farther. So u have to shift it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I don't know what the redline is on a CRV motor but I don't believe its any higher than 7000rpm. That's probably why it doesn't rev any higher than that.

 

[QUOTE=kendogg]Personally I wouldn't purchase a deeply modified car like so.. but thats just me and 13k sounds a bit steep for a 95ls.
QUOTE]

that's what I'm saying. Dont buy into someone elses speed or ghetto swan style doors with home depot hinges.

 

ew

i'd rather buy 13,000 jumbo jacks with that money.

 

Save your money and keep on looking, There a 97 ITR for 14,500 near me thats what I would save for befor that. My .02 though.

 

I personally think its worth it though a little ricey if you like it (what counts) then go for it, It looks like it has pretty clean work done so I say go for it

 

could still have the ls ecu

 

sounds and looks like a piece of **** sorry if thats a little harsh but .02 cents hurts somtimes

 

nice color and nice front end the end

 

ehh, well its a nice looking car, i could do without the lambo doors, but yeah, he could be running a p28 which has a low *** RL.

 

It's worth it, those ducts on the side keep the rear wheels nice and cool, that's priceless Mr Spilner

 

if your into the show scene, then go for it.........its your choice to spend whatever you want on whatever you like. If its worth 13g's to you, get it regardless of what anyone says.

 

If he has stock b20 pistons that is what is holding him back, The jdm b20 go to 9000 or higher if i am not mistaken.

It could be the ecu as earlier stated hope that helps. If you like the car than go for it that is all that matters. Hope that helps.

 

looks like and Ls shell, with some type R seats and gauges, that needs a B18 swap. it has a clean bod (sorta) but those doors are a toss up. depends on how the workman ship is on them. but as for 13k. i would say no.. maybe 7k at the most.

you never get back what you pay for. it don't matter if you just spent
$10k on the body work, that doesn't raise the price of the car $10k

 

maybe it doesnt pass 7k RPM because it redlines at 6900rpm (NONVTEC)motor ... yall dont know?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Typiko512 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ew

i'd rather buy 13,000 jumbo jacks with that money. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hell yes.

That thing's not what I'd fancy.

 

the body looks like its in great condition and that they were going down the show car path. id fix whatevers wrong with the engine before driving it much, and especially before driving it hard. the b20 isnt a high performance engine, but with a jackson racing supercharger with a good amount of boost you could have a nice amount of torque pulled out of that engine and have one fun ride. id say if your willing to put a little more cash into it for possible repairs, go for it; although it may be a future hunk of junk. its your call

 

woulndnt buy it

 

By the sound of it, I don't think purchasing this would be a wise decision for you to go ahead with.

 

for show: yes
for speed: no

just my .02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mystery machine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If he has stock b20 pistons that is what is holding him back, The jdm b20 go to 9000 or higher if i am not mistaken.

It could be the ecu as earlier stated hope that helps. If you like the car than go for it that is all that matters. Hope that helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hope your kidding. Jeez the things people say on this board are absolutely amazing. It redlines at 6900-7K as the other user stated. That is why you can't rev past it!!! As for cooling the rear brakes, I highly even doubt that its a functional duct. Yes those look like ITR front seats, hard to tell from the pick though. An ITR gauge cluster does not mean it has an ITR dash. Not that theres a difference anyways cept the guages light up amber. As for the P-28 comment, I am sure the car still has the P-75 ecu in it seeing as it had a LS motor originally.

Think of a B20 motor as a big LS motor. Thats all it is. Everything else is the same generally speaking. If it idles crappy, it may only need to be tuned. Might just need a new cap and rotor. Run a leak down test to test the engines integrity.

Would I buy the car? Nope. But its your money.