https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=543160

I found this deal earlier, thought some of you may need fluid.

 

Just remember, the higher the boiling points for brake fluid, the better, because the more resistant it will be to boiling. Here are the dry and wet boiling points for many of the most popular brake fluids:

ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF

ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF

Cobalt Super XRF has really high boiling points, and at $11.99 for a 12-ounce bottle, the price is quite reasonable. For a few bucks more than ATE, you get way better protection against boil-over. You can order it from Andie at Cobalt Friction, the brake god who sells lots of great brake products at great prices.

 

Ken,

Any idea how long Cobalt Super XRF lasts until it starts absorbing moisture? I know ATE is real good at not absorbing moisture so I don't have to flush the lines real often. I don't see track use that often so for me that was why I choose it.

Also, is the Cobalt stuff in a metal or plastic container. Again, since I don't track alot I end up storing for awhile and it was mentioned once that the metal containers are much better for extended storage.

 

I don't know. However, I don't think there is a big difference between metal cans and plastic bottles in terms of the absorption of moisture, as long as both are sealed.

And I would not recommend storing brake fluid for an extended period, because of its ability to absorb moisture, regardless of the container. You're better off just getting as much as you need right away. Unlike many other car parts (brake pads, rotors, etc), brake fluid is not something you should stock up on and keep for a long period of time, even if you see a deal on it.

 

The cobalt stuff is in a metal container - corey has gone 2-3 weekends w/o bleeding the brakes also, so it must be good at not absorbing moisture.

As for the cost issue in the other thread - what if you use half a can of ATE, let it sit around for two months and then throw it away. Is it really that much cheaper than motul/cobalt fluid where you use all of it since its in a smaller bottle?

RJ

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The cobalt stuff is in a metal container - corey has gone 2-3 weekends w/o bleeding the brakes also, so it must be good at not absorbing moisture.

As for the cost issue in the other thread - what if you use half a can of ATE, let it sit around for two months and then throw it away. Is it really that much cheaper than motul/cobalt fluid where you use all of it since its in a smaller bottle?

RJ</TD></TR></TABLE>

Clutch + Brake flush = 1 bottle of ATE.

of course, I never do my clutch fluid, instead I just remove paint with the remainder

 

Well, i can flush a system with 1/2 a bottle of ATE. Then it sits around, maybe good for a bleed later then i toss it. What if i need to bleed again? Open another bottle... use some... sits for a while, bleed again, gets tossed. Am i really spending less than if i bought the cobalt stuff in little bottles? I'm not so sure.

RJ

 

Well I was kind of hoping to flush less than 2-3 weekends. I am wanting to go about 2 months without having to flush. Is that possible?

 

2 months? I haven't flushed me brake fluid since oct 01.. :shrugs:

 

Are you talking about flushing or bleeding?

Flushing every 2-3 weeks is quite a bit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onyx00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I was kind of hoping to flush less than 2-3 weekends. I am wanting to go about 2 months without having to flush. Is that possible?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure.

My rule of thumb is that any time I'm using cars on the track, the brake fluid should have been flushed in the previous 6-8 months. Thus, I flush the fluid once a year, every spring, at the start of the track season which is 6-8 months long. I keep using the car over the winter, when there are no track events so it's okay if it's been 8-12 months since flushing.

I don't usually bleed between flushes.

If I lived in the Sunbelt and I were driving in track events all year 'round, I would flush the fluid twice a year. But I don't.

Honda's recommendation, which is not specific to track-driven cars, is that the brake fluid should be flushed every 30K miles or every 24 months, whichever comes first. That's probably a good criterion for cars that aren't driven on the track (and aren't driven on the street as though they were on the track).