hey im going to be needing to trail a rex to local road race events.
any of u that do trail your cars. did u buy the trailor? or did u build it?
how hard is it to build a trailor? what is needed?

i want something basic. maybe some sort of axel 2 wheels or maybe 2 axels and 4 wheels i dont know what the best way to do this would be. using thick wood as the platform. thats just something i've seen.

how much would materials cost?
anyone have blue prints or plans with dimentions?

any info would help thanx

 

Drive out to one of the NASA or PAS events at Firebird and look at the dozens of trailer ideas that are parked there. People bring just about everything from enclosed camper/trailers to tow dollies. Bottom line, bought or build, use two axles and brakes.

 

Wow that's one busted looking post. Anyway...

I bought my trailEr second hand for 1200 bucks. 18 foor open deck dovetail with brakes on both axles. Look for the following...

- Good wiring that is well insulated. Trailers vibrate a lot and exposed wires = lights that don't work.
- Two axles. Everyone I've seen who tows even a small car on a little dinky one axle trailer bitches about it.
- Brakes on at least one axle.
- Spare tire

 

I have a '98 Toyota Tacoma V6 Xtra Cab 5-speed. Not the best for towing, but it gets up to speed quick enough, I added an extra-leaf spring in the rear, so it is good.

I bought a 16', open deck, beaver tail, double axle with brakes on both axles.

The main thing is to make sure the trailer has good brakes. I first towed with a Uhaul trailer that had surge brakes. They suck! My trailer has electric brakes. They are night and day !!! Electrics brakes are great !!

 

whats a price range id be looking at? for 2 axels with good brakes. it doesnt need to be enclosed just basic

 

I paid $1400 new for your standard open metal deck, two axle, brakes, dove-tail. I never found a good deal used, since mose used trailers just like mine were selling for like $1200-1300.

 

I know you asked about the trailer, and you gotten some good feedback there already. Don't forget to consider what you're towing with before making a final decision on a trailer. If it's an F-350 Powerstroke, then anything you buy will be fine. If it's a Ford Ranger, you need to think about how heavy it is. You may have already thought about that part, and if so, disregard this, but if you haven't, definitely bear it in mind.

 

its a 98 wrangler 4.0L sahara.

but i know that it cant tow too much. about 3,000 or less i think

im thinking id rather try to make it street legal and then drive it to the track. then i can have some fun on the roads on the weekends

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugensport9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a 98 wrangler 4.0L sahara. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm, that sounds like a deeath wish and a half to be using it as a tow vehicle.

Worlds shortest wheelbase, , high center of gravity, a little weak in the power department...

If I were you, I'd just look into a $100 tow bar and flat tow the car. The only problem is the car will have to have tags on it.

Scott

edit: spllenig


Modified by celica73 at 1:19 PM 6/20/2003

 

Recently completed the purchase of our tow setup. It really depends on what you want to spend and the car you plan to tow. Personally, I wanted a trailer with a solid deck and the ability to tow the CRX, Prelude and a friends 64 Fairlane or Cobra. Wound up with a 20' R&R all-aluminum trailer and Dodge Dakota w/4.7L 5 speed automatic. Here in PA we have to contend with a lot ofhills. I agree with Travis that you should get a 2 axle trailer, balances the weight out better, with electric brakes. You will need to consider the difference in weight of an aluminum trailer versus a steel one. Make sure you fully understand towing capacity, tongue weight and hitch requirements of the truck. It should come with a 7-pin connector for the trailer wiring harness to plug into.

There are a lot of brands of trailer. I originally planned on steel and Bri-Mar is an excellent choice. Our trailer is open . This makes the towing requirements easier to deal with. If you can go with an F250 for instance-then a Haulmark or Featherlight closed trailer is a great choice as these provide you with more than space for the car. Definitely go to a track and check out what others use. Something else to consider is installing a Superwinch-just a nice option to have.

Good luck. The websites are there and many dealers work with folks from all over the country. Plan to spend anywhere from $1995 to $5000 for an open trailer. You can tack ON as much as $4000 more for a 24'-28' closed unit. Used trailers are also available at very nice prices.


Modified by jc836 at 8:13 PM 6/20/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugensport9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a 98 wrangler 4.0L sahara.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yikes. Gotta agree with Scottt on this one. Flat tow or tow dolly.

My original tow vehicle was a Cherokee Sport 4.0L, and original trailer was a small single axle, relatively light trailer, pulling a Miata (also not particularly heavy). I had a bigger radiator put on to help with cooling, but on hot hot days, it still wasn't all that happy. I'd recommend, with something as small as a Wrangler, not to go for more than a tow dolly, or a REALLY light trailer (Aluminum if you can, but that's *really* expensive).

 

you wont be able to tow a car with that, tow dolley no problem, 16ft trailer and car HELLLL NO
The rear suspension is way way to soft, it will sit on the bump stops (from experience). The truck has more then enough power to tow it, just not the suspension to handle it.
Not only that but you want at least a 4000lb hitch, good luck finding a hitch rated at more than 2500lbs for your jeep

One Jeep that tows well is a grand Cheroke with the V8

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zc911 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One Jeep that tows well is a grand Cheroke with the V8</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's the best tow vehicle jeep makes, but it isn't great. A friend towed a 15' open deck steel trailer and an old bmw with one for a couple years and the best thing he ever said about it was that it was adequete. He also has an enclosed trailer and the GC would only pull it on flat ground, which was ok when he lived in florida, not so good for going from dc to summit point.

wrangler and flat towing? it'll go ok, but will it stop ok? I dont know, I'm just asking. I've flat towed behind my chevy 2500, and that was ok, but i did have to watch my stopping distance quite a bit.

joel

 

warngler WILL NOT TOW A FLAT BED WITH A CAR
The rear suspesion will rest on the bump stops

 

Anyone have experience towing with a Toyota Forerunner with a V6?? Don't wanna be the NOOB stealing a thread..... , but this got me thinking. I'll be towing a CRX as well, and was thinking of possibly trying to find an enclosed trailer. Trying to find a tow rig that I can use as a daily driver as well without goin' broke on the Chevron card. Any thoughts on that? Tks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by celica73 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I were you, I'd just look into a $100 tow bar and flat tow the car. The only problem is the car will have to have tags on it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well there's that, and when you go off course and smash up something or screw up your suspension (like I did at the last race) you'll not be able to flat tow it home. Then what do ya do? You're screwed. And can you really drive 10/10ths all day when you know that if you wreck you can't get your car home? Nope.

So get a trailer - but also get a decent tow vehicle too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shortbus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone have experience towing with a Toyota Forerunner with a V6?? Don't wanna be the NOOB stealing a thread..... , but this got me thinking. I'll be towing a CRX as well, and was thinking of possibly trying to find an enclosed trailer. Trying to find a tow rig that I can use as a daily driver as well without goin' broke on the Chevron card. Any thoughts on that? Tks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Enclodes trailer? No way. But it should pull a normal open trailer fine (assuming the car is lightweight and the trailer has good brakes).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zc911 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">warngler WILL NOT TOW A FLAT BED WITH A CAR
The rear suspesion will rest on the bump stops</TD></TR></TABLE>

comeon.. As long as the tongue weight is balanced out, it won't be riding the bumpstops. But it's still not a safe choice.

 

Indeed your present tow vehicle, well, is not.

I tow with an old 87 Ford Crown vic. Tow an open Aluminum trailer and a light Civic si but have towed a steel trailer and my Talon AWD. No problem to and back from Watkin's Glen. A body on frame (not unibody) car like the Crown vic can be had cheap and does a fine job with the addition of air shocks in back (something like $60 a piece from Pep Boys). Can be "deflated" when not towing for a comfortable ride.

On the trailer you have already gotten sound advice.

Good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Enclodes trailer? No way. But it should pull a normal open trailer fine (assuming the car is lightweight and the trailer has good brakes).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks. I REALLY don't know what to pick up for my tow rig/daily driver. I kinda thought that I'd either get a truck and an enclosed trailer, or a SUV and an open trailer. I just want somewhere to safely stow all my spares/tools/etc... The problem is that it needs to be usable in all weather, and I'd like for it to get semi-decent mileage. Maybe I should stick with an open trailer and a 4runner. Or
"4skinner" as my buddy calls his.

Any suggestions???

Thanks again!

 

Brad... 1/2 ton V-8 at a minimum.

Everyone talks about towing capacity but remember on any given race weekend you'll haul another 400-500 pounds in the bed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by celica73 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If I were you, I'd just look into a $100 tow bar and flat tow the car. The only problem is the car will have to have tags on it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

okay on my wrangler i do have a tow hitch welded to the frame. its an aftermarket one that my dad got.

but im a n00b with towing so what is flat tow? is it no trailor, and i get a tow hook in the front of the rex and let it ride on 4 wheels?

is that safe? what about steering wont the front wheels want to move the opposite dirrection oround turns and things?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bulldog_RS20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brad... 1/2 ton V-8 at a minimum.

Everyone talks about towing capacity but remember on any given race weekend you'll haul another 400-500 pounds in the bed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Which brings up a couple of things that you should consider.

Body on frame vehicles work best as tow vehicles. Period.

You need to consider the GVWR & the GCWR. GVWR is basically how much the vehicle can hold which includes tongue weight, people & cargo. GCWR refers to the max. combined weight of the loaded tow vehicle & trailer. Don't go over these limits.

Is the tow capacity listed for weight carrying or weight distributing? Many people look @ the max. tow rating listed for smaller trucks/suvs. They don't realize that on the lighter vehicles, you may be looking @ a rating using a wd set up. Usually, anything over 500 lbs tongue/5k lbs total should be towed with a weight distributing system on full size trucks & suvs. This is not always the case with the smaller trucks/suvs/crossover vehicles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bulldog_RS20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brad... 1/2 ton V-8 at a minimum.

Everyone talks about towing capacity but remember on any given race weekend you'll haul another 400-500 pounds in the bed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey Greg...

As you know, I chase cargo ships around for a living. Brutal years are 40-45k miles, and the slow years like now are approx 30k. I was kinda hoping to find something like Batoutahell was talking about. A "reasonable" daily driver that can tow as well. I was thinking that a Toyota 4Skinner would be a pretty nice compromise as long as I was only gonna tow an open trailer. If I went enclosed, then all bets are off for a compromise vehicle. Might as well get a big fat Dodge Cummins powered 1 ton dually crew cab!

First I've gotta finish the car though....

 

Are you freakin' serious? I call mine a 4Skinner! That's so freakin' funny! My other name I came up with today is the 4Player. hehe. I use mine to tow my R with an open deck trailer. It's about 1800-2000 pounds, plus the car at 2600. I get pretty close to the max capacity. It's not extremely happy pulling, but if it's flat it's fine. I wish I had more power and a much stiffer suspension, but it's a good tradeoff. It's great in the winter. It's decent to drive, and I can fit my friends in it when we go out.