Yokohama/Advan A032R...Do I want H or S compound?
I read many of the archived threads but never got a firm answer.
I am purchasing some A032R's for track use only, so no street driving. Will I want the S or the H compound?
Also, I will heat cycle them, but is shaving neccessary?
And I have heard that driving 50 or so miles on the highway is a "cheap" alternative to heat cycling, is this a true fact?
Thanks in advance,
Marshall
I am purchasing some A032R's for track use only, so no street driving. Will I want the S or the H compound?
Also, I will heat cycle them, but is shaving neccessary?
And I have heard that driving 50 or so miles on the highway is a "cheap" alternative to heat cycling, is this a true fact?
Thanks in advance,
Marshall
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I read many of the archived threads but never got a firm answer.
I am purchasing some A032R's for track use only, so no street driving. Will I want the S or the H compound?
How long do you want them to last? H's are awesome for longevity but the S' will have more adhesion
Also, I will heat cycle them, but is shaving neccessary?
unless you are racing - don't bother with the shaving
And I have heard that driving 50 or so miles on the highway is a "cheap" alternative to heat cycling, is this a true fact?
yes - get them warm then let them cool down completely
Thanks in advance,
Marshall</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am purchasing some A032R's for track use only, so no street driving. Will I want the S or the H compound?
How long do you want them to last? H's are awesome for longevity but the S' will have more adhesion
Also, I will heat cycle them, but is shaving neccessary?
unless you are racing - don't bother with the shaving
And I have heard that driving 50 or so miles on the highway is a "cheap" alternative to heat cycling, is this a true fact?
yes - get them warm then let them cool down completely
Thanks in advance,
Marshall</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks.
As for longetivity, I want them to last at least one year, which consists of about 6-8 lapping days, with ~3-4hrs of total on-track lapping time each day.
So would I benefit then from shaving the tires? Does this increase the life? Or just traction...? Assuming I use them for the sole purpose of track events.
About how long would a good highway drive be for a complete heat cycle. I am driving down to Portland for a race day the 26th, but that is almost 200 miles. If I use that highway time (from Seattle to Portland) for a heat cycle, will that be 'too much'?
Sorry for all the n00b questions, these are my first set of R-compounds.
As for longetivity, I want them to last at least one year, which consists of about 6-8 lapping days, with ~3-4hrs of total on-track lapping time each day.
So would I benefit then from shaving the tires? Does this increase the life? Or just traction...? Assuming I use them for the sole purpose of track events.
About how long would a good highway drive be for a complete heat cycle. I am driving down to Portland for a race day the 26th, but that is almost 200 miles. If I use that highway time (from Seattle to Portland) for a heat cycle, will that be 'too much'?
Sorry for all the n00b questions, these are my first set of R-compounds.
Shaving just gets you to the optimal tread depth for racing - not necessary for you. It will decrease the life of the tires. On "unshaved" (is that a word?) tires - You may find the tread "squirms" a bit when they are new - but that's ok - you should give yourself some time to get used to the much higher grip levels these tires will give you. Then - as they wear down - you will find the traction gets better and better.
3-4 HOURS/per track event is A LOT! I usually get 4-5 20 minute sessions and that really works the tires good. I would definitely suggest the H compound if you intend to use them that much. Most SCCA races are <1 hr - what you will be doing is equivalent to endurance racing/driving which is the H compound is a better choice for.
Your drive to Portland will be perfect - PIR is a great track with lots of flat runoff areas - just keep off the back wall ok?
If you look in the RoadRace/AutoX forum - JohnG has posted some good in-car video of RR98ITR (Scott) doing laps there during Rose Cup. Scott knows the track very well and the videos show you the ideal race line.
BTW - A032Rs hum like a **** on the highway. You might want to get some earplugs. Just a suggestion.
PIR:
Modified by Big Phat R at 5:04 PM 6/18/2003
3-4 HOURS/per track event is A LOT! I usually get 4-5 20 minute sessions and that really works the tires good. I would definitely suggest the H compound if you intend to use them that much. Most SCCA races are <1 hr - what you will be doing is equivalent to endurance racing/driving which is the H compound is a better choice for.
Your drive to Portland will be perfect - PIR is a great track with lots of flat runoff areas - just keep off the back wall ok?
If you look in the RoadRace/AutoX forum - JohnG has posted some good in-car video of RR98ITR (Scott) doing laps there during Rose Cup. Scott knows the track very well and the videos show you the ideal race line.
BTW - A032Rs hum like a **** on the highway. You might want to get some earplugs. Just a suggestion.
PIR:
Modified by Big Phat R at 5:04 PM 6/18/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Phat R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PIR:
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks....... Fast
Don't shave the tires unless competiting to win. Open track days are meant to be fun, safe days. No reason to waste money by shaving tires to be a little faster. After a few events you'll be at optimal treads depth anyways, and will be a better drive anyways.
I suggest breaking teh tires in a bit before going to the track. That was you wont get new tread slippage. 200 easy street miles with a good normal camber will wear the factory gun off just nicely
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks....... Fast
Don't shave the tires unless competiting to win. Open track days are meant to be fun, safe days. No reason to waste money by shaving tires to be a little faster. After a few events you'll be at optimal treads depth anyways, and will be a better drive anyways.
I suggest breaking teh tires in a bit before going to the track. That was you wont get new tread slippage. 200 easy street miles with a good normal camber will wear the factory gun off just nicely
Thanks all.
I go in for another alignment tuesday, so I'll make sure to have them camber it a little more even than my last alignment (I had them set it up for track use before).
PIR is a fast track. I'm expecting to see 170ish in the supra and 140 in the teg, gear limited of course
I'm hoping to see a big difference between the RE-010's and the A032R's...BIG...
Definately no shaving if it just means I get to the meat of the tire quicker...screw that.
Well, I think I got the info I was looking for, thanks guys.
H-T
I go in for another alignment tuesday, so I'll make sure to have them camber it a little more even than my last alignment (I had them set it up for track use before).
PIR is a fast track. I'm expecting to see 170ish in the supra and 140 in the teg, gear limited of course
I'm hoping to see a big difference between the RE-010's and the A032R's...BIG...
Definately no shaving if it just means I get to the meat of the tire quicker...screw that.
Well, I think I got the info I was looking for, thanks guys.
H-T
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