....just out of curiosity.

I can't count how many times i have read "...if you build it right you'll be fine" blah blah blah.

I havent really once see anyone explain what this means(maybe i missed the thread?). Yeah i understand an experienced engine builder or a good machine shop helps, but thats common sense.

So could someone shed some light on this topic?


Mike

 

well assuming your funds are unlimited i'd say get the thing stroked (as well as bored and sleeved) as to handle higher rpms for long periods of time, p&p the head, maybe a cam, oversized valves and beefed up valve springs, strong connecting rods/pistons, upgrade or modify the existing oil pump, external water pump and the usual upgraded fuel system to tune properly etc.

edit: i've never built one myself but if i happen to do such a thing thats what i'd do

 

visit http://www.c-speedracing.com ...I recommend using aftermarket rods and pistons(.The LS rods and b20 rods were not designed to be reved high like the rods from a vtec motor...So your safest bet would be to replace the rods and pistons with aftermarket from Eagle or JE...Even type R rods and pistons would work...Though with proper tuning and stock ls rods will hold ok...Make sure to use ARP headbolts and torque them down to 72lbs...Also using the right size oil lines and fittings make a huge difference.....Thats pretty much the basics...With the stock ls/b20 rods you may be limting your revs to about 8000..Though Ive taken my friends stock LSvtec to 9200...It all depends...How old the motor is plays a huge role and how often you decide to beat on it...thats all i can think of right now...anything else?

Note even if your bottom ends has pistons and rods and sleeves etc...You may have to upgrade valves, springs, retainers, and pretty much the entire head to accomadate those high revs...

 

Im asking from more of a reliability stand point. I understand that aftermarket rods help but i was just curious, aside from the basic parts list, what makes a ls/vtec reliable.


Mike

 

Not the most knowledgable dude, but I've had a b20/vtec for over 20,000 miles now. Running hard and redline 8k for maybe 8k miles?

Anyway, I'm running stock bottom end, 10:1 compression, jun 2 cams, crower titanium valve springs and retainers.

Ran it for over 80 minutes total (not all at once) in vtec range (6k-8k) on saturday at a road race event. Still runs fine.

Things you can do to up reliability:

1) Do like the first guy said and improve rod/stroke ratio

2) If you keep stock rods, use GSR rod bolts

3) use ARP head studs

4) upgrade entire valvetrain

5) block girdle, not too familiar with, lots of debate over this though

6) Change oil often!

7) Make sure to have rev limiter (whether ECU, MSD ignition, etc)

8) Get some engine mount inserts to prevent motor from jolting and reduce vibrations.

9) Find yourself a low mileage motor.

10) Drive like a grandma. (No offense to you grannies out there)

 

I am approaching 20k myself since Sept, I do a lot of driving. I just did a lot of research and weeded through the BS. I replaced just about everything, beefed some stuff up and I dont absolutely beat it into the ground.

 

Its very simple.
Balance everything.
If using stock rods, replace rod bolts and REBORE the big end of the rod. <--very important
if using stockpistons, enlarge valve reliefs.
Girdle is optional, but if you choose to use one, install dowels in the girdle and
have the mains align honed afterwards. <-- also very important

And thats pretty much it.

 

yeah, if you wanna go overboard and make the biggest, badest b20vtec, check out this article...

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/badtothebone/

it even reminds you to shorten the dowel pins if you mill your head (i forgot to do this but i am upto 5'000ks no leaks)

anyways, i think the point is that attention to detail IS the key...

t..

 

how do you build a reliable ls/vtec you ask?

you have to be mechanically incline enough and smart enough to use all the resources out there on the internet, and then begin your buildup. take everyones good advices and decide how much of that can you afford to spend. take everyones bad situations and remedy that. take someones mistakes and find a way to fix it.
i recently just built an ls/vtec. this is not a decision i made in a day, i took a few weeks to decide if i wanted to do it and then it took me about 4mths. to get it done. i read h-t over and over about ls/vtecs, i read the old one, c-speed, honda hybrids and miscelaneous sites too. i spent about 35 hundred on the bottom end alone. i haven't even touch the head yet. the motor has 376 miles on it right now, it doesn't leak, hesitate, idle funny or anything, but it does haul ***. everything that everyone said in the topics before are true, just decide how much you want to spend on it.
i have 3 friends with ls/vtecs. the first one is a 97 teg, he beats on this thing daily on the streets and on the track. at first it leaked oil like a bitch from the head. he went threw 3 headgaskets in 1mth trying to fix this. all it was, was the 1/8th tap under the head leaking. the 2nd one is a 91 teg, after he got his idle and fuel probem take care of and he also bought a chipped p28 his car ran fine. 2 wks later he drove it from north dakota to mississpi in 2 days. no problems. the 3rd one has tons of problems, it leaks, idles funny and runs slow has hell. and this one is built as built can get. this motor has bad carma or something. my answer to you man is an ls/vtec is as reliable as you build it, or as reliable as you can afford a trustworthy person to build it for you. remember i spent 35 hundred on the bottom end. i could've just bought a gsr motor for that.

 

I am building one now, I am getting everything balanced...EVERYTHING. I am using Shot-peined LS Rods with ARP rod bolts, and B16 pistons. ARP head studs, and NEW GSR water and oil pumps. The girdle I'm sure makes a difference but I have heard it's overkill if you aren't taking it to like 10k daily. I think the main thing is time. People get rushed and excited and it causes them to get sloppy.

 

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