Ok I got the setup for the mini-me on, and all pinned, everything, done. I turn the key and I can hear the pistons going "thump, thump" I also hear the whining start hondas have, but it wont actually run. Why? I am using the y7 distributor, but I was told it would work fine, it fits fine. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IM SO CLOSE.

Thanks
Dan

 

Did you get all of your grounds put on correctly? Not sure on the dizzy, I would like to know myself.

 

when we did my friends mini me no his 97 lx it wouldn't start with the y7 ecu or fuel injectors. turn your distributor all the way tord the fire wall (full advance). and the y7 distributor will work fine.

 

Why do you have to turn it to full advance? I think you have the timing belt off a tooth or something.

 

Can you hear the fuel pump prime? Is there spark? Did you repin the iacv on the ecu?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IDriveHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you have to turn it to full advance? I think you have the timing belt off a tooth or something.</TD></TR></TABLE>

its the noly way it has power. its like that on my friend mini me y7/y8. and on my car d15b7 with his old y7 head on it. the timing marks all line up on both are cars.

 

ok, im goin g to try to get it running today. I got some fire repair. I did the swap exactly as I was supposed to, except for depressurizing the fuel ystem before the swap. It seems like everything is wroking justr the fuel didnt go down the rail into the injectors, I think it just all got stuck in that tube. Anyway, about the ditributor, do you mean rotate the entire cap, or just the little thing that goes into the head?

Thanks
Dan

 

the hole thing loosen the three bolts and turn it, try different places to get it to start

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, im goin g to try to get it running today. I got some fire repair. I did the swap exactly as I was supposed to, except for depressurizing the fuel ystem before the swap. It seems like everything is wroking justr the fuel didnt go down the rail into the injectors, I think it just all got stuck in that tube. Anyway, about the ditributor, do you mean rotate the entire cap, or just the little thing that goes into the head?

Thanks
Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>


I believe he means rotate the whole thing...loosen the three bolts and rotate it toward the firewall...btw, how far are you from arundel mills mall? if close I could lend a hand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, im goin g to try to get it running today. I got some fire repair. I did the swap exactly as I was supposed to, except for depressurizing the fuel ystem before the swap. It seems like everything is wroking justr the fuel didnt go down the rail into the injectors, I think it just all got stuck in that tube. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This makes me believe that you did not ground your fuel pump. The ground for your fuel pump is suposed to be connected to the thermostat housing or near there. Is it grounded? If not the fuel pump gets no power. YOu can also turn the key on and for the first couple seconds you should hear the fuel pump. IF you do not hear this, you have agrounding problem. Many people forget this their first time, even me. The fuel is not stuck somewhere, it is liquid and corrosive. It would be amazing/an act of god to get it stuck.

 

Ok, just finished the repairs, hoses, wires, fixed and ready to go. Turned the key and the fuel pump works becuase I didnt tighten the fuel rail bolt enough so the stuff started to shoot out. TIghtened it down good, so thats fine. I tried to turn the ditributor, but when you turn it the bolts dont line up, it only fit one way. Ok, so any other suggestions, I am afraid to turn the key again, becuase thatr fire was just insane. Oh I'm about 40min. from arundel mills, if I still can't get it I would pay you to come help(92hbmatt)

Thanks
Dan

 

the holes are sloted on the distributor just loosen the bolts don't take them out then turn it.

 

ok I loosedned the bolts + turned as far as possible and it still didnt start. My head is milled .13, should I advance the timing? Could the timing being off cause this not starting? Instead of removing and replacing the timing belt I just made the first piston TDC and slipped the tb off the old cam, then slipped it right on the new one. If one tooth can throw the timing, then thats what it might be. Is there any way to check without a timing light?

Thanks
Dan

 

oh yeah, and im getting a check engine light, I dont have an obd2 scanner so I can't provide any codes, but I thought id mention that.

Thanks
Dan

 

All you have to do is jump the scs connector, and the engine light will flash the code. Look all under the dash over by the ECU. It is a 2 pin plug that looks like it doesnt go to anything, it also may be plugged into a little green rubber box. Pull it out, jump it with a paperclip, turn the ignition to on, and it will flash the code. It will flash a series of long and short flashes. For example code 23 would be 2 long flashes, and 3 short flashes. It will pause, and flash the other code if there is another code. If there is only 1 code it will flash the same code over and over, so be redy with a pen, and paper to write the codes down as they flash...

 

Ok, I'll try that, but would the timing being off cause the same problem I am having. When the distributor (with cap off) is pointing to the number one cylinder, the cam lines up with the head, but the timing marks on the drive pulley are not alinged with the tb cover, does that mean the timing is off? Also, how the hell doI crack the crank shaft bolt? I was using a bar for leverage and a belt wrench to hold the pulley, but the belt ripped becuase it was so freaking tight and it was still spinning. Please help!

Thanks
Dan

 

If you are using the same belt that was on the CX then you do not need to pull that all apart. You will see 3 marks with red in the middle, and a white mark just past that. The WHITE mark is TDC for number 1 cylinder. Take pictures of the timing marks once you get it lined up so i can see where the hell it is...

 

WAY OFF! But when I put the cam on I didnt align the marks at all, I just stuck it on. How can I correct this? Check your im for more info.

Thanks
Dan

 

I hate to give bad news, but that is enough to bend valves.

 

damn , well im going to get the timing on first before i take that freakin head off. Ok, tried to turn the camgear with an extra timing belt I had, it was impossible, any other ideas on how to turn it?

Thanks
Dan

 

Loosen the timing belt tensioner up, slip the belt off of the cam gear, put a wrench on the bolt that holds the cam gear on and turn it. I believe it is a 14mm. Line it up so that the left and right side pointers align with the head horizontally and the top mark with the degrees is pointing up. Rotate your crank until the TDC mark aligns with the pointer on the timing belt cover. Once everything is lined up, slip the belt back on, be careful not to move the crank when putting the belt back on. Tighten the tensioner back up, turn the motor 3 full rotations with the bolt on the crank pulley by watching the TDC mark on the crank pulley go past the pointer until it is lined back up on the third rotation, and then double check that everything is still lined up and that the belt is tight enough, if it is then it should be correct. HINT= It is easier to turn the motor over by hand if you take the spark plugs out.

 

Ok, just tried to turn it with that bolt, no good. I just tightened it soooo tight and the camshaft still didnt budge, if I tighten it anymore ill break the bolt. Would it be easier to take the head off, turn the cam, and then replace? Maybe the vales are hitting a piston since the timing is so off, thats why it aint turnin. But if I do this, do I have to replace the head gasket? I just put a new one on, can I just keep that?

THanks
Dan

 

if you were bending valves trust me you would have known it. you need to loosen the tensioner bolt which is below the motor mount kinda. its a 14mm i think maybe a 12, but there is a hole in the timing belt cover for it. once you do that, the belt will slip off easily. then, you line up the cam gear to where is supposed to, then in the driverside wheel well, there is a 17mm on the crankshaft pulley. AKA the harmonic balancer (hole in inner fenderwell liner). turn the motor to TDC with that bolt, not the cam gear. you will never get the motor to rotate via the cam gear. btw take your plugs out or you'll be cursing for a lil once your ratchet slips off and you hurt a knucle or 5. another way to make sure that your motor is at TDC is take a long 1/4" extension, (10" or so) and stick it in the spark plug hole for cyl number 1 (belt side) turn crank bolt to see when the extension is at its highest point. then put everyting back togeter except plugs in, turn by pulley on bottom, see if anyhting makes silly noises, and everything still lines up.. put plugs in and try.

 

Ok, the tb is offf, the crank is at TDC, but I cant turn the cam ger so that the timing marks line up, it is freaking impossible to turn, how do I turn it?

Thanks
Dan

 

Ok, had to move the crank a little to get the cam to move, but I got the timing marks on the cam alined with the arrows that are on the tb cover. Got the crank a TDC, cam lined up, should I slip the belt back on and give it a shot? Any last things I should check?

Thaks
Dan