alright i want to hard wire my fan so i can switch it on/off from inside the car, how would i go about doing this?

 

matt, its pretty easy...

1st thing is to make sure you get a switch that is rated for the power draw. i am not sure how many amps the circuit is, but i would guess a 5-10A switch should be fine.

all you need to do is cut the fan's power wire, run the fan side of the power wire to one pin on the switch. run a wire from the other pin of the switch to the battery. when i had my fan on a switch, i had an inline fuse as well. i just wanted that added security...

i think that is all you need to do. when i did mine, i used an AC fan, so i cut both wires (the power and the ground wires). i grounded the fan to the chassis and ran a power wire like i mentioned above. i think in your case, the fan will be grounded through the wiring harness.

 

i think you should run the switch by way of the connectors at your CTS. cut the ends off of the wires and run them into your dash however you like.

this way you are only dealing with grounding the fan's relay (and relay's are preferred for me) and not the 12v power side of the fan which can melt cheap switches because of its amp draw.
plus it already has a fuse in your under-dash box. also your fan will not continuously run if you forget to kill the switch as the power only goes to the fan relay when your ignition is turned to past OFF.

i would recommend getting a new relay for your fan if doing this though. 12+ year old relays are not trustworthy.

hth, J

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeper4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think you should run the switch by way of the connectors at your CTS. cut the ends off of the wires and run them into your dash however you like.

this way you are only dealing with grounding the fan's relay (and relay's are preferred for me) and not the 12v power side of the fan which can melt cheap switches because of its amp draw.
plus it already has a fuse in your under-dash box. also your fan will not continuously run if you forget to kill the switch as the power only goes to the fan relay when your ignition is turned to past OFF.

i would recommend getting a new relay for your fan if doing this though. 12+ year old relays are not trustworthy.

hth, J</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok, this is a way better idea than mine. for sleeper4dr!

 

alright thanks for the info guys, i will keep looking into it, how would i use the relay? do you have any pics on how you did yours, or a write up?

 

the stock system uses a relay, but it goes bad over time. i found that i had 2 broken relays and the fix was to replace the resistor inside the relay that had corroded and then broke its connection.

 

CTS


It is a switch. When it reaches a certain temp it closes and triggers the radiator fan relay to actuate and the fan turns on. IT only has 2 wires going to it - one goes to ground and the other goes to the relay. All you need to do is locate the wire that runs to the fan relay from the CTS. Mount your interior switch and have one lead connected to a good chassis ground. Run the other wire to the CTS wire that runs to the relay. DONE! If you CUT the CTS wire, then you loose the stock function of the CTS. Just tap into the wire and you can have both... stock function and "turn on whenever I feel like it".

 

just replace the relay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CTS


It is a switch. When it reaches a certain temp it closes and triggers the radiator fan relay to actuate and the fan turns on. IT only has 2 wires going to it - one goes to ground and the other goes to the relay. All you need to do is locate the wire that runs to the fan relay from the CTS. Mount your interior switch and have one lead connected to a good chassis ground. Run the other wire to the CTS wire that runs to the relay. DONE! If you CUT the CTS wire, then you loose the stock function of the CTS. Just tap into the wire and you can have both... stock function and "turn on whenever I feel like it".</TD></TR></TABLE>

is there any good truth to this? will it work properly? this would be very cool if it is right.

my fan works fine right now, but undernieth my hood is getting to hot and i want to keep it cooler under there (testing a theory for smog also). please let me know right away as i am going to smog saturday

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt j &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

is there any good truth to this? will it work properly? this would be very cool if it is right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is the absolute truth, and the best way to wire a manual over-ride to the cooling fan.

 

cool i will work on it tonight, i have the wiring schematic at home so i will just find the cts and then find the relay and tap into it. thanks guys!!

 

If you are running a D-series, the CTS is a crappy big rubber boot plug found on the firewall side of the engine. It's not fun to get to.

 

i just used a jumper wire and some electrical tape its held for over a year

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are running a D-series, the CTS is a crappy big rubber boot plug found on the firewall side of the engine. It's not fun to get to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

can you take a pic?

 

No engine = no pic of CTS.

 

so the cts is on the firewall or on the motor itself?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt j &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the cts is on the firewall or on the motor itself?</TD></TR></TABLE>

its on the block, above the oil filter (it might even be to the left of it). you'll see the rubber boot with 2 wires sticking out of it. just crawl under the car like doing an oil change and you should see it.

 

IMHO
Skip the whole Honda circuit.
This is the circuitry to make the fan work. I used:
-30A relay purchased at auto parts store/radio shack/wal-mart
-power window switch from EX civic (this will take some work to decipher the color code. you can just use an on/off toggle)
-aftermarket fan, but the blue/black color convention still applies to stock Honda fan
-crimp style female disconnect and ring terminals

pull battery power straight from the battery w/ 14 AWG wire to terminal 87
run battery power from terminal 30 to fan w/ 14 AWG wire
pull +12 to switch from fuse box using 18 AWG wire
wire from switch to terminal 85 is 18 AWG
ground fan using 14 AWG wire
ground terminal 86 w/ 18 AWG wire
any more questions- IM me

 

i still love the way your front-end looks

 

ok the main reason i am going to do this is for smog i want to try and drop underhood tempatures and keep everything cool inside. at some certain points im sure my dumbass would forget to flip the switch and the car would over heat, thats why i like the idea of just tapping into the cts cuz it will still turn on at a certain point if it gets to warm but i still have the option to flip it on manually

 

thanks keith<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keithv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

its on the block, above the oil filter (it might even be to the left of it). you'll see the rubber boot with 2 wires sticking out of it. just crawl under the car like doing an oil change and you should see it.</TD></TR></TABLE>