I own a 97 CW ITR....I have spent alot of money on my car and it has made no results. I have all my work done by Tempest Racing of waldorf MD. The following modifications are;

DC Sports 4-2-1 Ceramic header...I know a mistake and looking to upgrade.
Greddy Evo Cat back exhaust
Aem CAI with bypass valve.
AEM Fuel Regulator
RC 310cc injectors
Vortech Fuel Rail
Holley Fuel Pump
Block Bored .20
PnP B16A
Crower Rods
JE pistons
11.5 comp
Skunk2 stage 1 cams
REV retainers and valve springs
AEM Cam gears
Hondata stage 2
full disc spring clutch
Stock cat


With all that and much tuning and dyno time I am making only 175whp. To me that seems a little ridiculous. Tempest says my header and stock cat are restricting air flow and causing me to lose up to 30whp. I think with all the modifications I have done I should be making more than 5 hp more than stock. I really want some help, I have done research and with the cams alone I should be making over 180whp. There are not many reputable shops in the southern MD. If anyone is local and knows how to tune hondata I would love your help and suggestions. Also my car is running very rich. It smokes its *** off when I get into it. It also burns oil faster than normal. I have replaced all the plugs and wires recently and no change. Well I hope some fellow ITR owners can help me cause I'm in much need of it. thanks again Steven.

 

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Did you swap out your head?

 

well you definately do have alot of work done to the car, and probably should have more power than 175whp. for your exhaust, there is really no point in doing parts of it unless you are going to do the entire thing. get a high performance cat or test pipe, and make sure there are no bottle-necks. also, have you had the car tuned at all?

 

What about maintenance stuff? Distributor cap & rotor, fuel filter, compression test... stuff like that?

 

You should definitely be a lot closer to the 200whp mark. My first recommendation like Skafia said is make sure your compression figures are good and routine maintenance is done. I would also highly recommend getting rid of your header and exhaust for something more high-performance. USDM DC header mated with a Greddy exhaust = good sound and bling, but no power... especially for your compression and cam setup. It seems you don't have too much of a problem spending money, so I think you would definitely benefit from the SMSP Header + Exhaust combo.

Good luck.

 

my motor was previous built by a domestic hot rod motor builder. They ported my head so much that it lost all flow characteristics. The only thing i had enough money to buy was a b16a head and PnP it. The shop i us did compression test i have stock dist. cap & rotor. I plan on getting either toda or T1R header and test pipe. Tempest has done over 10 dyno runs; tuning with the VAFC for most of the runs but most recently I had a hondata system installed. I had my car in the shop about three weeks ago when they did the last dyno run tuning the hondata and producing the astonishing 175whp.

 

get a bigger header and let me know how it turns out.

i have a 84.5mm bore built LS/vtec and i am running JDM4-1 header, i hear its too small.

 

yes the company that tunes my car suggested the toda. I will probably get that or something very similar as soon as funds accumulate.

 

Money spent does not always equal horsepower gained. The piston and rod combo looks like a waste of money for your application. Nevertheless, you should be making more power than you are.

I would buy a new exhaust system. I think once you invest in a good exhaust system, you will see much better numbers. Unfortunetely, good headers arent cheap but if you sell your current equipment you should have a little bit to work with.

Good luck.


Mike

 

they left the gears at 0 on both in. & ex. they said that they tuned the hondata but i I don't know

 

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That's your problem right there.
porting and polishig MUST be done by someone reputable with YEARS of experience with a Honda B series head .
And the most important thing.
You MUST get a before and after flow chart of your head, otherwise you are throwing money away and loosing performance.
You are not the only one to go through this. My friend just did a beautiful job of porting and polishing his B18C5 head. He raised compression, Skunk 2 cams and guess what, 180 HP at the wheels. After three hours on the dyno, 180 was the most he was able to get out of it.
The sad thing, he was making 183 HP with a Mugen head gasket and stock cams with stock head.

Pretty looking port and polish jobs mean squat without the numbers to back it up.

 

Headwork i recommend. Portflow heads, or R&D dyno C&C heads in Gardena. Both the heads perform great. The CnC head will cost a bit more as its more labor intensive.

Stage 1 skunk cams are a waste of money IMO. Slightly better than ITR cams. Either jump up to stage 2 or 3, or switch to Jun III's. Hondata tuning is done with a laptop. If your car was put on a dyno with you there, you would have seen them tuning it. Also with swapping cams, i guarentee that you need to tune the gears. Also the AEM intake can't have the bypass installed for peak power out of it.

I'm to tired to give anymore advice right now.

 

Thanks everyone I really appreciate the help and advice. It looks like I should focus on getting a new head (just another B18C5 head) and purchasing a whole new exhaust system.

 

it's the header...that dc header has flow similar to stock

 

Your exhuast is fine. I would change your header/head before your exhuast. Also I dont understand why you installed new rods or valve train unless if your planning on rev'ing higher? Sounds like you got suckered by that shop to buy a bunch of stuff you didn't need. Better yet since you already have a upgraded valve train, why dont you buy some cams?

 

Who PnP'd the head anyways?

If everything else if fine with the car, I'd try another tuner first.

FWIW, if you are going to get another head, just get another B16A head. Same exact casting as the ITR head without the minor valve work which you can get done when you get that one PnP'd by Portflow, Topspeed, etc.

 

NEVER GO BACK TO TEMPEST RACING....they obviously dont know wtf they are doing

my 100% STOCK itr made 172, with slight problems

why did you upgrade your fuel pump?
and why bigger injectors on skunk stage 1?

i would find a reputable dyno and have them tune it for you....you should be making a lot more power with all those mods

 

This is why I have stopped spending money on "power" mods.

 

You need to find a different shop. With your current mods you should be making more than you are.

 

Okay I guess I need to let you guys no exactly what I have done. Yes I have learned from my mistakes. Now I am simply trying to get some decent power out of my car and fix what is wrong with it.
A while back I took my motor out to get it totally rebuilt by a local hot rod company called samakow racing. The total rebuilt cost $5000 I was upping displacement to a 2.0L. I was doing all new valvetrain with 403 crower cams. The company rebuilt my block with crower rods and SRP pistons. I got my car back and in no time at all it was blown up when a valve (that was too big for the motor) broke and destroyed the top of one of my pistons. I took the motor to tempest racing for a rebuild. They told me how the pistons where high compression GSR pistons because SRP doesnt even make Type R pistons. They told me everthing that was wrong with my motor and that they would fix it. They rebuilt my motor and replaced the head cause they told me it was useless due to the PnP job performed on it. After spending $4000+ just for that rebuild I got my car back and they said that there is still some stuff I needed to upgrade. After more work it has gotten to what I have listed at the top of the post. I have spent well over $10,000 on my motor and I am making close to stock numbers. I have had my car for 2 maybe 2.5 years and it's been on the road for a little over 6 months. I really just want my car to make a little over 200whp. Then I dont think I will ever touch the motor again. So that is why there is a mix of hi power parts and more streetable parts.

 

sorry to hear that.

another arguement for if you want it done right you must do it yourself.

see who the locals in your area go to for import machine work, send it out of state if you have to. assemble it yourself and buy yourself a lambda meter for tuning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by middleman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well you definately do have alot of work done to the car, and probably should have more power than 175whp. for your exhaust, there is really no point in doing parts of it unless you are going to do the entire thing. get a high performance cat or test pipe, and make sure there are no bottle-necks. also, have you had the car tuned at all?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you will be surprise what a stock exhaust can rob you on power , we took mine off on the dyno and the gains were up to 25-30hp just from the bottleneck of a stock gsr being remove

you should also try a test pipe or a better flowing cat

 

Bring your car to SGT and have him tune it...he is the master at Hondata.

 

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you will be surprise what a stock exhaust can rob you on power , we took mine off on the dyno and the gains were up to 25-30hp just from the bottleneck of a stock gsr being remove
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Did I step into the GSR forum? I have seen plots over 190 on stock ITR exhausts and any aftermarket exhaust is as good as an ITR Exhaust . . . GSR may be subpar but he isn't running a GSR. ANd you won't see a 25-30 hp gain on even your car once you put ANY exhaut back on.

 

if you need to get rid of those 310cc injectors, i am willing to trade you. i have a set of 270cc.