rear brake disk conversion
well, the rear brake only supply 35-30% of the braking power...if you dont plant to autocross(which drum brake gets hot after couple hard braking) your car..dont brother.
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Do it... it is very simple and looks a lot better if nothing else. I did this to mine and have had no problems whatsoever in the three years since... The brakes fade a little less, those drums were horrible.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ixiblindixi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you serious?? have you ever removed a trailing arm?its 5 bolts
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What part of this didn't you get? :almost not worth the trouble if you can't get the parts for free
How does that relate to the actual job of doing it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>What part of this didn't you get? :almost not worth the trouble if you can't get the parts for free
How does that relate to the actual job of doing it?
I just completed my "fully built"...lol, rear disk conversion. I used Powerslot rotors, SS brake lines and some Axxis Ultimate pads. I got the WHOLE rear end off of a 93 accord in a junk yard and i compared EVERYTHING off of my 96accord rear disks, and all you need is
The rear disk knuckle and the rear disk assembly w/rotors, etc.
The long *** screw on the bottom from the disks, b/c its like 1 inch shorter than the one from your drums.
Other than that, the trailing arms are EXACT.
I road race my accord and i noticed a HUGE difference in braking w/o ABS. IMO its worth it for performance braking.
The rear disk knuckle and the rear disk assembly w/rotors, etc.
The long *** screw on the bottom from the disks, b/c its like 1 inch shorter than the one from your drums.
Other than that, the trailing arms are EXACT.
I road race my accord and i noticed a HUGE difference in braking w/o ABS. IMO its worth it for performance braking.
I did mine... It was a very easy job. No problems in 4 years. Looks cleaner and the disk brakes are easier to maintain than the drums. Not sure why someone would post it isn't worth it... I guess they haven't any clue.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotaryBzzzz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ack.
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Just messin' with you man...
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Just messin' with you man...
The blue arrows point to the lower control arms, which are identical between 1990/1993 drum/disc. The red arrow is the upper control arm which is also identical, so I swapped this one over to the disc setup. Turns out I only needed the green circled hub
I believe 90-97 is all the same.
Has anyone changed their proportioner valve? I think the 90 accord has 35/30 pressure, for stock front disc and rear drum. But I know of someone who changes it out to the 90-93 GSR proportioner valve that has 40/40 pressure for all disc brakes.
Has anyone changed their proportioner valve? I think the 90 accord has 35/30 pressure, for stock front disc and rear drum. But I know of someone who changes it out to the 90-93 GSR proportioner valve that has 40/40 pressure for all disc brakes.
surprise! you'll need two Prop valves, not one. hondas come from the factory with a safety feature built in- that front left and rear right are connected, and front right and rear left are connected, so if there is a brake line failure you dont only have rear brakes (bad) or just front brakes (also bad). you will need to put a prop valve on both lines or convert your brakes to a single-valve front-rear design (expensive).



