will the car run in limp mode because of this and will it not make vtec work cause i dont have vtec..the car only revs up to 7k would this be why the car is running in limp because of the codes??

 

code 6 is coolent temperature sensor it might not be plugged in or the sensor maybe bad. and code 9 is number one cylinder position im not sure whats up with that one but the sensor could be damaged, also about your 7k rev limit thats probably because of your code 9, i threw code 17 which is vss or vehicle speed sensor and it would redline at 6900 i was pissed but i bought a new speedo cord and she wraps all the way to 8200 now. i hope some of that helps

 

i also had a code 9. To fix it i adjusted my idel to 1200 rpm and it went away.

 

Make sure the coolant temperature plug is on the right sensor, there is another sensor right by it that it can plug right into. Here is a little more info.

Code 6 - Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)
Helps determine the Pulse Width of the injectors at start-up. When this sensor starts acting-up, the engine will get hard to start, on "warm/hot starts". The wax pellet inside the sensor has gotton lazy. Sending bogus signals to the ECU, causing it to flood the engine.

When cold, it should read 2.5-4.5 volts. Also, check the IAT sensor for the same voltage, they should read close to the same. When full warmed should read .5-.6 volts. You can use a resistor with a 330 ohm 1/2 watt spec, or one from Radio Shack part# 271-1113. Start the engine and let it warm up, then kill the engine. Put the resistor in the wire connector on the harness. Start the engine, if problem goes away then replace the sensor. Use this only for temporay testing, it will cause other performance issues. Meaning the ECU will think the engine is always warmed up, when it's not.

This sensor is also known to cause hot and cold starting problems.

Temp F Volts
0 4.70
10 4.50
20 4.29
30 4.10
40 3.86
50 3.61
60 3.35
70 3.08
80 2.81
90 2.50
100 2.26

When the engine is hot, the sensor is telling the ECU that the engine is cold. Flooding occurs, due too a improper injector pulse width. Unplug the sensor if you need to start the car in a hurry. The ECU will throw a code and go into limp mode, however you will be able to drive it.

Code 9 - No. 1 Cylinder Position Sensor

It's the third sensor in the dist., and it detects the position of the No. 1 Cylinder, as the base for the Sequential Injection. It can also be located on the camshaft of DOHC engines.

CYP sensor is mounted on the exhaust cam on the ZC.

If the dist. base bearing starts failing, it will heat the sensor(s) up, destroying the magnetism thus causing a code(s). It will lose 10% of it's strenght, each time it is heated up to 170 degrees plus.

In most cases, replacing the distributor is the only alternative. Especially if the bearing has failed.
Honda does don't stock the bearing by itself, but other after-market compaines are said to have one.

If you have problems starting the engine, or drivability after the install check your cam aligment. The seizing bearing might have caused it to jump a tooth/notch or two. From the extra drag due to the bearing failing.