AEM brig break upgrade.
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From: del mar, CA, usa
AEM big brake upgrade.
aanyone know where i can find this kit for a 92 prelude. needs to be within a resonable price.... i need to purchase two upgrade kits correct? one for the front and one for the rear???
Modified by Elkins911 at 8:39 PM 6/13/2003
Modified by Elkins911 at 8:39 PM 6/13/2003
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From: FL, USA
Re: AEM brig break upgrade. (Elkins911)
I didn't think AEM made a brake kit for the rear...
How about just going with the Legend calipers..Doesn't cost anywhere near as much as AEM big brake.
How about just going with the Legend calipers..Doesn't cost anywhere near as much as AEM big brake.
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From: FL, USA
Re: (Elkins911)
my bad, I always thought the 4th gen got shafted when it came to that
Actually, I just went on AEM's website and it's not listed. Only the 5th gen is listed. Is it that the rear brakes are the same for the 4th and 5th gen?
Modified by symba at 4:09 PM 6/13/2003
Actually, I just went on AEM's website and it's not listed. Only the 5th gen is listed. Is it that the rear brakes are the same for the 4th and 5th gen?
Modified by symba at 4:09 PM 6/13/2003
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From: Brooklyn, NY, USA
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From: Los Burritos, KOALA, Ugondia
Re: AEM big brake upgrade. (Elkins911)
For the cost of the big brake upgrade (which actually sucks anyway) you should get the Legend twin piston calipers. Actually, they will be much cheaper!
do you have an Si or vtec lude? do a search for legend in prelude (archived and new) to get the info.
do you have an Si or vtec lude? do a search for legend in prelude (archived and new) to get the info.
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From: Los Burritos, KOALA, Ugondia
Re: (Elkins911)
You can get the calipers at Kragen ( http://www.partsamerica.com ) for $50 each (return your calipers to any local kragen to get the core charge back).
The rotors, well, just get brembo blanks for $40-50 each. You will have spent $200 for the set.
I am not sure if you will need to get the caliper bracket or if you can use yours. Was your car a VTEC model or Si ?
The rotors, well, just get brembo blanks for $40-50 each. You will have spent $200 for the set.
I am not sure if you will need to get the caliper bracket or if you can use yours. Was your car a VTEC model or Si ?
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Re: (Elkins911)
legend calipers(after core charge)= 85x2 = 170
brembo blank rotors- 35 x2 =70
aem pads 55
stainless steel brake lines=80
fluid+brakleen+misc=15
total=390
this is to do it right of course, if your rotors are ok, then leave them. same with pads and even the brake lines. but if you really want to get the most out of this, you will need ALL of the things i listed
That list was quoted from someone else on PO.com
brembo blank rotors- 35 x2 =70
aem pads 55
stainless steel brake lines=80
fluid+brakleen+misc=15
total=390
this is to do it right of course, if your rotors are ok, then leave them. same with pads and even the brake lines. but if you really want to get the most out of this, you will need ALL of the things i listed
That list was quoted from someone else on PO.com
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Re: (symba)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by symba »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">legend calipers(after core charge)= 85x2 = 170
brembo blank rotors- 35 x2 =70
aem pads 55
stainless steel brake lines=80
fluid+brakleen+misc=15
total=390
this is to do it right of course, if your rotors are ok, then leave them. same with pads and even the brake lines. but if you really want to get the most out of this, you will need ALL of the things i listed
That list was quoted from someone else on PO.com </TD></TR></TABLE>
Keep in mind the AEM pads are just renamed Nissins.
I would reccomed contacting Andie Lin w/Cobalt Frinction....he will give you the best pad/prices.
brembo blank rotors- 35 x2 =70
aem pads 55
stainless steel brake lines=80
fluid+brakleen+misc=15
total=390
this is to do it right of course, if your rotors are ok, then leave them. same with pads and even the brake lines. but if you really want to get the most out of this, you will need ALL of the things i listed
That list was quoted from someone else on PO.com </TD></TR></TABLE>
Keep in mind the AEM pads are just renamed Nissins.
I would reccomed contacting Andie Lin w/Cobalt Frinction....he will give you the best pad/prices.
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From: Los Burritos, KOALA, Ugondia
Re: (Elkins911)
AEM is mostly just for looks. None of our cars need cross drilled slotted stuff. The larger rotor does cause your car to slow down in a shorter distance, but that also causes your front brakes to be used more than the rear (changes the brake bias balance).
You'll also find that your stock rotor size is actually quite good and provides very good braking when you put appropriate pads and tires on. Also, check into changing the brakelines out with stainless steel braided ones.
The Legend calipers are good because they have 2 pistons instead of one. This promotes more even wear on the pad, also means you are using the brake more efficiently.
Take a look at this article for some brake upgrade information:
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_b...lasso
You'll also find that your stock rotor size is actually quite good and provides very good braking when you put appropriate pads and tires on. Also, check into changing the brakelines out with stainless steel braided ones.
The Legend calipers are good because they have 2 pistons instead of one. This promotes more even wear on the pad, also means you are using the brake more efficiently.
Take a look at this article for some brake upgrade information:
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_b...lasso
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Re: (kotetu)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kotetu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The larger rotor does cause your car to slow down in a shorter distance, </TD></TR></TABLE>
Larger rotors do not shorten braking distance. They only lower temps as there is now more metal to absorb/dissipate heat. If you want to shorten braking distance, get better tires (and pads), like kotetu said.
I suggest replacing the rotors with Brembo blanks.
Larger rotors do not shorten braking distance. They only lower temps as there is now more metal to absorb/dissipate heat. If you want to shorten braking distance, get better tires (and pads), like kotetu said.
I suggest replacing the rotors with Brembo blanks.
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From: Alexandria, VA, USA
actually, kotetu is right. try spinning a bicycle wheel really fast, then try to stop it by grabbing it near the center. then try to stop it by grabbing it along the outside. the larger the rotor, the easier it is for the caliper to stop the car. if this wasn't the case, people wouldn't buy 15" brembo kits, they would only buy 12" brembo kits.........
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Re: (JUNGLISTluder)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUNGLISTluder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually, kotetu is right. try spinning a bicycle wheel really fast, then try to stop it by grabbing it near the center. then try to stop it by grabbing it along the outside. the larger the rotor, the easier it is for the caliper to stop the car. if this wasn't the case, people wouldn't buy 15" brembo kits, they would only buy 12" brembo kits.........</TD></TR></TABLE>
From StopTech's website:
"Well, let's look at why we upgraded the front brakes in the first place. Contrary to popular belief, the real reason sports- and racing cars use big brakes is to deal with heat. Period. There has been a bunch of stuff published which will disclaim this, but when you look at the braking system from a design standpoint, making them 'bigger' doesn't fundamentally do anything for stopping distance. It's all about the heat."
http://www.stoptech.com/whitep...1.htm
If your pad is say 6" away from the center of the rotor and you can lock up your wheel, then moving the pad 9" away the only difference is you won't have to push the brake pedal as far down. It doesn't change the amount of braking force exerted on the wheel. Since the rotor isn't part of the wheel the force exerted on the rotor passes through the center of the rotor down to the mounting hub of the wheel and from there to the outside of the wheel. As far as the wheel is concerned, you're still grabbing the center. The same amount of braking force (6 or 9 inches away) is transmitted to the wheel. Since the tire is the thing that stops the car, it's all about what the wheel/tire gets.
Changing the size of the rotor without anything else would only be beneficial if your tires were so bad you couldn't lock them, or your stock system is so bad you can't lock the tires. It gives you the illusion of better brakes because you don't have to push the pedal as hard.
From StopTech's website:
"Well, let's look at why we upgraded the front brakes in the first place. Contrary to popular belief, the real reason sports- and racing cars use big brakes is to deal with heat. Period. There has been a bunch of stuff published which will disclaim this, but when you look at the braking system from a design standpoint, making them 'bigger' doesn't fundamentally do anything for stopping distance. It's all about the heat."
http://www.stoptech.com/whitep...1.htm
If your pad is say 6" away from the center of the rotor and you can lock up your wheel, then moving the pad 9" away the only difference is you won't have to push the brake pedal as far down. It doesn't change the amount of braking force exerted on the wheel. Since the rotor isn't part of the wheel the force exerted on the rotor passes through the center of the rotor down to the mounting hub of the wheel and from there to the outside of the wheel. As far as the wheel is concerned, you're still grabbing the center. The same amount of braking force (6 or 9 inches away) is transmitted to the wheel. Since the tire is the thing that stops the car, it's all about what the wheel/tire gets.
Changing the size of the rotor without anything else would only be beneficial if your tires were so bad you couldn't lock them, or your stock system is so bad you can't lock the tires. It gives you the illusion of better brakes because you don't have to push the pedal as hard.
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Re: (Steppin Razor)
I don't think the stopping distance will vary much anyway. The reason I said it would reduce the stopping distance is simply from my understanding of physics. Here are two separate phenomena that make me think this:
Torque. Torque is equal to force times distance. Farther out from the center you apply more torque with the same force. So by that rational, you can apply more braking torque to the wheel.
Inertia. Have you ever held out your feet and spun around in a wheely chair? Try moving your feet in, then out again. You notice the chair slows when your feet are at the out position. The reason I feel this phenomena is relevant is that with more weight further from the axis of rotation, the wheel will want to slow itself down.
Anyway.
The larger rotors ARE primarily for heat resistance. The main point I was trying to make was that on our street driven cars, there is no reason in the world for him to get slotted cross drilled rotors. They don't provide any benefit for a street car.
Again, the better option, and cheaper, is to get VTEC rotors(brembo blanks) and legend twin piston calipers, good pads, and new tires. It's really the tires, after all, that stop the car.
Torque. Torque is equal to force times distance. Farther out from the center you apply more torque with the same force. So by that rational, you can apply more braking torque to the wheel.
Inertia. Have you ever held out your feet and spun around in a wheely chair? Try moving your feet in, then out again. You notice the chair slows when your feet are at the out position. The reason I feel this phenomena is relevant is that with more weight further from the axis of rotation, the wheel will want to slow itself down.
Anyway.
The larger rotors ARE primarily for heat resistance. The main point I was trying to make was that on our street driven cars, there is no reason in the world for him to get slotted cross drilled rotors. They don't provide any benefit for a street car.
Again, the better option, and cheaper, is to get VTEC rotors(brembo blanks) and legend twin piston calipers, good pads, and new tires. It's really the tires, after all, that stop the car.
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From: sacramento, ca
Re: AEM big brake upgrade. (kotetu)
i have heard of twin piston calipers, but i saw a pic of the calipers and i don't know what the twim pistons look like. what do they look like and where are they located on the caliper?
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Re: AEM big brake upgrade. (tonylude94)
so, i have a 92' h22 prelude. if i wanted to upgrade to legend calipers, what do i need to do? what rotors do i get? do the vtecs work on my hubs?
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From: Los Burritos, KOALA, Ugondia
Re: AEM big brake upgrade. (Elkins911)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Elkins911 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so, i have a 92' h22 prelude. if i wanted to upgrade to legend calipers, what do i need to do? what rotors do i get? do the vtecs work on my hubs?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll need to get the legend calipers and your 4G vtec rotors, I am not sure if the bracket for your calipers will be right. do a search in the prelude forum for 'legend' it should all be there.
You'll need to get the legend calipers and your 4G vtec rotors, I am not sure if the bracket for your calipers will be right. do a search in the prelude forum for 'legend' it should all be there.