how to stop body roll
what is the single most helpful thing you can do to a 95 civic so that it doesn't lean so much in sharp turns. Should i get a sway bar, stiffer shocks, strut bar? im looking to correct it as much as i can without buying a million things.
So basically, what is the biggest reason my civic leans in the turns?
So basically, what is the biggest reason my civic leans in the turns?
Shocks and stiff springs would be your best bet. If you
want a swaybar I have a 21mm and a 24mm front for sale.
I would do the shocks and springs first off.
want a swaybar I have a 21mm and a 24mm front for sale.
I would do the shocks and springs first off.
all of the above would help, first i would get some good shock/springs. Then go for some swaybars if you still arent happy with your body roll. Tie bars will help but just buying one isnt worth it you wont feel anything. For tiebars to make a difference you need to entire collection.
sounds good. i want to get adjustable coilovers though cuz if i drop it i want to put it back up in the winter for the snow. Whats a good coilover company that wont drain my wallet completely?
also, i saw on ebay a set of 4 sway bars and stuff....2 for front, 2 for rear. any good?
also, i saw on ebay a set of 4 sway bars and stuff....2 for front, 2 for rear. any good?
right now your civic leans so much because ITS STOCK! its made for economy and a smooth ride, not taking high speed turns.
depending on how deep you want to go
you could start as simple as some eibach springs and KYB shocks
get ground control coils and koni yellows
or get a koni full coilover system.
all depends on your final goals of the car.
depending on how deep you want to go
you could start as simple as some eibach springs and KYB shocks
get ground control coils and koni yellows
or get a koni full coilover system.
all depends on your final goals of the car.
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ground controls are probably the best coilover sleeve you can get. They normally go from like 250 used up to in the 350 range new. So those matched up with the kyb shocks you said you can get cheap will give you a nice handling car. Then if you still arent happy with that you can get a front and rear sway bar. I am using st sways right now and i am pretty happy with them.
To really control body roll very stiff springs are required ~500.
To easily control body roll, sway bars are the cheaper route.
Look into the Eibach, Suspension Technics, and Progress.
All bolt on without changing a single thing.
To easily control body roll, sway bars are the cheaper route.
Look into the Eibach, Suspension Technics, and Progress.
All bolt on without changing a single thing.
PLEEEASSSE....
I have a stock ex with NO suspension Stock springs and struts.. with 150k+... I have little to NO body roll..
get an energy suspension bushing master kit... I did JUST the lower control arm bushings in the front and virtually ALL body roll was eliminated...
I'd HIGHLY recomend getting that FIRST.. before you spend 400+ on a full suspension... you'd be amazed how much of a difference it makes and it's only 150 or so...
If you're unsatisfied then get the springs/struts... and as far a gc's they are no where NEAR being the "best coilovers" out there... they are good cheap adjustable SLEEVE type coilovers... for a REAL set of coilovers you're looking at 900+.
I'd recomend eibach prokit springs with some good struts if you want low cost ride performance without the ability to adjust the ride hieght... if you MUST HAVE the ability to adjust the ride hieght and are willing to sacrafice performance go with a sleeve type coilover like the gc's. Idealy though you want nice coilovers but they are FAR from neccisary for most if not all street driven cars.
I have a stock ex with NO suspension Stock springs and struts.. with 150k+... I have little to NO body roll..
get an energy suspension bushing master kit... I did JUST the lower control arm bushings in the front and virtually ALL body roll was eliminated...
I'd HIGHLY recomend getting that FIRST.. before you spend 400+ on a full suspension... you'd be amazed how much of a difference it makes and it's only 150 or so...
If you're unsatisfied then get the springs/struts... and as far a gc's they are no where NEAR being the "best coilovers" out there... they are good cheap adjustable SLEEVE type coilovers... for a REAL set of coilovers you're looking at 900+.
I'd recomend eibach prokit springs with some good struts if you want low cost ride performance without the ability to adjust the ride hieght... if you MUST HAVE the ability to adjust the ride hieght and are willing to sacrafice performance go with a sleeve type coilover like the gc's. Idealy though you want nice coilovers but they are FAR from neccisary for most if not all street driven cars.
i have tein ra's for sale, take your body roll away guaranteed.
do not buy thicker swaybars if you have not upgraded your springs and shocks first. it will rip your subframes b/c too much pressure will be going into the swaybars.
with a low budget i would recommend this... (and dont skimp, just save your money until you can do it, youll thank yourself later when you dont have to replace it after you realize you bought crappy crap.)
kyb agx shocks
gc coilovers
front/rear camber kit(or washers for the rear)
integra or suspension techniques front swaybar
integra type-r 22mm rear swaybar with beaks kit or bsq kit
3 point front upper strut bar
integra front crossmember bar(from junkyard)
rear strut bar
rear lower tie bar
in that order
do not buy thicker swaybars if you have not upgraded your springs and shocks first. it will rip your subframes b/c too much pressure will be going into the swaybars.
with a low budget i would recommend this... (and dont skimp, just save your money until you can do it, youll thank yourself later when you dont have to replace it after you realize you bought crappy crap.)
kyb agx shocks
gc coilovers
front/rear camber kit(or washers for the rear)
integra or suspension techniques front swaybar
integra type-r 22mm rear swaybar with beaks kit or bsq kit
3 point front upper strut bar
integra front crossmember bar(from junkyard)
rear strut bar
rear lower tie bar
in that order
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have a stock ex with NO suspension Stock springs and struts.. with 150k+... I have little to NO body roll..</TD></TR></TABLE>
because of the big stock front bar
With the way these companies are developing the rear bar mounts, it's doubtful the rear subframe will tear. I have the Beak's kit with an ITR bar.
I like the Progress design.
http://www.progressauto.com/
Look in the 2003 Catalog section.
I have a stock ex with NO suspension Stock springs and struts.. with 150k+... I have little to NO body roll..</TD></TR></TABLE>
because of the big stock front bar
With the way these companies are developing the rear bar mounts, it's doubtful the rear subframe will tear. I have the Beak's kit with an ITR bar.
I like the Progress design.
http://www.progressauto.com/
Look in the 2003 Catalog section.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
get an energy suspension bushing master kit... I did JUST the lower control arm bushings in the front and virtually ALL body roll was eliminated... </TD></TR></TABLE>
whats that? where can i get it?
get an energy suspension bushing master kit... I did JUST the lower control arm bushings in the front and virtually ALL body roll was eliminated... </TD></TR></TABLE>
whats that? where can i get it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right now your civic leans so much because ITS STOCK! its made for economy and a smooth ride, not taking high speed turns.
depending on how deep you want to go
you could start as simple as some eibach springs and KYB shocks
get ground control coils and koni yellows
or get a koni full coilover system.
all depends on your final goals of the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what Kamin says
I'd rather spend it on Tein SS instead of GC coilovers but that's me.
depending on how deep you want to go
you could start as simple as some eibach springs and KYB shocks
get ground control coils and koni yellows
or get a koni full coilover system.
all depends on your final goals of the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what Kamin says
I'd rather spend it on Tein SS instead of GC coilovers but that's me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo4racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
whats that? where can i get it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
energy bushing are bushing that go into all the moving parts of your suspension they are polyurethane and are rather stiff. The OEM bushing are rubber and have a lot of give to them so that they provide a soft ride. Any shop can get them for you. But they are a b!tch to install.
whats that? where can i get it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
energy bushing are bushing that go into all the moving parts of your suspension they are polyurethane and are rather stiff. The OEM bushing are rubber and have a lot of give to them so that they provide a soft ride. Any shop can get them for you. But they are a b!tch to install.
my setup has zero body roll,it handles great down in the corners with no drift so far,till i push it too far,lol.
95 dx coupe w/ b16+turbo
kyb agx's set to 2 in front and 3 in rear
cheapo coilovers dropped about 2 inches
ST rear sway bar with poly mounts
front ex sway bar
cheapo front and rear upper stru bars
rear lower cheapo stru bar
i think the sway bars made the biggest diffrence
i love the way it handles,we have a 90 degree corner at the end of our road,took a freind through it and he nearly **** his pants.
95 dx coupe w/ b16+turbo
kyb agx's set to 2 in front and 3 in rear
cheapo coilovers dropped about 2 inches
ST rear sway bar with poly mounts
front ex sway bar
cheapo front and rear upper stru bars
rear lower cheapo stru bar
i think the sway bars made the biggest diffrence
i love the way it handles,we have a 90 degree corner at the end of our road,took a freind through it and he nearly **** his pants.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you're unsatisfied then get the springs/struts... and as far a gc's they are no where NEAR being the "best coilovers" out there... they are good cheap adjustable SLEEVE type coilovers... for a REAL set of coilovers you're looking at 900+.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What the hell is a "real set of coilovers?"
If you mean a "set of shocks with threaded bodies and adjustable spring perches," I'm still confused. It makes no difference how the threaded body is attached to the shock.
If you're unsatisfied then get the springs/struts... and as far a gc's they are no where NEAR being the "best coilovers" out there... they are good cheap adjustable SLEEVE type coilovers... for a REAL set of coilovers you're looking at 900+.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What the hell is a "real set of coilovers?"
If you mean a "set of shocks with threaded bodies and adjustable spring perches," I'm still confused. It makes no difference how the threaded body is attached to the shock.
my car even with my suspension listed below still has bodyroll...I think it's all in the springs, you need stiff springs, shox and strut tower bars dont do much, they help but not much...it's mostly the spring
|eb_CRX
|eb_CRX
Oh I guess the "big stock bar" wasn't on there before I put in the master set and it swayed like a beotch huh???
I didn't even do the sway bar bushings at the same time as the lca's... that is where 85% of my body roll was eliminated..
hammer me all you want you just told me that the EXISTING piece on my car is what stopped roll... that existed BEFORE I did the master kit.
I didn't even do the sway bar bushings at the same time as the lca's... that is where 85% of my body roll was eliminated..
hammer me all you want you just told me that the EXISTING piece on my car is what stopped roll... that existed BEFORE I did the master kit.
Oh so in generaly cheap "sleeve type" coilovers aren't cheaper and shittier than GOOD "true coilover" shocks?
I must be dead wrong...
a "real set of coilovers" is one that costs more than 200 bucks and has a set of struts/shocks MATCHED to it via trial and error by the manufacturer... not just a sleeve you can slap any old cheap shock/strut into.
I must be dead wrong...
a "real set of coilovers" is one that costs more than 200 bucks and has a set of struts/shocks MATCHED to it via trial and error by the manufacturer... not just a sleeve you can slap any old cheap shock/strut into.






