I am sick of my piece of crap car. I have more money in it than I know what to do with. I am having one problem after another. I am getting code after code on this thing. The only way it will even run is with the map sensor unplugged? If I plug in the map sensor my car will go to like 4000rpm then fluctuate before stalling out and not restarting until unplugged. If anyone is close to me I will pay you to fix this car, ori f you have shop I will take the car on a trailer to you. The cars specs are below. Help me before I blow this hunk up


2001 Integra GSR
Fully built bottom end
GE sleeves 84.5mm
Eagle rods
Endyn Pistons
All new seals and oil pump
Ferrea valves .5mm oversize
Port and polish by Endyn
Stock Cams
Venom Cam gears
JG intake manifold
780cc injectors with oem resistor pack
Aeromotive FPR
GE Fuel Rail
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Precision SC54 turbo
PWR intercooler
Equal length Turbo manifold
Hondata S100 with boost


Modified by 18gTeg at 3:56 PM 6/25/2003

 

I want to point my finger at the electronic system. Who installed it and who tuned it?

 

It hasn't been tuned yet since I can't drive the car. I am just using the base map right now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 18gTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It hasn't been tuned yet since I can't drive the car. I am just using the base map right now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

id take it to a hondata tuner...sounds like some ecu problem.

You can try...putting in the stock injectors and the stock ecu...to see if it idles...it should. Just dont go boosting!

liam

 

did you check the right Map sensor option on the rom editor to the map sensor you;re using ?

stan

 

this doesen't help. But i know exactly how you feel. Just take some deep breaths, and take some exclusive looks at the electronics, there is definately something not correct there. hope you get your problem solved. Problems suck so much, but once they're solved it feels ooh so good.

 

Get in contact with Boosted hybrid he's a hondata tuner and could probaly help you out.
IM him here on the board or email him.

http://www.boosted-hybrid.com/

 

Yeah I will help you out for sure. Pm me and we'll discuss the problems, I am sure everything can be fixed.

 

hrm.. map sensor... make sure the hondata base map is set for a 3-bar or the stock map depending on which one you have. that might be an easy fix.

 

Sound like a wirring problem, do you have a obd II &gt; obdI adaptor, chek it, even a bad map in the hondata will not act like that or maybe the 3 bar to stock diff. Who made your stock map in the 100s, did you give him all info of your set-up

 

Did you ever bother to check what codes were being given?

 

I will pay you to come up and help me if thats possible?

 

yeah I am getting a code 14 or a code 10. but with the map unplugged I get zero check engine lights or codes

 

I even tried a GM 3 bar but it runs the same way

 

im guessing that you just started the car after all this work, or after you installed the hondata?

did you just install the engine?

if so(this might be a dumb question) check the map sensor and Tps connection....they are very similar, so similar that i have swapped them once...

the car will semi run, but once it goes to closed loop it will run like crap...

sometimes its the most simpleist things, i have had problems like these before and have checked all the really hard things first and then check the stupid simple thing and it be the problem...

just a suggestion

 

10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve

Those are your DTC's. Take it to a Hondata tuner, like boosted hybrid, sounds like it's overfueling as well. Did you check the plugs?

 

Do you have the "Missing Link" MAP sensor adaptor?

http://www.synapseengineering.com/html/ml001.html

 

He doesnt need it with hondata.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wait dont mean to jump in again....but you can swap those connectors also...i have seen that done before too...

but when we swapped those the car didnt even start.....

but its worth checking

i would say verify all the wiring before blaming he computer

 

so boosted hybrid came up to help me today but with no avail. It seems as though my replacement Hondata took a crap on me again. He checked everything for me and it all points to a dead ECU again. This is the 2nd bad one I have gotten so far. I will let everyone know what happens after I get my replacement back from Hondata again. Once again thanks Boosted Hybrid for your help and support today. It makes me feel better that everything on my end is correct.

 

Boostedhybrid . A long ride to the boonies, wasn't it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 18gTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It seems as though my replacement Hondata took a crap on me again. He checked everything for me and it all points to a dead ECU again. This is the 2nd bad one I have gotten so far.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just curious was it the ECU or Hondata?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lazerus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this doesen't help. But i know exactly how you feel. Just take some deep breaths, and take some exclusive looks at the electronics, there is definately something not correct there. hope you get your problem solved. Problems suck so much, but once they're solved it feels ooh so good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Heh, I know how that feels. I've had thoughts of lighting the car on fire a few times as well!
Hope you get everything worked out!

 

It was a bad Hondata chipped P28 Ecu

 

The ecu apparently wasnt taking into considering any map sensor calculations. We could unplug the map sensor and the engine would idle and not throw a code, but the idle was extremely rough. I tested the voltage input from the sensor as base, which read correct then tested while the engine was running and the voltage input was still correct. The only possible conclusion is that the ecu was prepped bad in some manner. This is the third one of those types to go bad...