i know this is a noobie question, but...

i was just wondering what were some of the advantages and disadvantages of having an OBD1 motor in a 2000 Honda Civic CX hatchback. what about an OBD2 motor's advantages/disadvantages? thanks.

 

Not all OBD1 engines or electronics will pass smog refs, state laws, etc. in your 2000 Civic so you might want to check around.

I'd get an OBD2 engine for lower miles and run a jumper harness with a re-chipped P28 or better, Hondata for tuning.

OBD2 is too check engine light proned. Constant o2 codes, catalyst effieciency low codes, random misfires, etc. I am not a fan of OBD2 at all.

Every major ECU tuner for Honda bases their programs on OBD1 platforms with the exception of Hondata's newest RSX and Civic Si programs, but nobody to my knowledge even messes with 1996-2000 ECUs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not all OBD1 engines or electronics will pass smog refs, state laws, etc. in your 2000 Civic so you might want to check around.

I'd get an OBD2 engine for lower miles and run a jumper harness with a re-chipped P28 or better, Hondata for tuning.

OBD2 is too check engine light proned. Constant o2 codes, catalyst effieciency low codes, random misfires, etc. I am not a fan of OBD2 at all.

Every major ECU tuner for Honda bases their programs on OBD1 platforms with the exception of Hondata's newest RSX and Civic Si programs, but nobody to my knowledge even messes with 1996-2000 ECUs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with Tom, yet disagree in some parts. An OBDII motor will run correctly if you have the manpower and knowledge to make it work. As long as you have everything intact, there should be no problem. My hybrid is a living example. The only codes I've thrown since the swap were due to a miswired O2 sensor and an unplugged Knock sensor. Other than that it's running like a beast, as much as OBDII allows it to.

 

would horsepower gains differ between an OBD1 and an OBD2?

 

Not to much. I've heard 10hp. never seen a difference.

I just know it's easier to tune an obd1 less emmisions which has been stated earlier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I agree with Tom, yet disagree in some parts. An OBDII motor will run correctly if you have the manpower and knowledge to make it work. As long as you have everything intact, there should be no problem. My hybrid is a living example. The only codes I've thrown since the swap were due to a miswired O2 sensor and an unplugged Knock sensor. Other than that it's running like a beast, as much as OBDII allows it to. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I wasn't even talking about hybrids. Stock OBD2 cars throw more codes than OBD1 cars from what I've seen throught the years of working at a shop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I wasn't even talking about hybrids. Stock OBD2 cars throw more codes than OBD1 cars from what I've seen throught the years of working at a shop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's only natural since OBDII engines are somewhat more complicated than their OBDI counterparts. I feel that CEL's thrown for an OBDII car are more beneficial at solving problems. It give you a better foundation on what may be going wrong with the car. This is all my opinion. OBDI cars are much easier to tune with though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's only natural since OBDII engines are somewhat more complicated than their OBDI counterparts. I feel that CEL's thrown for an OBDII car are more beneficial at solving problems. It give you a better foundation on what may be going wrong with the car. This is all my opinion. OBDI cars are much easier to tune with though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would have to agree with you there.

Only thing about OBD2 that pisses me off is the second o2 sensor.

 

imo... obd2 has TOTALLY negated the purpose of having on-board-diagnostics...

the friggen light comes on for an oil change for gods sake(well in my bro's odyssey)... that's just dumb.

I'm obd1 and I have NEVER had the light come on EVER... except when I left something un-plugged...

OBD1- light comes on... BAD things
OBD2- light comes on... cuz it felt like it may possibly have the need to remind you of something MAYBE.

Keep It Simple Stupid... damn honda... turning it into a Go to your dealer light instead of an actual valuable INDICATOR that something is wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">imo... obd2 has TOTALLY negated the purpose of having on-board-diagnostics...

the friggen light comes on for an oil change for gods sake(well in my bro's odyssey)... that's just dumb.

I'm obd1 and I have NEVER had the light come on EVER... except when I left something un-plugged...

OBD1- light comes on... BAD things
OBD2- light comes on... cuz it felt like it may possibly have the need to remind you of something MAYBE.

Keep It Simple Stupid... damn honda... turning it into a Go to your dealer light instead of an actual valuable INDICATOR that something is wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's a difference between the Check Engine Light and the Maintenance Indicator Light.

 

OBD1 conversion makes it possible for me to properly dyno tune my V-AFC and camgears without having my car stall and throw CELs constantly.

This makes me a happy camper. Without the OBD1 conversion, I might have modded my car with a flamethrower!

 

with all this info, i am interested in having an OBD1 setup. if i did purshase a motor which is OBD2, could i just get an OBD1 converter, and would i be all good?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phase2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with all this info, i am interested in having an OBD1 setup. if i did purshase a motor which is OBD2, could i just get an OBD1 converter, and would i be all good?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes you would be all good. On my car (97dx civic) i have a 94 b18b, obd 2 injectors and plugs, obd2 ls dist. etc. All you do is plug in the jumper and youre good to go. I had to rewire the iac valve though since mine was a DX but thats it. If you have a car that uses a 2 wire iac its plug and play. Oh and OBD1 motherfucking rocks yo. Only way to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd get an OBD2 engine for lower miles and run a jumper harness with a re-chipped P28 or better, Hondata for tuning.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
So this means if i get my b18b obdII, i can use my current p28 off my EH3 to energize that torque monster? What will I need to do to the p28? I mean you said re-chip it but, can you elaborate bro? Soldering, wirecutting, shortcircuiting, etc. Tools needed for the job... you know stuff like that. sorry to go off topic btw

 

Dude you need to send the P28 to someone who does ECU chipping. They need to chip it to dual cam specs. Go to this website http://www.ericksracing.com/ look under ecu tuning. They are really good and really quick at getting you your ecu back.. Good luck.

 

When I was running obd2, the check engine was on 24/7 which I got used to and just left it as is since it was coding for insignificant things.

Now I'm obd1 and the check engine light never comes on leaving me paranoid. What if something is wrong? broken? sensors working? mileage?

I think I'm going to unplug the primary o2 sensor just to see if it'll code. But I'd hate to ruin the cat when it runs rich, but what if it doesn't code? Ack. The dilemma. How long does it take to code once you mess something up?

JLi

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jimsterli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I was running obd2, the check engine was on 24/7 which I got used to and just left it as is since it was coding for insignificant things.

Now I'm obd1 and the check engine light never comes on leaving me paranoid. What if something is wrong? broken? sensors working? mileage?

I think I'm going to unplug the primary o2 sensor just to see if it'll code. But I'd hate to ruin the cat when it runs rich, but what if it doesn't code? Ack. The dilemma. How long does it take to code once you mess something up?

JLi</TD></TR></TABLE>

OBD1 will throw codes if you have a real problem. Unplug that 02 sensor and it might take 10 minutes of driving, but you will throw a CEL if everything is hooked up properly.

I have NEVER thrown a code with any of my hybrids except for a Vehicle Speed Sensor code once when I put the B18C5 into my 1992 CX because the plug for the sensor had a bit of water/degreaser in it from me pressure washing the motor while it was out.