LSvtec/B20vtec water pump - why change to B18C1/5?
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I understand that the LS/B20 water pumps have less teeth than the vtec pumps. But when building LS/B20vtec motors, why does everyone recommend the GSR/B16 water pumps?
The LS/B20 water pumps flow more from low to high RPM, isn't that a good thing? Shouldn't that be better for high compression and high reving motors?
The LS/B20 water pumps flow more from low to high RPM, isn't that a good thing? Shouldn't that be better for high compression and high reving motors?
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Here's the numbers(all rated at 6,000rpm)
B16A oil pump 53qpm
B17A oil pump 54qpm
B18C oil pump 75qpm
B18B oil pump 53qpm
B16A water pump 140qpm
B17A water pump 140qpm
B18C water pump 148qpm
B18B water pump 148qpm
I got this info. from an old thread. Now we're talking about the water pump. The LS/B20 water pumps have 19 teeth opposed to the vtec water pumps having 22 teeth. So the LS/B20 water pumps flows at a faster rate...so why ditch it for a GSR/B16 water pump?
B16A oil pump 53qpm
B17A oil pump 54qpm
B18C oil pump 75qpm
B18B oil pump 53qpm
B16A water pump 140qpm
B17A water pump 140qpm
B18C water pump 148qpm
B18B water pump 148qpm
I got this info. from an old thread. Now we're talking about the water pump. The LS/B20 water pumps have 19 teeth opposed to the vtec water pumps having 22 teeth. So the LS/B20 water pumps flows at a faster rate...so why ditch it for a GSR/B16 water pump?
My theory is that you don't want to pump water thru the motor at a high rate. The water pump on a non vtec is not designed for a motor going to 8500 rpm.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AussieB20vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My theory is that you don't want to pump water thru the motor at a high rate. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly. Pumping coolant through your motor too quickly *can* compromise cooling capacity because there isn't sufficient time for the coolant to absorb the heat.
And which OIL pump/timing belt are you running?
Exactly. Pumping coolant through your motor too quickly *can* compromise cooling capacity because there isn't sufficient time for the coolant to absorb the heat.
And which OIL pump/timing belt are you running?
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You're close, but here's the explanation...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the whole idea behind switching to a gsr water pump is because you are going to be spending more time at higher rev's. The concept being, if you are moving too much water through the radiator too fast, it doesnt get a chance to cool down and just enters the engine still rather hot, leading to an endless heat cycle. Of course, thats just the theory behind it. In reality, I dont think it makes much difference, esp. if you do any sort of cooling upgrade.
Because I bought a brand new b20, I felt no need to buy a new 130 dollar water pump, and so I just bought a new LS timing belt. Im guessing since I am pushing more water, it takes more energy to do so. I guess that makes me loose 1 or 2 hp?
If your replacing anyway, go with a GSR pump/belt
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tinkerbell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no you wnat the velocity to be slower so it actually picks up the heat,
having coolant flowing fast will not cool an engine better, it will make it overheat becasue the heat stays in the engine and doesnt get into the coolant....
see here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=240352
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Makes more sense?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the whole idea behind switching to a gsr water pump is because you are going to be spending more time at higher rev's. The concept being, if you are moving too much water through the radiator too fast, it doesnt get a chance to cool down and just enters the engine still rather hot, leading to an endless heat cycle. Of course, thats just the theory behind it. In reality, I dont think it makes much difference, esp. if you do any sort of cooling upgrade.
Because I bought a brand new b20, I felt no need to buy a new 130 dollar water pump, and so I just bought a new LS timing belt. Im guessing since I am pushing more water, it takes more energy to do so. I guess that makes me loose 1 or 2 hp?
If your replacing anyway, go with a GSR pump/belt
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tinkerbell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no you wnat the velocity to be slower so it actually picks up the heat,
having coolant flowing fast will not cool an engine better, it will make it overheat becasue the heat stays in the engine and doesnt get into the coolant....
see here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=240352
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Makes more sense?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98CTRCoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And which OIL pump/timing belt are you running?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm running new GSR timing belt and water pump for my B20vtec, I changed it due to suggestions but didn't really know the truth of WHY behind it. Also I have an extra LS block on the side, thought I could use the LS pump since it's practically brandnew.
And which OIL pump/timing belt are you running?
</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm running new GSR timing belt and water pump for my B20vtec, I changed it due to suggestions but didn't really know the truth of WHY behind it. Also I have an extra LS block on the side, thought I could use the LS pump since it's practically brandnew.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So what was the point of this thread again?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I already got my answer from another thread, do you have any input in this?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you change the # of teeth, how does that not affect the cam teeth and crank gear teeth?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The cam gear and oil pump/crank teeth are the same size as the water pump gear. You just have to match the timing belt with the water pump due to length.
I already got my answer from another thread, do you have any input in this?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you change the # of teeth, how does that not affect the cam teeth and crank gear teeth?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The cam gear and oil pump/crank teeth are the same size as the water pump gear. You just have to match the timing belt with the water pump due to length.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by granada_sun »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so to sum it up for the ignorant people like me
, a b16 water pump/oil pump will work fine on ls/vtec set up......right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The B16 and LS oil pumps have the same flow. You need to match the water pump with the timing belt, and you can't use B16 timing belts for LSvtec, it's too short.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s2geezy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what's the advantage of putting a vtec OIL pump instead of non-vtec oil pump?</TD></TR></TABLE>
More oil flow.
, a b16 water pump/oil pump will work fine on ls/vtec set up......right?</TD></TR></TABLE>The B16 and LS oil pumps have the same flow. You need to match the water pump with the timing belt, and you can't use B16 timing belts for LSvtec, it's too short.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s2geezy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what's the advantage of putting a vtec OIL pump instead of non-vtec oil pump?</TD></TR></TABLE>
More oil flow.
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