i know that your timing change when you mill your head. does that goes for thin headgasket too? if yes how much? thanks

 

I'm also interested, anyone have any insight?

 

.012" = 1 degree

in form of removal of material from block and/or head and/or headgasket

the same measurement also adds about .3 points of compression


Modified by BustaNutt-616 at 3:00 PM 5/31/2003

 

Just to complement, a thinner head gasket and/or head milling retards camshaft timing in respect to the crankshaft. A thicker headgasket ( a la Toda) would advance camshaft timing ( and of course reduce the CR).

 

so a spoon headgasket retard your timing 1 degree?

 

I milled my head 20 Thousandths and have Endyn Flat top valves which are one mil oversized... What should my timing be set at? Thanks

BTW>>> Compression shows 290 accross if that would help.. Just want to make sure my timing is set correctly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g5r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so a spoon headgasket retard your timing 1 degree?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am not sure about the thickness difference between the Spoon and OEM gasket but from my experience (limited at best) my Spoon gaket retarded my timing wroughly 2.5 degrees at the camgears.

[QUOTE]I milled my head 20 Thousandths and have Endyn Flat top valves which are one mil oversized... What should my timing be set at? Thanks
BTW&gt;&gt;&gt; Compression shows 290 accross if that would help.. Just want to make sure my timing is set correctly[QUOTE]

your ovesized valve will not contribute to timing changes. If the rule of thumb cited above is good 20 thousandths of milling shoud retard about 1.75 degrees. The way I used to reset the camshafts at zero is to position the crankshaft timing marks correctly and then, by looking at the center marks on the camgears, evaluate by how many degrees each camshaft is off alignment. After that you should finalyze the timing on a dyno.
Not sure if what I am saying is clear
_______




Modified by JPP at 12:13 AM 6/1/2003

 

That's not exactly tru....flat top valves will increase your compression, and if you've also milled your head, you may need to push your timing back in order not to ping or detonate.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aaj23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's not exactly tru....flat top valves will increase your compression,</TD></TR></TABLE>

By what, .1 or .2:1 ?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and if you've also milled your head, you may need to push your timing back in order not to ping or detonate.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

No you dont, you wont change timing unless you short the ECU while the distributor is moved.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No you dont, you wont change timing unless you short the ECU while the distributor is moved.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If i want to change my timing, I burn a new chip, simple as that....

And you're right, for just flat valves, you don't need to do anything, but if it's in conjunction with other stuff, which it usually is, such as higher compression pistons or a milled head/welded combustion chamber, then you may need to back up your timing, so that you don't ping on pump gas....I think I must have been unclear on what I was getting at...if you have over sized flat valves that are just barely putting you over say 12:1 as opposed to 11.8:1, it may require a timing change that you might not ordinarily do.....sorry...I guess sometimes I don't make clear what I'm trying to say...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aaj23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If i want to change my timing, I burn a new chip, simple as that....

And you're right, for just flat valves, you don't need to do anything, but if it's in conjunction with other stuff, which it usually is, such as higher compression pistons or a milled head/welded combustion chamber, then you may need to back up your timing, so that you don't ping on pump gas....I think I must have been unclear on what I was getting at...if you have over sized flat valves that are just barely putting you over say 12:1 as opposed to 11.8:1, it may require a timing change that you might not ordinarily do.....sorry...I guess sometimes I don't make clear what I'm trying to say...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand what you are saying. My comment on the valves not influencing camshaft timing was mostly compared to milling or thinner head gasket which actually physically change the timing of the camshafts. Of course anything that will bump your CR up to a point, will require you to modify the timing so as not to damage the engine

 

I believe the stock B16 HG is 0.029" or 0.028" so I have my dizzy set to 16*, but since I'm running a 0.057" Cometic headgasket, should I set my distributor to 13.5* or 18.5*?

THANKS!