AARGG! 3" Short Ram - Power Loss - WHY?
I installed a generic 3" Short Ram with a K&N Fiter on the end. Makes a nice noise but it seems that the acceleration and torque are lacking from 2000-4000. I spend a bunch of time driving in those RPM ranges.
I have adjusted how far the filter is on the end of the tube and how tight all the clamps.
Is the intake just too big? Is it the fact it is a short ram? Do I need more fuel via adjustable fuel pump?
After I installed it, I disconnected my battery, started the engine and let it idle and stoped the engine, then started again. Probably not that useful
This is my first mod, any suggestions?
I have adjusted how far the filter is on the end of the tube and how tight all the clamps.
Is the intake just too big? Is it the fact it is a short ram? Do I need more fuel via adjustable fuel pump?
After I installed it, I disconnected my battery, started the engine and let it idle and stoped the engine, then started again. Probably not that useful
This is my first mod, any suggestions?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fujio001 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is my first mod, any suggestions?</TD></TR></TABLE>
An intake isn't meant as a huge power gain, if you are looking to help your 2-4000k range get a some headers and exhaust and it will feel a lot better. You have a gsr or ls?
This is my first mod, any suggestions?</TD></TR></TABLE>
An intake isn't meant as a huge power gain, if you are looking to help your 2-4000k range get a some headers and exhaust and it will feel a lot better. You have a gsr or ls?
are you trying to say that a short ram with k&n filter makes less power then the stock airbox with resonator? and this is according to the *** dyno?
hmmm, ive noticed that on k&n filters, the front or top of the filter is "closed". or it does not have filter material there(hard to explain) anyway, on a short ram, the top/front of the filter is facing the front of the car and this is where the air is directly drawn into the intake tube, but because the k&n filter has a closed top/front, this might be the reason.
i have a generic shorty as well, mines not 3", but it does have a open front/top filter. so when im driving there is direct air flow intot he intake pipe.
but then again, the intake is there for like 5 hp gain. so dont expect anyhting major, and this is your first mod. do an exhaust next aand see where your car stands.
hmmm, ive noticed that on k&n filters, the front or top of the filter is "closed". or it does not have filter material there(hard to explain) anyway, on a short ram, the top/front of the filter is facing the front of the car and this is where the air is directly drawn into the intake tube, but because the k&n filter has a closed top/front, this might be the reason.
i have a generic shorty as well, mines not 3", but it does have a open front/top filter. so when im driving there is direct air flow intot he intake pipe.
but then again, the intake is there for like 5 hp gain. so dont expect anyhting major, and this is your first mod. do an exhaust next aand see where your car stands.
What car do you drive again?
A GSR or lower...it doesn't really matter at this point. The matter of fact is, you probably did lose power than gain one from the INCORRECTLY sized diameter of the intake. In this case bigger doesn't mean better. You gotta trust me on this one.
Think about it...for Type-Rs most big brand name companies use 3" diameter intake piping, whereas for GSRs and other models, they use 2.5" diameter or smaller intake piping.
just my 02.
cheers.
NRG
A GSR or lower...it doesn't really matter at this point. The matter of fact is, you probably did lose power than gain one from the INCORRECTLY sized diameter of the intake. In this case bigger doesn't mean better. You gotta trust me on this one.
Think about it...for Type-Rs most big brand name companies use 3" diameter intake piping, whereas for GSRs and other models, they use 2.5" diameter or smaller intake piping.
just my 02.
cheers.
NRG
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2001gsRguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aww i was just about to buy an AEM short ram. will the brands make a difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>
brands dont matter, just get a good filter, there are thouands of threads of comparisons of intake manufacturers...just search and you will find your answers.
brands dont matter, just get a good filter, there are thouands of threads of comparisons of intake manufacturers...just search and you will find your answers.
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Let me add to the previous statement. Brands dont matter when it comes to short ram intakes. They do however when it comes to the Cold Air Intakes. The piping and fit of the tube is different with the various manufacturers. By experience, the inexpensive CAI's on ebay wont offer the exacting OEM like fit that an AEM or Injen CAI pipe will.
Short rams are fairly straight forward and are pretty much the same all around.
EDIT Typos
Short rams are fairly straight forward and are pretty much the same all around.
EDIT Typos
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Did you all think maybe it because the filter is sucking in HOT underhood air? Hot air is less dense than cool air. My K&N inside my stock airbox draws from behind the turn signal, feels nice.
Okay i've been through this.
You gain higher end horsepower but lose low end torque with a short ram intake.
With a standard vtec...
On an automatic you totally lose. There is something to do with the automatic computer and the amount of air going in that you will actually lose power.
If u really want to use a cheap intake put one together from hardware that you can buy at any hardware store.
Just make sure it is long enough to fit down where your resonator used to be.
You did remove the resonator right?
You gain higher end horsepower but lose low end torque with a short ram intake.
With a standard vtec...
On an automatic you totally lose. There is something to do with the automatic computer and the amount of air going in that you will actually lose power.
If u really want to use a cheap intake put one together from hardware that you can buy at any hardware store.
Just make sure it is long enough to fit down where your resonator used to be.
You did remove the resonator right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What car do you drive again?
A GSR or lower...it doesn't really matter at this point. The matter of fact is, you probably did lose power than gain one from the INCORRECTLY sized diameter of the intake. In this case bigger doesn't mean better. You gotta trust me on this one.
Think about it...for Type-Rs most big brand name companies use 3" diameter intake piping, whereas for GSRs and other models, they use 2.5" diameter or smaller intake piping.
just my 02.
cheers.
NRG</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is not true. AEM is and INJEN seem to use 2.5 inch piping for the B18B, but many other companies use 3 inch piping. After extensive testing, I have found that my generic 3 inch short ram performs a LOT better than the AEM short ram with 2.5 inch piping.
Of course the setup is also an important factor, as you will see bigger gains with an aftermarket intake vs. the stock intake when there are more modifications. My car is only lightly modified with DC headers and an RS*R exhaust. You won't notice much of a gain with a short ram as a first and only modification.
When I reinstalled my stock intake for comparison, the car performed horribly... It felt like a stock Civic EX. An aftermarket intake is definitely an important modification if you have headers and exhaust. You need to complete the I/H/E, and having the free-er flowing intake allows the engine to breathe better.
The diameter and curvature of the intake pipe have a significant effect on the flow characteristics of the air, which thereby affects performance. I have gone through a number of intakes in the 9 years that I have owned my car, and the 3 inch mandrel bent pipe provides the best high end power and throttle response.
You can see a previous post about my AEM short ram comparison:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=270191
Also take a look at the thread that was posted earlier, about the J's Racing intake posted by newgsrdriver... I have always felt that larger intake chambers are better for throttle response and high end power. That is probably why many American and Japanese track integras use larger intake pipes like J's, and even NSX air boxes.
Another thing is to follow the correct procedure for resetting the car's computer. If the ECU has not adjusted to the increased air flow, you will be more likely to see losses in power than gains.
I also noticed that you said, "acceleration and torque are lacking from 2000-4000." This is not surprising on a lightly modified car, since short ram intakes aren't known for low end power. You will see more of a gain up near 5000-7000. Power is also affected by the temperature of the intake charge as you probably know. This is why it is important to route cold air up to the intake using dryer hose or something. When I did this, there was a marked improvement in performance. AEM CAIs are known for their power spike in the lower rpms, so maybe this is a better intake for you. Personally, if I had the $$$, I would go with a J's racing intake with cold air ducting to the front air dam. Check out how it beats the AEM CAI on the dyno... The stock Type R box even performed better.
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1
A GSR or lower...it doesn't really matter at this point. The matter of fact is, you probably did lose power than gain one from the INCORRECTLY sized diameter of the intake. In this case bigger doesn't mean better. You gotta trust me on this one.
Think about it...for Type-Rs most big brand name companies use 3" diameter intake piping, whereas for GSRs and other models, they use 2.5" diameter or smaller intake piping.
just my 02.
cheers.
NRG</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is not true. AEM is and INJEN seem to use 2.5 inch piping for the B18B, but many other companies use 3 inch piping. After extensive testing, I have found that my generic 3 inch short ram performs a LOT better than the AEM short ram with 2.5 inch piping.
Of course the setup is also an important factor, as you will see bigger gains with an aftermarket intake vs. the stock intake when there are more modifications. My car is only lightly modified with DC headers and an RS*R exhaust. You won't notice much of a gain with a short ram as a first and only modification.
When I reinstalled my stock intake for comparison, the car performed horribly... It felt like a stock Civic EX. An aftermarket intake is definitely an important modification if you have headers and exhaust. You need to complete the I/H/E, and having the free-er flowing intake allows the engine to breathe better.
The diameter and curvature of the intake pipe have a significant effect on the flow characteristics of the air, which thereby affects performance. I have gone through a number of intakes in the 9 years that I have owned my car, and the 3 inch mandrel bent pipe provides the best high end power and throttle response.
You can see a previous post about my AEM short ram comparison:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=270191
Also take a look at the thread that was posted earlier, about the J's Racing intake posted by newgsrdriver... I have always felt that larger intake chambers are better for throttle response and high end power. That is probably why many American and Japanese track integras use larger intake pipes like J's, and even NSX air boxes.
Another thing is to follow the correct procedure for resetting the car's computer. If the ECU has not adjusted to the increased air flow, you will be more likely to see losses in power than gains.
I also noticed that you said, "acceleration and torque are lacking from 2000-4000." This is not surprising on a lightly modified car, since short ram intakes aren't known for low end power. You will see more of a gain up near 5000-7000. Power is also affected by the temperature of the intake charge as you probably know. This is why it is important to route cold air up to the intake using dryer hose or something. When I did this, there was a marked improvement in performance. AEM CAIs are known for their power spike in the lower rpms, so maybe this is a better intake for you. Personally, if I had the $$$, I would go with a J's racing intake with cold air ducting to the front air dam. Check out how it beats the AEM CAI on the dyno... The stock Type R box even performed better.
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1
The calculated *BEST* intake diameter size is based on your throttle body, and it should be 25% more cross diameter than the bore of the TB.
The optimal size of the TB is based on your intake manifold plenum, runner length and size.
See a pattern? It all works together as a system, you can't just pick random parts and expect great performance.
3" is overkill, you would need about a 64mm TB in order for it to work properly together as a system.
I am not sure what testing you have done NightRider, maybe you can post some dyno graphs?
Diameter is very important, you go larger and shorter(length of the pipe) you can flow higher quantities of air at the sacrifice of velocity. This alters where volumetric effiecency occurs, generally the larger the diameter and the shorter the pipe the higher it occurs.
There is a limit though, if you are throwing more air at the TB than it can flow, its just going to slow down your intake velocity and decrease performance. The key is properly size, not just the biggest pipe you can find.
The optimal size of the TB is based on your intake manifold plenum, runner length and size.
See a pattern? It all works together as a system, you can't just pick random parts and expect great performance.
3" is overkill, you would need about a 64mm TB in order for it to work properly together as a system.
I am not sure what testing you have done NightRider, maybe you can post some dyno graphs?
Diameter is very important, you go larger and shorter(length of the pipe) you can flow higher quantities of air at the sacrifice of velocity. This alters where volumetric effiecency occurs, generally the larger the diameter and the shorter the pipe the higher it occurs.
There is a limit though, if you are throwing more air at the TB than it can flow, its just going to slow down your intake velocity and decrease performance. The key is properly size, not just the biggest pipe you can find.
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vinuneuro
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