My reinstallation of the ITR 22mm Swaybar on my GSR...no BSQ/Beaks kit =).
UPDATE 2003|5|21: Check out page 2. Thank you!
This past weekend, I had to re-install my ITR sway bar. I was doing a maintenance on my rear bumper when I realized that 3 bolts had came off the sway bar...I must have not torqued them to specs and came loose. I know I wouldn't risk driving it like that so I had to take action and replace the bolts and reinstall my sway bar. I also had the camera with me and snapped a number of pictures...
BTW: Do not flame me, but I didn't use a BSQ or Beaks kit to install my sway bar. I just used a swaybar Prothane kit. I had to do some grinding to flush the kit to the stock mounts.

Prothane swaybar mounting kit from JC Whitney.

Heres the Prothane swaybar mount with my stock reversed GSR swaybar mounts (you will notice the grinded part clear in the picture).

GSR Sway endlinks with the ITR sway. One of the bolts missing was the one that connects the endlink to the sway bar.

Closer picture of the left side with the Prothane swaybar mount.

The new bolt to connect the endlink to the sway bar.

Theres my Tein HA...yay.

Ohh a rear shot...wheres the swaybar?

The swaybar waiting to be re-installed.
[IMG][/IMG]
Another shot.

Bolted the endlinks to the ITR rear lower control arms first.

I then bolted/torqued the mounts on to the chassy.

Heres the swaybar installed. The brakelines were ziptied.

Finally, yet another shot of my Teins...
flames, comments...welcome.
OH: References to how I installed my swaybar before...
http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/ITRon5G.html
cheers.
NRG
UPDATE 2003|5|21: Check out page 2. Thank you!
Modified by NightRider-gsR at 3:35 AM 5/31/2003
This past weekend, I had to re-install my ITR sway bar. I was doing a maintenance on my rear bumper when I realized that 3 bolts had came off the sway bar...I must have not torqued them to specs and came loose. I know I wouldn't risk driving it like that so I had to take action and replace the bolts and reinstall my sway bar. I also had the camera with me and snapped a number of pictures...
BTW: Do not flame me, but I didn't use a BSQ or Beaks kit to install my sway bar. I just used a swaybar Prothane kit. I had to do some grinding to flush the kit to the stock mounts.

Prothane swaybar mounting kit from JC Whitney.

Heres the Prothane swaybar mount with my stock reversed GSR swaybar mounts (you will notice the grinded part clear in the picture).

GSR Sway endlinks with the ITR sway. One of the bolts missing was the one that connects the endlink to the sway bar.

Closer picture of the left side with the Prothane swaybar mount.

The new bolt to connect the endlink to the sway bar.

Theres my Tein HA...yay.

Ohh a rear shot...wheres the swaybar?

The swaybar waiting to be re-installed.
[IMG][/IMG]
Another shot.

Bolted the endlinks to the ITR rear lower control arms first.

I then bolted/torqued the mounts on to the chassy.

Heres the swaybar installed. The brakelines were ziptied.

Finally, yet another shot of my Teins...
flames, comments...welcome.
OH: References to how I installed my swaybar before...
http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/ITRon5G.html
cheers.
NRG
UPDATE 2003|5|21: Check out page 2. Thank you!
Modified by NightRider-gsR at 3:35 AM 5/31/2003
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,027
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Well I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you NEED either a BSQ or Beaks kit. Mounting that MUCH stiffer bar to those OEM brackets, away from the subframe, such that the bar can exert torque on the subframe, is exactly what will cause it to tear out. You need to mount the bushings and D-brackets directly onto the subframe using some sort of mount kit.
hmmm i had my 22mm swaybar mounted like you for about 3 months... it tore out leaving 3 big holes in my subframe on the first track day i attended with the new bar.
don't repeat that mistake, you need a proper mounting kit.
best of luck
don't repeat that mistake, you need a proper mounting kit.
best of luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youngvedder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have it this way (5 month) and to date, have had no problems...
YV</TD></TR></TABLE>
take some good tight corners, at fast speeds. Somewhere safe tho.. See how that holds up
YV</TD></TR></TABLE>
take some good tight corners, at fast speeds. Somewhere safe tho.. See how that holds up
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For those who've had experience with both kits (BSQ/Beaks)...which one is the "bang for the buck" type? I don't autoX, however I love taking tight turns at high speeds.
Needless to say, I will be investing in one of the kits soon enough.
cheers.
NRG
Needless to say, I will be investing in one of the kits soon enough.
cheers.
NRG
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slimbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one trip to the track will fix that
</TD></TR></TABLE>
very true, anyone who is not using a kit to keep their subframe from ripping out is just asking for trouble.
be smart look at the forces on the subframe, it's very easy to see why and where it will rip out. but hey if saving 40 bucks, then spending 400 makes sense to you, don't get one
</TD></TR></TABLE>very true, anyone who is not using a kit to keep their subframe from ripping out is just asking for trouble.
be smart look at the forces on the subframe, it's very easy to see why and where it will rip out. but hey if saving 40 bucks, then spending 400 makes sense to you, don't get one
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youngvedder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have it this way (5 month) and to date, have had no problems...
YV</TD></TR></TABLE>
I autocrossed on my 22mm bar without a kit for two years before I had a small crack...it will happen eventually.
Mike
YV</TD></TR></TABLE>
I autocrossed on my 22mm bar without a kit for two years before I had a small crack...it will happen eventually.
Mike
Having three bolts come loose looks like a problem to me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youngvedder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have it this way (5 month) and to date, have had no problems...
YV</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by youngvedder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have it this way (5 month) and to date, have had no problems...
YV</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For those who've had experience with both kits (BSQ/Beaks)...which one is the "bang for the buck" type? I don't autoX, however I love taking tight turns at high speeds.
Needless to say, I will be investing in one of the kits soon enough.
cheers.
NRG</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have bsq it is cheaper. i dont remeber exactly but it is around 20 bucks and the beaks is around 60 if i remember correctly. i heard that the beaks one is harder to install but it does look more beefier but i don't think it should matter.
Needless to say, I will be investing in one of the kits soon enough.
cheers.
NRG</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have bsq it is cheaper. i dont remeber exactly but it is around 20 bucks and the beaks is around 60 if i remember correctly. i heard that the beaks one is harder to install but it does look more beefier but i don't think it should matter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you NEED either a BSQ or Beaks kit. Mounting that MUCH stiffer bar to those OEM brackets, away from the subframe, such that the bar can exert torque on the subframe, is exactly what will cause it to tear out. You need to mount the bushings and D-brackets directly onto the subframe using some sort of mount kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Listen to this guy
Listen to this guy
BSQ is just as good as the Beaks kit - and for significantly cheaper. There is not one person I know of that has had subframe tear-out with that kit.
Better safe than sorry!!
For only $20 it's worth it to have that piece of mind that your car will be ok under all circumstances. even if you haven't used one and see no damage yet, when it does happen i'm pretty sure it'll cost a lot more to fix than $20
For only $20 it's worth it to have that piece of mind that your car will be ok under all circumstances. even if you haven't used one and see no damage yet, when it does happen i'm pretty sure it'll cost a lot more to fix than $20
I dont know whats worse:
1.) spending mad coin for TEINS(good shiZ)
2.) spending no money on counter measure to insure saftey
with a part thats proven to fail under hard driving.
oh, by the way... you cant replace the subframe
1.) spending mad coin for TEINS(good shiZ)
2.) spending no money on counter measure to insure saftey
with a part thats proven to fail under hard driving.
oh, by the way... you cant replace the subframe
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 5,071
Likes: 1
From: ainrofilac, Anti Stickers
Im planning to do this soon.. how much did you get the itr sway bar for? and how much was the prothane mounting kit?
I dont know whether I should go with the bsq kit/itr sway or the comptech combo(no alteration required).. hmm..
I dont know whether I should go with the bsq kit/itr sway or the comptech combo(no alteration required).. hmm..







