HELP!!! Erratic tach on 1992 Accord
Hi there...my 92 Accord has started to have some erratic tach behaviour. I know it's NOT a slipping clutch because it does this even when it's in neutral.
Car has 172k kms on it or about 140k miles I think. Car runs perfectly, pulls strongly and is bone stock. Changed cap, rotor, plugs, wires and the distributor coil wire too, no effect.
Basically, once you get the car over 3000 rpms, the tach goes a bit screwy, and jumps around a bit. Over 4000, the tach starts to swing wildly - up as high as 6000, and back to 4000. Very weird. Meanwhile the car is running fine and still accelerating perfectly, no chugging, hesistation or anything.
Did a search and someone said something about a 'blue wire for the ignitor' or something? Can anyone elaborate (ideally with a pic!)??
PLEASE HELP!
Car has 172k kms on it or about 140k miles I think. Car runs perfectly, pulls strongly and is bone stock. Changed cap, rotor, plugs, wires and the distributor coil wire too, no effect.
Basically, once you get the car over 3000 rpms, the tach goes a bit screwy, and jumps around a bit. Over 4000, the tach starts to swing wildly - up as high as 6000, and back to 4000. Very weird. Meanwhile the car is running fine and still accelerating perfectly, no chugging, hesistation or anything.
Did a search and someone said something about a 'blue wire for the ignitor' or something? Can anyone elaborate (ideally with a pic!)??
PLEASE HELP!
Let me see if I can help you out. I don't know if you are having the same problem that I had. I swaped a jdm H22 into my accord, ran fine than the tach would start to freeze, meaning the needle would rise then all of a sudden stop at 3700. Then it would jump to 5500 and continue to move as normal. The tranny was fine, engine accelerated fine, gear selection was fine. So I talked to a friend at a Honda dealership and he said that the tachs do go bad sometime. It is a 10 year old car.
Post back if you need more info.
Post back if you need more info.
Hey thanks for the reply...that's not exactly the same problem I'm having.
Basically, when my tach hits a certain readout, say 3500, it'll shoot up to say 4000, then back to 3500, back to 4000 or anywhere in between. Bouncing back and forth so to speak.
Basically, when my tach hits a certain readout, say 3500, it'll shoot up to say 4000, then back to 3500, back to 4000 or anywhere in between. Bouncing back and forth so to speak.
i got that . use electro greese in your distrobutor check this out . .on the G2 forum bout a wacky tach!
The Generation 2 Integra Club and those posting these tips stress that performing these tips/tricks are at your own risk.
No one will be held liable for error / injury but yourself.
Fix Bouncing Tachometer.
Your tach bounces around, you get a misfire, and you get a code 15. Ok, the reason this is happening is because you are not getting a GOOD connection on your igniter. Those connections have to be TIGHT! Also, dielectric grease will help a TON! This is how you fix the problem.
Remove your distributor cap. If you still have the dist shield in place under the cap, then you will have to remove the rotor, and the shield. If your shield is already gone, you do not need to remove the rotor. When looking down onto the distributor, you will see the coil, the rotor, and some wires leading to a small, brown thing. This is the igniter. There will be 4 connections. 1 on the side, and 3 on top. Honda uses spade connectors to make these connections to the igniter. Remove, and work on only ONE CONNECTOR AT A TIME. Take each connector, and with it removed from the igniter, place it in the needle-nose pliers and crimp down a little tighter on the spade connector. Then put a dab of dielectric grease inside the spade connector. Then put the connector back on the igniter. The connection should be very tight. Do this with all the connections to the igniter. Replace the rotor (if you removed it) and then the cap. Then, under the fuse panel under the hood, remove the ECU and Hazard fuses for about 60 seconds. Replace both, and restart the car WITHOUT touching the gas. Let it run for 60 seconds without ANY accessories on. Then after 60 seconds, turn ALL the accessories on and let it run for 60 seconds. Turn the car off, restart it, and go have fun.
I was having this very same problem with my 92 GSR. After trial and error I found this to be the problem. I fixed it the first time without dielectric grease. The problem came back a few days later. I then redid the procedure and used dielectric grease. It has now been one month, no problems. Also, I did pick up a power gain as well.
Eric
gsrrcr92@aol.com
The Generation 2 Integra Club and those posting these tips stress that performing these tips/tricks are at your own risk.
No one will be held liable for error / injury but yourself.
Fix Bouncing Tachometer.
Your tach bounces around, you get a misfire, and you get a code 15. Ok, the reason this is happening is because you are not getting a GOOD connection on your igniter. Those connections have to be TIGHT! Also, dielectric grease will help a TON! This is how you fix the problem.
Remove your distributor cap. If you still have the dist shield in place under the cap, then you will have to remove the rotor, and the shield. If your shield is already gone, you do not need to remove the rotor. When looking down onto the distributor, you will see the coil, the rotor, and some wires leading to a small, brown thing. This is the igniter. There will be 4 connections. 1 on the side, and 3 on top. Honda uses spade connectors to make these connections to the igniter. Remove, and work on only ONE CONNECTOR AT A TIME. Take each connector, and with it removed from the igniter, place it in the needle-nose pliers and crimp down a little tighter on the spade connector. Then put a dab of dielectric grease inside the spade connector. Then put the connector back on the igniter. The connection should be very tight. Do this with all the connections to the igniter. Replace the rotor (if you removed it) and then the cap. Then, under the fuse panel under the hood, remove the ECU and Hazard fuses for about 60 seconds. Replace both, and restart the car WITHOUT touching the gas. Let it run for 60 seconds without ANY accessories on. Then after 60 seconds, turn ALL the accessories on and let it run for 60 seconds. Turn the car off, restart it, and go have fun.
I was having this very same problem with my 92 GSR. After trial and error I found this to be the problem. I fixed it the first time without dielectric grease. The problem came back a few days later. I then redid the procedure and used dielectric grease. It has now been one month, no problems. Also, I did pick up a power gain as well.
Eric
gsrrcr92@aol.com
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