I know I've seen a topic on this before but I couldn't find it. I tried spacers on the track today for the first time and loved them. They're 5mm. Obviously there is less thread engagement. How much is enough though? I got 6 threads on. I did a google search and found that the "German norm" is 6.4 threads, some race associations ask for 3/8 inch, others say 12 mm stud should be 12 mm of engagement. How many threads are there on a 1.5 12mm nut in 3/8 inches? Is it 6 threads x 1.5 = 9mm, which = 3/8in? Right now, I'm about 1.5 threads from being flush with the open ended nuts. Is this enough or do I need longer studs? Thanks.

 

For Hondas/Acuras I and my shop recommend and 7 minumum. 8 to be safer.

 

i believe the standard is the diameter of the stud plus 1 thread need to be engaged

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igyloo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe the standard is the diameter of the stud plus 1 thread need to be engaged</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is the rule of thumb for engineering design. I would agree that that is a good estimate. BTW, aluminum is 2x the diameter.

 

I am not sure where but I heard that 1 & 1/2 the diameter of the stud. eg 12mm stud = 18mm of engagement.

Seems like anytime you use aftermarket alloy wheels & spacers, you end up needing longer studs.

 

this is an old post but I just purchased a set of Konig Dial in 15"x7" wheels for my 1991 Honda Civic DX. These wheels have a thicker hub and only leave about 1/2" of wheel stud for the lug nut. I wanted to use my Skunk2 aluminum lugs but have heard I need 2 times stud diameter of thread engagement.

12mmx1.5mm wheel studs = .472" thick and x 2 =.945" I would get more than .472 but will not get .945 without extended studs. I know extended studs are the best bet but it means a lot of work, new bearings, a press, bleading the brakes removing the rear swing arms ect ect.

I contacted Skunk2 and they do know ****. I asked 3 different times 3 different ways basically "How much thread engagement is recommended for your aluminum lugs" First answer was make sure they are torqued to Honda specs.
the last answer was "Same as OEM" was the answer. OEM lugs are steel and I cannot believe this is true for aluminum.

 

1/2", don't do it. For sure you have to buy studs, measure it all up and get the longest available that'll fit inside your aluminum nut.

You likely won't be needing new bearings. Only if there is an issue. You don't need to tear it all down either, just get the hubs to the press.

 

The answers dont change after 15 years.

why are you asking the same question?

do the extended lug conversion.

the 1g acura integra rear studs were 1cm longer. 90113-SD2-005
https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-r...onger-2813796/

 

Wow, thanks for posting because I was considering those wheels and had no idea. How much thicker are they relative to "normal" (I guess stock) wheels?

 

Exactly^!

 

Why get Integra studs when you can get ARP studs, which are way sturdier and cost close to nothing?

 

the ridiculously long ARP studs take longer to thread on the nut, and look horribly conspicuous sticking out of the wheel.


[edit]
or just use the ludicrous long ARP studs. because RACECAR. no one said to use the integras, even if +10mm is just enough.

 

I put the ARP's on my CRX probably around 17yrs ago, solved the issue of never having to worry about how big a spacer I need to clear certain tires (i have run full cantilever slicks etc...). And this is the roadrace/autox forum. Function over looks IMO.

 

Agreed. The ARP studs will also last longer, which is good on a car that sees multiple tire changes in the same year.

 

I believe scca needs 7 turns on the lug nuts but that was for a mustang. Im sure it would be very close for most cars. If in doubt I'd just run arp extended studs.

 

For how much the ARP studs cost, it's a no-brainer mod.