http://bcs0227.slash.com/integraRedline.mpeg

...and who can tell something about the motor-setup this R is running

 

I believe it's an canadian GSR with Supercharger and some ITR mods.... That was long time ago....

 

Doesn`t sound like a charger and the 400m sprint after 14seconds is not a surprising time...

 

Hmmm, yeah, maybe it's an Canadian ITR with only I/H/E mods.
But I think the 0-400m time is more like 13 sec. because he didn't release the clutchpedal right at the start but after 1 sec.

 

that is Toronto's famous Tony the tiger... its a GSR with a list of engine mods that never ends... its all motor....

Thing pulls hard... that video does it nooooooo justice. -

http://www.geocities.com/leunghomepage/

ENGINE:
- Custom Individual Throttlebodies (ITB Specs are Classified)
- Custom Vacuum Cylinder
- Custom Air Filtration System (For Street)
- 3" Thermal Stealth Cat-back Exhaust
- 3" CarSound Cat-converter
- Custom HyTech (HiTech) 304 SS Header
- PYR Ported Cylinder Head (Flow Tested with Max Efficiency @ 12mm Lift)
- Milled Cylinder Head
- Lightened Intake and Exhaust Valves
- Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
- Power Enterprise Super Strong Timing Belt
- TODA Racing Spec B Camshafts
- TODA Racing 2nd Gen Cam Gears
- TODA Valvesprings
- Crower Titanium Valve Retainers
- Cusco Oil Catch Can with Custom Baffling
- Golden Eagle Mfg. Godzilla Nodular Ductile Iron Sleeves
- Cometic HP NA 85mm Headgasket (Blown)
- Cometic HP FI 85mm Headgasket (Blown)
- Cometic non-HP NA 85mm Headgasket (Still holding at 4000 km)
- ENDYN Wiseco Rollerwave NA Pistons (14.1:1 CR)
- ENDYN Wiseco High Compression Piston Rings
- Eagle Forged Steel Connecting Rods
- ARP 2000 Rod Bolts
- ARP Head Studs
- ARP Bottom-end (Custom Specs) Bottom-end Studs
- Engine Fully Assembled by CCH Tech
- Bored and Honed to 1980cc
- Magnafluxed and X-rayed B18C1 Crankshaft
- Micro-polished and Fully Balanced Crankshaft
- B20/B18C1 Hybrid Oil Pump (Ported)
- Full Engine Balancing

FUEL SYSTEM:
- RC Engineering 550cc/min High Impedance Injectors
- B&M Fuel Flow Modifier
- B&M Fuel Pressure Gauge
- Walbro GSS-317 255LPH In-tank Fuel Pump
- Custom Fuel Rail with -AN Fittings

IGNITION:
- MSD 6AL Ignition Control Box
- MSD High Vibration Ignition Coil
- MSD Modified Distributor Cap
- MSD 9000-series RPM Module Kit
- MSD 8.5mm Superconductor Ignition Wires
- MSD Launch Control Module Selector
- Custom Engine Grounding Kit

COOLING:
- Fluidyne 40mm Racing Radiator
- Fluidyne 21 lb Radiator Cap
- Fluidyne Ultra-thin Radiator Fan
- Fluidyne Ultra-thin Condensr Fan
- Modified Thermostat
- Custom In-cockpit Fan Activation Switch
- GM Dexcool

DRIVETRAIN:
- USDM Integra Type-R Transmission with LSD
- Clutch Masters Stage III Clutch
- Clutch Masters 8lb CNC Aluminum Flywheel
- Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
- Energy Suspension Sifter Stabilizer Bushings
- Shortened Stock Shifter

MANAGEMENT/MONITOR::
- APEXi Power FC Standalone EMS
- APEXi Power FC Commander Pad
- J&S Electronics Ultra Safeguard V.1
- J&S Dual Monitor
- Autometer Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge
- Autometer Dual Gauge Pod
- Halmeter Wideband O2 Sensor
- Halmeter Air/Fuel Indicator
- Canadian Spec ITR Gauge Cluster
- Tony the Tiger Fine Tuning

HANDLING/BRAKING:
- Eibach Lowering Springs
- Eibach Camber Correction Kit
- Koni Sport Adjustable Shocks
- Integra Type-R Rear Swaybar and Bushings
- BSQ Swaybar Mounting Kit with Reinforcement Plates
- Prothane Polyurethane Suspension Bushing Set
- Summer: 16 X 7.5" Kosei K1 with Pirelli P-zero
- Winter: '95 GSR Rims with Pirelli Winters
- Racing: 15X6.5 JP wheels with Toyo Proxes RA-1
- PowerSlot FR/RR Brake Rotors
- Porterfield R4S Carbon Kevlar FR/RR Brake Pads
- BENEN Rear Strong Bar
- Mugen One-piece Rear Tower Bar
- Integra Type-R Tower Bar
- Battery Trunk Relocation with Battery Box



Modified by RaVAGE00 at 10:22 AM 5/25/2003

 

Supercharged and 14 sec 1/4mile? Ha! That's a first

This video is so old though... it was made 2+ years ago when I was still running my old 1.8L setup with 12.5:1 CR (Also with ENDYN Rollerwaves). I had 215 WHP and full interior during the video shoot, and it was good for a low 13 sec pass. Just count the time when I start launching when you view the video to get a rough estimate. The details of the video were covered many times as well on this message board -- just hit a search on Tony the Tiger in the Archives and I believe you will find some more videos.

Right now, I am running a completely different setup. Resleeved 2.0L with 14.5:1CR, Individual throttles and extensive tuning. The car is also about 200 lbs lighter compared to 2 years ago, and the power output should be somewhere around 250ish WHP right now. I never had a chance to make a new video though... I am too busy with my other new project car


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DutchITR1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe it's an canadian GSR with Supercharger and some ITR mods.... That was long time ago....</TD></TR></TABLE>


Modified by Tony the Tiger at 8:33 PM 5/25/2003

 

hey tony, its fraser...whats the new project car? the camry or the EL? or is there a new one?

 

You're runnig 14.5:1?!?!?!

Do you run on race gas or something??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey tony, its fraser...whats the new project car? the camry or the EL? or is there a new one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Camry? What were you thinking Fraser? You can't make a Camry fast...


Oh yeah, still on 94 oct pump gas... it's all about tuning, although the car does run weird on different days and weather -- it has a much higher inconsistency then say 12.5:1 CR.

 

Holly hell!!! I was running 12.8:1 on 93 octane with the same pistons from Larry, and everyone told me that was high....14:1+, that's amazing...I was running Hondata, but when it got hot down here, I could still hear it ping, maybe cause the humidity...what are you using to tune it, or I guess the question is, how much timing are you running, or lack there of????

Here was mine before I had an Eagle rod snap on me...the tach in my car is a bit off apparently, so I'm not beating on my car quite as hard as it looks... <U>you need the newest version of quicktime to view this:</U>

http://www.dinomotors.com/buttons/stuff/AJ11k.mqv

Later,
Aj

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aaj23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Holly hell!!! I was running 12.8:1 on 93 octane with the same pistons from Larry, and everyone told me that was high....14:1+, that's amazing...I was running Hondata, but when it got hot down here, I could still hear it ping, maybe cause the humidity...what are you using to tune it, or I guess the question is, how much timing are you running, or lack there of????

Here was mine before I had an Eagle rod snap on me...the tach in my car is a bit off apparently, so I'm not beating on my car quite as hard as it looks... <U>you need the newest version of quicktime to view this:</U>

http://www.dinomotors.com/buttons/stuff/AJ11k.mqv

Later,
Aj</TD></TR></TABLE>

2 questions..

what cams?

how much power were you putting down?

thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tony the Tiger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I had 215 WHP and full interior during the video shoot, and it was good for a low 13 sec pass. Just you will find some more videos.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would you agree, that a stock JMD ITR with bolt ons and stripped weight could run a low 13 too ?

Modified by Tony the Tiger at 8:33 PM 5/25/2003[/QUOTE]

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

2 questions..

what cams?

how much power were you putting down?

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

The cams I was running were Skunk2 stage2, and on pump I put down 192 and on 110 I put down around another 13whp, though I never got the dyno sheet from South Florida Performance, so I can't say for sure on race gas...Frank just gave me a guess from what he remembered....

Now I'm running the Toda Spec-C....havn't even finished putting it in the car yet, so no HP numbers....I'll let you guys know when I finish it...I'm hoping for like 215-220 on pump gas this go around....

Later,
Aj

 

Although I think it's possible that an ITR run a low 13 stripped out with bolt ons...it all depends on what bolt ons, and what you define as a bolt on....I've listened to a lot of people about how they have bolt ons and are putting down almost 200whp...but then when asked, they define shaved heads and head gaskets as well as standalones as bolt ons....so I gues everything is relative.

If you're talking about IHE in a JDM ITR...even stripped out, is pretty unlikely...on street tires any way.

Just my opinion,
Aj

 

ITR with I/H/E has to be lucky if it is in the low 14th. We had 3 ITRs on last DRAG race here, stock and one wiht H/E. Run high 14.

 

Uhmm..

Many times I read different thing here... Rick Cater ran 13,89 stock with I/H/E with a daily USDM-driver

 

USA seems to have always more hp and faster 1/4 Mile speed than we in Europe. Damn, how can you drive with about 5.8 kg per hp that easy in the 13th?

 

???

1 second is 1 second.... all over the world

 

haha, it was just a joke. Look at N/a tuning................look on turbo tuning...........and compare the numbers form Euro and USA.......same with 1/4 Mile..........I don't know if it is the elevation, the special Asphalt on DRAG strips.........the different dyno measruments and dyno brands............but after watching the US scene and Euro scene for more than 3 years now I doubt on Euro dyno numbers can copied 1:1 into US dyno umbers........for some reason the US tuning is better *IMO_USdyno#_areHIGHERthanEUROones*

I bet if you dyno an ITR in USA with 200whp and then dyno it in Europe on an Bosh dyno it has lesss power.

Every one in Europe which does a 13.99 in an stock ITR gets 100 Euro from me. There ar eno DRAG races in your area in germany....go ahead and watch equal hp to weight ratio cars and hondas...........

PS: An BMW E46 M3 has 1600kg and 340hp.....is running 13.85 and not better. Different M3s had same results.

go to http://www.hatzer.at/gtech
or http://www.speedandstyle.at and search for Racewars 2 Ergebnisse.

Power to weight is all. and to get into the 13th with an power to weight ratio more than 5.5 kg/hp is very hard.

 

Well...there are a lot of things that can account for different 1/4 mile and whp numbers, and it has a lot to do with geographical location. That's why Dyno's in the us read temperature, barometric pressure, etc...

Even in the US, the hp numbers vary widely, as well as the 1/4 mile times...apparently I got shafted living in south florida, as, not only is it hot down here, but it's also humid, and close to sea level.

That's why I'm always amazed at how fast cars are elsewhere with the same or fewer mods...I guess it's time for a road trip!!

Later,
Aj

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aaj23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well...there are a lot of things that can account for different 1/4 mile and whp numbers, and it has a lot to do with geographical location. That's why Dyno's in the us read temperature, barometric pressure, etc...

Even in the US, the hp numbers vary widely, as well as the 1/4 mile times...apparently I got shafted living in south florida, as, not only is it hot down here, but it's also humid, and close to sea level.

That's why I'm always amazed at how fast cars are elsewhere with the same or fewer mods...I guess it's time for a road trip!!

Later,
Aj</TD></TR></TABLE>

aj, that was a pretty impressive vid. Are you sure your tach was off? if so, how much was it off by? If i were to assume you have a USDM itr tranny, your rpms correlates pretty well to your speedometer.

 

Well...I'm not actually sure, because the tachs become exponentially more inacurate as they get higher up...for example, the rev limiter on a stock ITR is just under 8,500 RPM, something like 8,456...but yet, you'll notice that when you actually hit your rev limiter, on the tach, you're at about 9,000rpm or just shy of it. Using a Vafc or like an SPA tach, you'll notice that at low RPM it's dead on, and continues as such till you get higher up, at like 7K it's a little off, at 8K it's more off, and at like 10K, it's a good bit off.

I put the Hondata in, and believe it or not, it seems a little closer now, but, either way, 9400 rpm acutall is about 9700 on the factory tach.

Not sure of the cause of this, but I'm guessing that the sensor just wasn't meant to read anything past what it was originally calibrated for???

In that video it was off by almost 700rpm. With the Hondata, it more than halfed the margin of error....good investment, not to mention being able to set a rev limiter.

Later,
Aj

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR1858 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Would you agree, that a stock JMD ITR with bolt ons and stripped weight could run a low 13 too ?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well yeah, you can get the same ET but not the same trap. Mind you that the video was done with a street launch, and not a drag strip with sticky pavement and burnouts

But who cares, my old 1.8L setup I had was long gone... I have been running a built 2.0L for more than a year now. Let's talk more about my 2.0L instead of that old slow video

Anyway, my tuning was done with the APEXi PowerFC. Most of the time, detonation occurs between shifts or sudden change of engine speeds and loads. What I like the PowerFC is the ability to add fuel under sudden acceleration, which does help a lot in running more timing with high compression.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tony the Tiger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well yeah, you can get the same ET but not the same trap. Mind you that the video was done with a street launch, and not a drag strip with sticky pavement and burnouts

But who cares, my old 1.8L setup I had was long gone... I have been running a built 2.0L for more than a year now. Let's talk more about my 2.0L instead of that old slow video

Anyway, my tuning was done with the APEXi PowerFC. Most of the time, detonation occurs between shifts or sudden change of engine speeds and loads. What I like the PowerFC is the ability to add fuel under sudden acceleration, which does help a lot in running more timing with high compression.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hear you Tony...

I had the same engine-light blib all the time at block pressure 8 at 5krpm...detonation.... But I liked my power FC.. sold it away though.
I did not want to talk bad about your 1,8l setup from the video... Guys here just believe that a strong JDM ITR with bolt ons and stripped could only run low 14`s... never a 13

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tony the Tiger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well yeah, you can get the same ET but not the same trap. Mind you that the video was done with a street launch, and not a drag strip with sticky pavement and burnouts

But who cares, my old 1.8L setup I had was long gone... I have been running a built 2.0L for more than a year now. Let's talk more about my 2.0L instead of that old slow video

Anyway, my tuning was done with the APEXi PowerFC. Most of the time, detonation occurs between shifts or sudden change of engine speeds and loads. What I like the PowerFC is the ability to add fuel under sudden acceleration, which does help a lot in running more timing with high compression.</TD></TR></TABLE>

make another video.. and then we'll talk about the new setup