Hi folks,

Tried using the search and mostly people were concerned about
the wiring.

I was thinking of mounting the switch into the rear bumper --
since battery was being relocated.

Anyone advise against doing this? Do certain organizations
prohibit this sort of thing?

If not, where do you folks mount your switches in the rear?
I got a '88 Hatchback BTW. TIA.

 

I don't recall what the rules say, but I do have a few comments...
1. Make it easy to find - both for you, your crew, and most importantly, the workers.
2. Most people have them mounted up front, so that is the first place people will look for it.
3. Being able to reach it from the driver's seat is convenient, but not necessary. My friends are jackasses and love to flip it OFF after I'm strapped in.
4. You need to kill all electrical circuits, not just the battery, so you need to somehow break the alternator field wiring as well as the battery ground. You'll either have to bring those wires back, or bring the ground wire forward.

All that said, you may want to consider mounting it on your cage in either window or in the cowl area.

 

I'd have a couple of concerns about mounting in the rear bumper. If you get tapped from behind on track, the switch could get broken or turned off, stopping you dead. On the other hand, if you have an accident, the switch might get smashed in the "on" position, making it hard to kill the system.

I have my switch mounted on the rollbar tube beside the A-pillar on the driver's side. I can reach it, anyone outside can reach it, and it's protected.

 

I second both the first two reply's. I now have mine at the same place GEEZER does. I had it on the passenger side cowling. I don't know how many times i got in the car only to have to crawl out again to turn the "KILL" switch on again.

 

Switch is the 4-pole. Kills all power to the car.

 

Thanks for all the input.

My concern is that there still will be live wire running from a
rear mounted battery to a front mounted switch.
Is this not a big deal after all?

 

Not really, just don't let the wire touch any sharp surfaces and use the mounting tabs that come with the relocation kit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JAMES "A" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I second both the first two reply's. I now have mine at the same place GEEZER does. </TD></TR></TABLE>

me four.

since I still have the glass in my car it has the added benefit of keeping the switch out of the weather when the car is stored (outside).

joel

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WWDTrackRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all the input.

My concern is that there still will be live wire running from a
rear mounted battery to a front mounted switch.
Is this not a big deal after all?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No it really isn't a big deal. Run the wire up to the switch VIA the rollcage. Locate it under the padding if you choose.

It is better suited near the dash as normally when a collision occurs, the workers will be at the front of the car to make suer the driver is okay, they can shut it off right than and there.

Rear bumper I wouldn't choose simply because the fact that it is externally and more than one thing could turn it ON or OFF.

Plus the fact that if you wind up in a tire wall *** end first they will have to push the car out a few feets before anyoen could reach in the kill it.

The rollbar is a good idea as well.

Geezer was basically right.

 

 

I like the idea of being able to reach the switch while I'm strapped in, even though it's not required. Plus, I figure that most workers will find their way to my window in the event of an accident and it's nice to have the switch right there in front of them:

 

Hey man, I like your mounting position, but I think for saftey's sake you might want to get those terminals insulated.

Just my 2 cents.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustChou &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey man, I like your mounting position, but I think for saftey's sake you might want to get those terminals insulated.

Just my 2 cents.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, the job wasn't finished in that pic (notice no padding, net, or any of the other stuff). The pics of the finished job don't show the mount very well

 

looks like you got the same omp pedals i have travis

mounting switch on drivers side so you can reach it

 

uncleben and travis, i got mine mounted to the drivers downpiece as well within reach. however, im going to wire a secondary cable to the passenger side so its accessible on BOTH sides of the car with a simple pull. just an idea id thought id share.

also, as brought up in a previous thread a while ago, its not correct to call a switch with 2 pairs of positive and negative terminals as 4 pole, its just a 2 pole like that red longacre switch shown above.

 

a couple of my friends (AI hopefuls) mount theirs just like in travis' picture, but with the switch facing sideways instead of upwards.

 

Travis, does the horizontal bar under your steering cloumn not interfere with your knees? I have a bolt-in version of that bar just over the steering column (can't see lower 1/3 of the gauges) that I could realistically move to the same position as yours. However, I'm 6'3" and I think my legs would hit it.

 

Hm--anyone else use the Krause & England setup? I did and it passed both SCCA and NASA annual tech at BeaveRun this past weekend. For those that wonder what this setup is-I can send you pictures. It is the Longacre switch mounted on a bracket under the hood with a pull cable up and out under the cowl at the lower edge of the right side of the Windshield - decal there too. Very simple and guanrantees that a corner worker can shut the car down completely. It also preserves the fact that you do not have to penetrate the firewall with any high current cables. Improved Touring does not allow battery relocation, so that is a moot issue. How to wire the switch has been a thread here before and I have made all runs very short and they are well protected.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civic44 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Travis, does the horizontal bar under your steering cloumn not interfere with your knees? I have a bolt-in version of that bar just over the steering column (can't see lower 1/3 of the gauges) that I could realistically move to the same position as yours. However, I'm 6'3" and I think my legs would hit it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You might be surprised. At 6' even I'm not even close to the bar. We tested it above and below the steering column and ultimately decided it worked better below for a number of reasons. I really need to get some pictures of me sitting in the car, but it's not an issue. Maybe it's the way I'm built, but I have long legs. I actually have more of a problem with the steering wheel than I do with the dash bar. The flat bottom dish wheel helped a little.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uncleben &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like you got the same omp pedals i have travis

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here, me likey.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siisgood00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Same here, me likey.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Best pedals $30 can buy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jc836 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hm--anyone else use the Krause & England setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Karl runs this setup on his Integra.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=252593

Grumpy has some good points about this setup in that thread (as well as some good humor from the H-T crowd pre 2002 ECHC).

Mine is on the drivers side roll cage a-pillar. I like the ability to kill the car while buckled in -- just in case.

Pull the fire system, hit the kill switch, jump out the window -- forgetting that the window net is still up.

 

Karl's Kill Switch OWNZ. That is very very trick!

Me likey!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Karl's Kill Switch OWNZ. That is very very trick!

Me likey! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah but it does not meet NHRA's rule book.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jDMJeRk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah but it does not meet NHRA's rule book.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Honda-Tech.com » Road Racing/Autocross

i.e. not the drag racing forum........ I'm sure karl's bald head doesnt meat NHRA's rulebook either