about grounding kit
i forgot but who made their own grounding kit and was selling it. this was a while back if i remember. someone guide me towards this person who is selling homemade grounding kit. and i know guys i can make my own but i'm too lazy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scary1109 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tommy gunns
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and he stopped selling them..
did search stop working?
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and he stopped selling them..
did search stop working?
I'll be putting on the T1R earthing kit saturday and ill tell you guys if i can notice any "differences" hehe. All id like to get from it is better throttle response, better starting and brighter headlights... or so i hear thats what it does.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Champ R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll be putting on the T1R earthing kit saturday and ill tell you guys if i can notice any "differences" hehe. All id like to get from it is better throttle response, better starting and brighter headlights... or so i hear thats what it does.</TD></TR></TABLE>
After I bolted on my Suns Hyper Ground I definitely had brighter headlights, better starts and more throttle response. It was obvious right off the bat. I'm sure you'll be happy with your kit.
After I bolted on my Suns Hyper Ground I definitely had brighter headlights, better starts and more throttle response. It was obvious right off the bat. I'm sure you'll be happy with your kit.
back from the dead!
question: Is it fine to connect each ground point directly back to the negative battery terminal? (e.g. neg batt to intake manifold, neg batt to valve cover, neg batt to tranny, neg batt to distributor, neg batt to alternator)
question: Is it fine to connect each ground point directly back to the negative battery terminal? (e.g. neg batt to intake manifold, neg batt to valve cover, neg batt to tranny, neg batt to distributor, neg batt to alternator)
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ibuprofen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">back from the dead!
question: Is it fine to connect each ground point directly back to the negative battery terminal? (e.g. neg batt to intake manifold, neg batt to valve cover, neg batt to tranny, neg batt to distributor, neg batt to alternator)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, that's how some grounding kits such as the NRG Innovations one work.
question: Is it fine to connect each ground point directly back to the negative battery terminal? (e.g. neg batt to intake manifold, neg batt to valve cover, neg batt to tranny, neg batt to distributor, neg batt to alternator)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, that's how some grounding kits such as the NRG Innovations one work.
I would really like to take the initiative to make my own grounding kit using parts from autozone + home depot..I am just too darn busy and lazy. If someone starts making their own I would be interested in a picking up a set for only one arm, compared to what these things sell for
grounding kits 1st sparked my interest reading about it in Honda-Tuning. I have read up what each kit does and that. The Apexi says it eliminates the AC power reduction. My main concern now is when I hit the gas my headlights and even the lights inside like on the gauges get dimmed. Then when I let off they are bright. All my factory grounds ar connected so I have no idea why it does this. Should I replace the old wires with newer bigger wire? Buy a kit? Add more grounding points?
use at least the same size wire that you're replacing, but i would reccomend going up at least 1 size bigger. Sand down all the grounding points to bare metal and make sure you clean all the rust off your bolts
wrong... the "big 3" which is another name for a grounding kit can help a brand new alternator. (its like a water pump kinda. put a small hose on it and it could burn out prematurely, put a big one on and less stress = longer life. i'm not talking about the water pump on your car btw. dont go get bigger hoses on your cooling system.) this holds especially true for people that have upgraded sound systems or extra fogs. anything that draws extra current.
well I sure hope its not the alternator. I just got this thing lol obviously the alternator has 18k miles but thats pretty low. Maybe time makes them go bad? It is stilla 98 but I would think it would go by miles. I think my uncle rebuilds alternators. maybe its starters idk. I'll try a little DIY grounding upgrade and then go get the electrical system checked out if it still does that.
The stock Type R alternator puts out barely enough amps to run the car -- esp if you have AC.
If you add a sound system -- it gets stressed even more
They still are a waste of money -- you can make them yourself out of 30 bucks of big gauge audiophile quality wire and crimps
If you add a sound system -- it gets stressed even more
They still are a waste of money -- you can make them yourself out of 30 bucks of big gauge audiophile quality wire and crimps
+1
its a way better deal to make your own with some 0 gauge wire. just don't cheap out on the brand or you will probably get 4 gauge wire with really thick coating (which is probably how most of these kits are)
its a way better deal to make your own with some 0 gauge wire. just don't cheap out on the brand or you will probably get 4 gauge wire with really thick coating (which is probably how most of these kits are)
well i agree about the self made ones, as mine i tested were BETTER than the name brand kits
why?
mainly because of the LENGHTS of the wires...
alot of long wires is a waste of time even with HKS printed on them and the 'grounding block'
lol
why?
mainly because of the LENGHTS of the wires...
alot of long wires is a waste of time even with HKS printed on them and the 'grounding block'
lol
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