I want my DC to run 13s or better when I am done. I also want a reliable motor that only requires normal maintenance. I (think) want to turbo my B18A, I also want to get a B16A and go all motor. Once I get one in the car then I am not going to change it again. I have 230k on my motor right now and my 3rd and 4th gear synchros are fucked up. I need to decide soon. What in the hell should I do?!?! I am going nuts. AAAAHHH!

 

hm

buy a complete motor with tranny (used) and just build it from there.

yes money: build and turbo it
no money: take ur time and burn ur money slower

 

BTW, money is no issue.

 

Turbo that biotch

 

Is it not worth the money to buy a type r swap?

 

nah it wouldn't make sense

1). type-r motor comes with high compression and if you want turbo, then it's better off to have a motor that already got some or none low comp pistons.
2). type-r tranny's gear ratio is too close so it'll want to make you shift every 2.5~3 secs Then what's the point of having turbo and not only that it'll just gonna blow the head off sooner
3). Turbo means proper and slow spooling time not shift me asap please. So getting a right sized flywheel matters too. a flywheel that's too light will eliminate turbo lag, but also drops the pressure too soon. Heavy one will spool slower but gives you more top end power on the freeway. So 12pound flywheel should do the job.


so if i were you i'd just buy a b20 block with b18 head so you can have both the spool and then the vtec. Though b20 doesn't come with VTEC feed/return holes so you might want to take it to a pro to do that.

gotta love it when my turbo kicks in at 3500 and vtec at 5300. Feels like I'm about to fly out of the rear windshield as it pull twice

 

besides, you could spend the same amount of money on building and putting all the necessary bolt-ons for n/a and still hit no more than 220 on dyno.

might as well turbo it and hit at least 300whp daily like me @ 8psi

fun, but expensive

 

or just put h22 in there and build it and turbo it! woohoo dang you can hit 460 without racing gas

but that'd be $10,000

thank u

 

I want to stay away from frank motors. I have heard so many mixed feelings about them. I only want like 230 whp or so. Will a rev hard turbo kit with my stock compression ratio be sufficient? And a Thermal exhaust and six puck clutch with a type-r flywheel. I guess I also need a fresh rebuild and new tranny considering my problems.

 

then just bore out the block and get a used or rebuild the tranny.

any turbo kit will hit 230 to engine or @wheels no problem. as long as it's proper maintaned and tuned @ safe boost.

once you go turbo it'll never be enough until you run out of money and motors

some ppl get lucky and can walk away from getting or rebuildn a motor, but many like myself had or might have to do that just to make sure it doesn't go wrong later.

t3/t4 is good enough

 

Sleeve..Bore..Turbo your LS.

offsubject: WOW i just realized that i hit over 1000 post!!! now i can say Honda-Tech owns me... (H-T )

 

buy a mustang :D

 

u were considering a b16a in a dc? uhhh.... i wouldn't recommend that...

i agree w/ everyone else, jus get it sleeved, get some forged rods and pistons, and boost that motor!

 

hey wait a min, u have a b18a? i think u have yourself a DA then...

 

b16a in a dc isn't too bad...

bro ran a 15 flat with a b16a in his old dc... only thing it had was an intake... I think... not even sure if it had that...

But anyways, back to the topic. If you have money, build it and boost like everyone else suggests.

 

i was totally in the same situation as you were. Boost or NA, and it was driving me Nuts! in conclusion, ive decided to go all motor. why? because turbo costs soo much daymn money, especially with all the extra stuff u need to get in order for your motor to be to be reliable and run good. it just seem more like a pain in the ***. Like having more things to monitor. it might be more worth it at the end but i rather go a little slower, be cheaper, and not have to monitor the engine so much. just my .02 but if money wasnt an issue and i had all the money in the world, i would go turbo. and if u decide to, prepare to pay more than what u expect, and its always a good idea to have a beater around to take you to places just in case.

 

Here is the best way to stay reliable and hit 13's.

Get an ITR motor, tranny and ECU. Swap it in. Right there you will be running mid-high 14's.

Get a good quality intake/header/exhaust. Intake - Mugen, Header - SMSP, Exhaust - SMSP. Now you should be hitting 13's or close to it.

If you still aren't hitting 13's, get a Hondata and get SGT to tune it.

If for some odd reason you still can't hit 13's, get some drag radials or slicks.


This will be one of the most reliable setups as you'll still be running a stock motor. Also, this will leave plenty of room for improvement down the road.

 

I agree with going NA now. I rather just monitor the engine. Not the engine and the turbo. The B16 swap is not a bad idea at all. That must be like the tenth time I heard someone say "why would you put a b16 in an integra" and then I hear that people with that swap and no mods are running low 15s or 15 flat. 1990 integra weighs 2560. Two hundred lbs. less than a Civic Si. I am just going to get the B16 swap, CAI, JDM Type-R header, hi flow cat, hi flow exhaust, VAFC, pullies (the basic stuff) and if I want boost I will get a JR supercharger. Maintenance-free boost! Self contained! No oil lines to run! No lag! Boost without the problems of boost! Besides, JR dynoed the Civic Si with their supercharger and it turned out 52 more hp at the wheels. The only other mods were a K&N drop in filter and an Apexi muffler. All of those mods should put me up to 220 at least. If I want more boost then I will get the SC pulley upgrade and have it tuned.

 

Nevermind, the JR supercharger won't fit on my car because the break master cylinder is in the way. I still don't want to do a turbo, so I will go all motor. With just a B16 swap people are running 15 flat. I will just buy the B16 and If I want a type-r then I will get a type-r head and get the spoon stroker kit (basically a new type-r bottom end that has been completely balanced and comes with a spoon 2ply headgasket). Then I will have a type-r motor

 

yeah stick with NA cause once you go turbo you'll never want to turn back =P

 

Turbo and "normal maintenance" dont go together. A forced induced motor requires high maintenance....

cheers
NRG

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turbo and "normal maintenance" dont go together. A forced induced motor requires high maintenance....</TD></TR></TABLE>
And a cammed motor isn't high maintenance? Valve adjustments every 6k or less? Changing the timing belt every 15k or so?

Any motor that is not close to stock requires high maintenance. It doesn't matter if it's N/A or turbo.

 

Yes I agree...so I left it out. Im sorry WiggiE and for all the N/A peoples...



cheers.
NRG

 

Shouldn't be high maintenance if I go with OEM parts though (JDM).

 

Correct and that's why I said for you to swap in an ITR motor and do bolt-ons (which do not change the maintenance) and you will hit 13's. Then down the road if you decide you want more, there is plenty more potential to be found.