What should I replace when pulling the head?

Head studs? Should I go with ARP?

Any gaskets? Etc. Thanks.

 

everything. head bolts, all the gaskets. because the one you dont buy is the one that will need to be replaced, so just buy everything.

 

Which gaskets?

1)Valve cover gasket

 

the plug hole gaskets
Manifold Gaskets
TB gasket
headgasket
headbolts

I also replaced the ex manifold studs and PCV tube (B18A1 has an oil separator box) at the same time.

 

Thanks a lot.

 

oh yeah, change the oil and coolant too. oil change is very easy without the intake manifold in the way

you'll need a 4' breaker bar for the coolant drain on the front of the block.

 

I plan to keep the intake manifold on the head so that it will be easier to pull off. The motor is still in the car.

 

y j00 pull'n da hed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you'll need a 4' breaker bar for the coolant drain on the front of the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

all i needed was 18"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yoshi234 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">y j00 pull'n da hed?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You gotta pull it out to use it dummy!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverB18C1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

all i needed was 18" </TD></TR></TABLE>

I used 12 foot..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I plan to keep the intake manifold on the head so that it will be easier to pull off. The motor is still in the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Since you have it out...install a Hondata intake manifold gasket, and a Mugen head gasket...hmmm...have I done this before....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you'll need a 4' breaker bar for the coolant drain on the front of the block.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol, you just need a 18" breaker bar and a hammer, or your foot....

.... or a 4 foot breaker bar and NO foot or hammer.

Dennis - are you putting on the new head gasket?

I'd replace everything like everyone said, and change the earl.

 

What's EARL?

I might have to install a head gasket if it's not the cam seal that is leaking.

I used a long breaker bar last time to change the coolant. That stuff should be a breeze.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's EARL?

I might have to install a head gasket if it's not the cam seal that is leaking.

I used a long breaker bar last time to change the coolant. That stuff should be a breeze.</TD></TR></TABLE>

earl is the stuff you put in your engine. you know, that 10w30 stuff, or 5w30 or whatever you use.

 

Earl is a brand?

 

earl...oil... lol

 

what the fizzle is the difference between "head stud" and "head bolt"

 

Re Use the Head Bolts!

Wont hurt anybody!


Eric

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rainmanEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Re Use the Head Bolts!

Wont hurt anybody!


Eric </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup

ARP doesn't torque down less than stock can

That's according to IB.. so thats if you wanna take jeff's word.. lol

who wouldn't.. IB

 

Being that head bolts stretch each time you torque them down, I would replace them only because they are cheap insurance.

I'm sure you could use them 2-3 times without having them stretch too much, but why bother?

 

A stud has no hex head, a bolt does (ie. a stud is threaded on both ends). That's the difference between a stud and a bolt.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jonas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what the fizzle is the difference between "head stud" and "head bolt"</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

So for those of you running ARP fasteners, which do you prefer, head studs or bolts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Being that head bolts stretch each time you torque them down, I would replace them only because they are cheap insurance.

I'm sure you could use them 2-3 times without having them stretch too much, but why bother?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They run about $80.00 for oem Head Bolts!

Thats why i re use them 2-3 times!

Eric

 

you shouldnt have any problems with re using your head bolts

Dennis are you also doing your valvetrain ? if not ,you should and take the advantage of having the head off ....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rainmanEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

They run about $80.00 for oem Head Bolts!

Thats why i re use them 2-3 times!

Eric </TD></TR></TABLE>