I have 2, where do they go? does it matter if I have an auto for the breathers?

 

Im assuming your talking about the breather that vents through the valve cover. If so, thats where it goes. There is a little hole/tube that sticks out.
I also recall reading an article from T.O.O. that improper breather/breathing through the valve cover will cause catastrophic bottom end failure?!?! Thats what I got outta reading the article but never understood why so.

 

hmmmmm.... anyone else heard of "catastrophic" failure?

 

yeah i actually heard the same thing too.... it goes somewhere along the lines that the valve cover breather needs the vacuum effect the intake makes and without it, you might lose performance or reliability or lose something that you really need

 

Yea 4dr-gsr, it was by T.O.O. if my memory serves correct.
I never really understood WHY this would happen.
Keys, did you understand that part?
Like Keys said, it had to do something with a vacuum effect.
As a guess, I think it was maybe to do with the oil vaporizing and not lubricating?!? me confuzed

 

sup teken?
how ya been?

 

I have them on my car and i think theyr the reasons why i get an oily smell.

 

so Teken.......i dont think the question has been answered yet, will the performance of your car decrease from the breather or it wont?

 

i just put one of those valve cover K&N filter on my car , only because everyone told me it was a good idea. Don't know anything about it

 

I built a homemade Catch can using a vented Mountain Dew bottle and some soft hose. So far no Engine failure and my oil is looking good.

 

skip them not worth it. I've already had to replace one because the metal clamps cuts through the rubber.

Is that your engine bay? Separate those wires!

 

I like them interfearing with eachother Too late already cut them. Butt thanks.

 

slowerthanu, thats pretty cool, and ghetto at the same time heh

Well, the air breather thing according to TOO i believe said it was a positive pressure thingy, meaning, the valve cover nipple is pressureized, instead of being in a vaccum and having the vapors sucked out and back into the TB....In the Helms manual, it also hints that it has positive pressure....However, TOO also said that the connection to the stock Intake tube is angled, i looked at mine and it is NOT angled, it is flushed with the inner tubing so i personally can not figure out where the positive pressure is comming from, all i can imagine is the vapor getting sucked out....TOO is possibly wrong. but im looking at the Helms again now, and it does indicate air is pushed into the valve cover....it has to do with the PCV function i believe, unless im reading it wrong...
IMO, i still thinks it's used to keep the oil vapors to go back into the engine to be burned, as part of the evap control for emissions. But the Helms does say otherwise

 

Ghetto is the SQUAD 752 motto J/K

I got bored and finished my DEW so I recycled hehe

 

teken's first post is right, the sole purpose of the breather hose is to re-circulate fuel/oil fumes back into the air intake, rather than into the air. this, consequently, also plays a role in causing carbon buildup in the throttle body and intake manifold. so, if replace the hose with a filter, you've reduced the amount of 'gunk' being dumped into your upper-engine. from a performance standpoint, i doubt that the breather filter alone will take you into the 13's but it may keep your TB and manifold cleaner. hope this helps.

 

Please study the Honda diagram below. You will notice that the air flows from the intake tube (before the throttle body) to the valve cover. Meaning that fresh air is flowing from the intake to the valve cover. You will also notice that oil vapors flow from the PCV valve to the intake manifold (after the throttle body).



Here is the link incase the picture does not work: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...nce=0&res=high


The reason for the air flow from the intake to the valve cover is to create pressure on top of the valve train equal to the pressure on the bottom of the valve train. Now if you disconnect the tube between intake tube and the valve cover you will only have pressure on the bottom side of the valve train and this will cause "oil blow by".

If you want to prevent the oil vapors from gunking up your intake manifold you will need to install an oil catch can between the PCV valve and the intake manifold. The oil catch can will do just that, in will catch or trap the oil vapors before they enter the intake manifold. I installed an oil catch can on my GS-R for this very reason. Here is a picture of the oil catch can installed on my car.



Here is the link incase the picture does not work: http://www.geocities.com/bretq/dyi_oil_catch_can.jpg


I hope this clears up a few issues which have been discussed.


[Modified by BSQ, 7:08 AM 7/11/2001]

 

Thought that this might be helpful. Here is a diagram that illustrates how the oil catch can works. This diagram was supplied by T.O.O. ( http://www.theoldone.com ).

 

Does anyone wanna post on how to actually make a catch can? So far everyone has put pictures, digrams, but no instructions. That would be cool if anyone knows, please explain.

 

Ask and you shall receive!!!

================================================== ===

DIY Oil Catch Can installation instructions

How to install an Oil Catch Can in a ’94 – ’01 Acura Intergra.

Here are the parts that are needed for the installation:

Moroso Dry Sump Breather Tank (Oil Catch Can). # 85470.
$65.99 @ Jegs

PCV Valve (real application is a Ford truck)
Fram FV294 or
Motorcraft EV-140 or
Puralotor PV-140 or
FOMOCO E7TZ-6A666-A
$1.99 @ Advance Auto Parts

Help! Ford PCV Valve rubber grommet #42048.
$4.99 @ Advance Auto Parts

Watts 3/8” Flare to Flare Union. #A-165.
$1.29 @ Home Depot

Watts 3/8” x 3/8” Barb to FIP Adapter. #A-298.
$1.48 @ Home Depot

Watts 3/8” Barb Splicer #A-290
$1.39 @ Home Depot

3/8” ID clear, high-pressure reinforced tubing (10 feet)
$5.25 @ Home Depot

Teflon Tape.
$.58 @ Home Depot

3/4” OD hose clamps. 6.
$1.50 @ Home Depot

Installation Instructions:
1. Put Teflon tape on threads of A-165 union and screw into side of Moroso tank.
2. Put Teflon tape on threads of A-165 union and screw A-298 adapter onto A-165 flare to flare union.
3. Install new PCV valve into Help! rubber grommet. Install rubber grommet with PCV valve onto top of oil catch can.
4. Locate a suitable location in the engine compartment for the mounting of the oil catch can. (I chose a location on the passenger side shock tower.)
5. Remove the hose from the original PCV valve barb. Install the barb splicer (A-290) into end of the hose and securing it with a hose clamp. Install one end of the high-pressure hose onto the other end of the barb splicer (A-290). Secure it with a hose clamp.
6. Determine the length of hose that is needed to the new PCV valve on top of the oil catch can. Cut hose the to length and install the hose onto the new PCV valve on the oil catch can. Secure it with hose clamp.
7. Install one end of the high-pressure hose onto the other end of the original PCV valve barb. Secure it with hose clamp.
8. Determine length of hose needed to install the hose onto the Watts barb adapter (A-298) on the oil catch can. Cut the hose to length. Install onto barb on oil catch can, secure with a hose clamp.
9. Zip tie hoses securely.
10. Start engine and check to make sure there are no vacuum leaks.

 

nice, thanks BSQ, i saw in the Honda diagrams that it is a positive pressure, but i cant understand how they made it to push air into it, i guess it's fluid dynamics....either case, nice catch can set up, are you getting lots of crapper in there? I thought it would do more good on a boosted car than on a NA car driven normally (read, not on a track), once the vapor goes through the catch can it is routed back into the manifold correct? so it IS emission legal.......either way thanks for the info and clearing it up.....now if someone can explain to me the fluid dynamics that makes the pressure positive.....if not i'll have to find out myself

Is it possible that.......perhasp, the valve cover breather is actually sucking in air, and air isnt really being PUSHED into it via the intake hose.....meaning, leaving it off would do more benefit than having it imporperly set up so it creates a vaccum?For instance if you hook it up to an intake in such a way the intake SUCKS through the valve cover, that would be bad. But Honda set it up in a way that, when the PCV is venting air OUT, the vaccum caused by this draws air into the engine through the breather? (if you look at the diagram, it shows the air being drawn in comes from the breather, but it shows it's travel to the bottom and then eventually back out.....does this make sense, it's just an idea....also notice the PCV valve is worked by the vaccum in the manifold, so more vaccum there, draws more oil air out, more oil air out, breather sucks in more air to reach a pressure equilibrium. Breather not venting anything out, and if air isnt drawn through the breather, the oil will blow through and into the combustion chamber if im correct due to the pressure difference?




[Modified by Ricehornet, 2:52 AM 7/12/2001]

 

I just emptied my oil catch can last weekend and I did drain approx. 2-3 tablespoons of oil. This accumulation was after approx. 3,000 miles of street driving and a 2-day track event. So needless to say, it is doing its job. Now if I wouldn't have had the oil catch can installed the 2-3 tablespoons of oil would have been feed back into the intake manifold which "gunks up" the intake manifold.

From what I have read, the oil catch can would be more benificial on a boosted car than on a NA car. But you can see that on my '94 GS-R (w/ 67k miles) with a stock engine and driven moderately on the street most of the time and sees some track time, the oil catch can will prevent the oil vapors from entering the intake manifold. Since the PCV valve is still intact and the vapors are not being vented into the atmosphere it is emissions legal.


I do not believe that the valve cover breather is sucking. I'm fairly certain that the intake is PUSHING air into the valve cover breather. More than likely this is a fluid dynamics principle, but I cannot be certain since I have never studied fluid dynamics. One way to tell if it is sucking is to disconnect the valve cover breather hose and place your finger over the breather opening. You should be able to tell if the breather in "sucking". I fairly certain you will not find any vacuum. Now as RPMs rise you will probably find that the breather is "exhaling" because of the lack of air pressure from the intake tube. This can be confirmed because several people have reported an "oily" smell when they are using a valve cover breather filter in place of the intake tube and the oil residue on the underside of the hood.


This is correct. If there is not an equaliberium of pressure there will be "oil blow by" past the piston rings and the blow by will end up in the combustion chamber. If the oil vapors enter the combustion chamber this can lead to detonation (especially on a boosted car since they run at higher temperatures), which could eventually lead to a "catastrophic engine failure" because of the repeated engine detonation.

HTH...


[Modified by BSQ, 5:15 AM 7/12/2001]

 

FYI...I have added the oil catch can instructions to my website. Here is the link: http://www.geocities.com/bretq/DIY_O...tructions.html

 

Wow, this topic grew quite a bit!
I also learned something new, thanks BSQ

 

AND Ricehornet!

 

T.O.O. Reccomends using a "Slash Cut" piece of metal inserted into the Intake Tube. The piece has an open angled end that faces the flow of air coming from the air filter. This creates positive pressure.

Apparently some of the stock rubber intake pipes on Hondas, have this pipe, some don't. I don't know of any aftermarket intakes that have a slash-cut pipe in their intakes. Basicly the flow of air in the intake track will be slightly higher than atmoshperic pressure, that has an advantage over just sticking a K$N breather filter on your valve cover. It will increase the positive pressure feeding the Catch Can.

Laters,
Karl