Modified by jisu009 at 8:42 AM 2/2/2004

 

Post problem here if you want help.

 

Ok, I will attempt to explain the problem. My car has run pretty much perfect until I installed my new Koni/GC setup. The only electrical componet I touched was the fuse box on the left strut tower, i moved it about an inch to gain access to the top bolts that hold the shock in place. When I tried to start the car after the install, it would not start. I tried to jumpstart it, thinking I may have left the ignition on while doing the install. That did not work either. So I compression started the car. It seemed to be running fine, until it came up to temp. That is when I noticed the temp gauge was fluctuating as I increased the RPM's. I then shut the car off, and it would not start again at that point. I did a preliminary inspection of all the engine wiring at that point and all seemed well. That took about 30 min. I went to start the car agian and it started fine. I then proceeded to take it for a spin around the block to try and simulate the problem. When it came up to temp agian, my vtec would not engage, and I still had the temp gauge problem. So knowing something was wrong, I slide into my driveway to further diagnose the problem. That was last weekend. Since then I have checked the battery ground, and it is good (battery is relocated to trunk). The + cable is all in perfect shape all the way to the front of the car, where it is connected to a distribution block (audio style componet, Pheonix Gold product). The starter cable is connected to the distribution block, and the connection to the starter is solid and intact. The distribution block also feeds the power for the fuse box, which is solid and intact as well. Now I have run a series of tests throughout the engines main harness. When the key is on, and all engine harness plugs are in place. The engine has about 4.6 volts at any given point on the block, tranny, head, starter, intake manifold, engine mounts. etc. When I pull the plug from the alternator, the volts drop to about 1.6. When I pull the wire from the fuse box to the alternator, still 1.6 volts to the entire engine. The wire from the fuse box to the alternator has no breaks in it. Now what is really confusing me is, when I check the yellow and black wire on the alternator plug, it seems to have continuity to the whole motor, but I can't find any breaks in it. When I remove the ignition plug from the fuse panel under the dash, there is no longer any volts running to the motor. I have checked my ignition switch and it is in working order. I have also checked various wires for continuity. I will admit, my weakness is electrical diagnosetics. I can sit here all day and try to explain all the tests I have performed. I don't think that will do any good. I need someone in the seattle area that really knows what they are doing. I have cash in hand and would really like to get this fixed this weekend.

Anyone??