Well I tried to install my illuminas and gc's today but I couldnt get the lca bolts out. They are all stripped to hell. Well long story short I tried to pull the strut out anyways and now it's sitting all messed up. Is there ANYWAY to do this without pulling out either lca bolt??????

 

Help!!!!!

 

to answer your question...no.

but to find a solution....search...i'm not trying to be mean...i just dont want to waste my finger muscles on typing an explanation about something that has been covered numerous times...search "LCA" under the EG forum catagory..and you'll be set!

 

front or back?
is it totally stripped?
If so, for starters u need to go to honda and get another bolt. Then u need to try and get that one off, if u can't u need to drill it out or get somthing to grab onto it and attempt to get it out.

 

If it's the rears, my guess is it's frozen to the bushing, in that case, you'll destroy the bushing getting it out, and most times, the bushing must be pressed out, a new one pressed in, and then replace the bolt. Sorry, I know how bad this sucks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00-ITR-373 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Sorry, I know how bad this sucks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I imagine many of us do, that bolt is notorious.

Here is what I did, with the help of a more experienced buddy of mine who was able to use a few tricks I may not have thought of.

I ended up removing the entire LCA with the shock still attached. On the one that had a snapped bolt (head came clean off), I simply cut, bent and pryed the shock fork off of the snapped bolt. This is where not needing the shock is extremely beneficial, but I don't know what your situation is. Anyway, I was left with the LCA seperated from everything with a siezed bolt still in the bushing. Took the bushing to a shop to get pressed out (cost me 20 bucks or so to have 2 done, see below). Picked up a polyurethane bushing kit that would replace the old bushing and pushed it right in.

On the other side, the head was stripped and the bolt completely siezed as well. My buddy takes a 13mm or 16mm, can't remember exactly, basically a socket that is 1mm smaller than what it is supposed to be, and hammers it onto the bolt head. Now it has a nice tight grip, and he tries his damnedest to break the bastard off. SNAP!! Bolt head comes off, we repeat the procedure above!

Have fun, the whole ordeal makes it so sweet when you finally have everything working again.

 

yowssahs! ur car is going to be down for a bit.... if u stripped out the threads on the chassis u'll have to rethread it. time to get the bike out and ride to the parts shop for the kit.

 

BUY THE CRAFTSMAN STRIPPED NUT/BOLT REMOVER!!!!!


those fawkers work like a charm for removing worn nuts and bolts. it could save you ALOT of time!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FifthGearOnline &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BUY THE CRAFTSMAN STRIPPED NUT/BOLT REMOVER!!!!!


those fawkers work like a charm for removing worn nuts and bolts. it could save you ALOT of time!</TD></TR></TABLE>

True! True! He's right about those Craftsman bolt remover! They work like a charm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCivicEF9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

True! True! He's right about those Craftsman bolt remover! They work like a charm. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Really???? Luckily it's just the head that is stripped or should I say rounded off, Now which lca pull should I be working at, the one closer to the rear brake or the one closer to the car.

 

To The Top.

 

oh nice! its just the HEAD thats stripped. I thought u stripped the threads . ur good then, just get an extractor tool like those gents said.

 

:Bump: