Well today at AEBS here in San Diego, I went to have my Hondata S100 installed and get everything tuned..I had high hopes, anywhere from 210WHP to 225 tuned, because i knew of a person with an untuned JSRC who made 225WHP...alas it would seem like i am in for a major disappointment...best pull was at 189 WHP, then car started going crazy, too lean at times, then too rich, then too lean and losing about 10WHP....I am currently running RC 370's, Wahlbro 255 pump, hondata s100 w/boost option,I/H/E/, the worse part was I made 165WHP on Import Builders dyno about 6 months ago normally aspirated....

Now for some trouble shooting, going to get all my used RC 370's flow tested, and see if that is the problem, then move to the fuel pump, buy an MSD in-tank pump if the Wahlbro is going bad... if the injectors are bad, gonna buy Bosch 440's and see if that helps...anyone else have such bad luck with this kit?

 

What psi are you running?

 

You can easily make 210whp+ with that setup. I made 197 whp @ 6psi on my B16A2 and 215 whp @ 8psi...both with the stock exhaust.

If you've got your Hondata map, let's see it.

Before you go spending any more many, do a compression check.

Sonny

 

Fluctuating A/F like that doesn't seem too good. Focus more on the tuning part. I wouldn't pay too much attention to HP numbers as I base dynoed less than stock when it first got on the dyno. I too was disappionted.

You are in the 180's so just work on that. With more tuning, you can easily get into the 190's. Trust me, its not uncommon to see blown motors pulling such low numbers. With just the same setup and more tuning, I've seen as much as 20whp increases.

I don't what else you got in your car, but if everything else is stock besides what you listed, then its not that bad. Just work on it more.

 

my 2k JRSC GSR made 222fwhp in cold weather and 202 in hott weather.
its basically stock @ 8 psi with no hondata.
it all depends on weather.

 

You need to talk to Rboosted. I think he had the same problem on his JRSC Type R. Now his car runs 12's.

 

are your injectors used? if they are, u should make sure they flow well.

also, is the tuner u went to known to be reputable? with a hondata system, u should not onlu be seeing 210-220whp, u should also have ZERO problems with fuel and all that other junk. this is WHAT I HEARD

but keep us updated because with 180 or so whp, i would go to JRSC headquarters directly and smack Mr. jackson myself

EDIT: yes, injectors are used. didnt catch that. check those out for sure.

 

although i agree that the numbers are low, im starting to see more and more people posting about their JRSC being only 180-190 WHP.......

a bad trend

oh, im thinking of ditching my JRsC and giong turbo if anyone wants to buy a JRSC with only 5000 miles on it

 

hot weather makes the JRSC run shitty

 

As for the reputable place for the dyno, I trust AEBS, they built the 7-second turbo Focus at 50psi @950WHP. I am going to get my RC injectors flow tested here in SD hopefully at the end of the week.

I am running stock boost which is 6psi, I want to install my CRV crank pulley and bump up my boost to about 10psi and run it there, but first i want to get my car running right.

I just hope with all the money I spent on that Hondata S100, tuning, and various other things, my car seems to run slower than without it.... I just hope it all works out in the end..

 

Sounds like tuning to me. I bet you don't have enough timing.

send me your map at integratyper265@hotmail.com, and I'll take a look at it.

 

I have not seen a printout of my map yet, I only have the S100 with boost, all i have is the printout of the dyno pull . I will request the map they were using and see if i can post it...

 

it won't be a printout, it will be a BIN file and be 32KB

 

I will visit AEBS and get that file and see if I can post it this week...

 

OK stupid question... Are you using the FMU that came with the Jackson? Cuz there's no way you're getting enough fuel with 370cc on a B18C controlling them with a Hondata. Your static fuel pressure would be 60ish with 370 on that engine.

And for those people stupid enough to bust me out on not needing to use an FMU with a Hondata, I know that. I was just stating that if he's not then with his setup he has now he's not getting enough fuel. Acutally the only reason anyone would run an FMU with a Hondata is if they cheaped out and used 370cc injectors instead of a more appropriate size like 440's.

370's ain't gona cut it on a B18... I don't care how you look at it... 6 pounds or more... doesn't matter. Get bigger injectors and go back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Cwon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my 2k JRSC GSR made 222fwhp in cold weather and 202 in hott weather.
its basically stock @ 8 psi with no hondata.
it all depends on weather.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is very true and quite typical. the JRSC manifold gets heat soaked pretty easilly. I installed the heat sheild gasket when I first installed my JRSC and was still very surprised to see intake temps as high as 230 degrees at the end of the back straight at VIR. This was in Feburary as well, I'm scared to think of what the temps would be in the middle of summer

I have since installed the JR water injection kit and I haven't seen intake temps much higher than 150-160

I love my (as yet untuned) JRSC but I do admit, its VERY sensitive to temperature.

I have a CRV crank pulley lying around but there is no way I'm installing it before I get a Hondata and possibly the new intercooled manifold that everyone is talking about.

anybody feel like loaning me 2 grand

Mike

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRSCCivic98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK stupid question... Are you using the FMU that came with the Jackson? Cuz there's no way you're getting enough fuel with 370cc on a B18C controlling them with a Hondata. Your static fuel pressure would be 60ish with 370 on that engine.

And for those people stupid enough to bust me out on not needing to use an FMU with a Hondata, I know that. I was just stating that if he's not then with his setup he has now he's not getting enough fuel. Acutally the only reason anyone would run an FMU with a Hondata is if they cheaped out and used 370cc injectors instead of a more appropriate size like 440's.

370's ain't gona cut it on a B18... I don't care how you look at it... 6 pounds or more... doesn't matter. Get bigger injectors and go back.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I took these 370's from a friend of mine who was pushing 235+ WHP on a B18C1 just like me. I was using the Jackson FMU, but removed it when i was on the dyno. It appears that maybe my Walhbro fuel pump might be going out, or the RC 370's, or maybe even the tuning..at this point it seems like a bad luck streak...first thing I am doing this Monday is getting my injectors flowed at San Diego Carburator..if that doesn't work..then Bosch 440's are going in the beast...
I just installed some Denso Iridium plugs too think they would help.... didn't do much on the dyno... gapped at.025...

 

Do a compression check, man. Check the basics before you spend any money.

And as mentioned above, the JRSC is very sensitive to heat soak. You gotta wait at least 5 mins between runs or you'll end up with air temps so high that you'll kill power.

Sonny

 

Good idea too, I wil do the compression check this weekend in my garage and see what I get on all 4 cylinders.. .. last time i did it was when i first installed the engine, got 210 all across ...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blue-Civic-Hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I just installed some Denso Iridium plugs too think they would help.... didn't do much on the dyno... gapped at.025...</TD></TR></TABLE>

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! hehe

Take those out. They suck for FI and they are way too hot a plug for your application especially since you're supercharged and non-intercooled. Iridiums will cause all sorts of problems with detonation. Switch to 7 range NGK plugs.

 

that's strange.. seems lots of the faster guys are using the iridums. i can count several IRDC racers that use them.

anyway, hope you get it fixed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lazerus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's strange.. seems lots of the faster guys are using the iridums. i can count several IRDC racers that use them.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

This from a guy who drives a DSM... (With low compression already...) hehe

OK, let me rephrase this... Don't use high heat range Iridiums in an already high compression ratio motor when you have FI on it that's not intercooled. You want to take every precaution to get rid of extra heat from the compression chamber when you have this sort of setup.

Oh and how long do the guy in IDRC run for??? 1/4 mile... yeah, try beating those cars up on the street for 30 min streight and see what you get.

Point is, for street cars that will get beat on sometimes and especially in the summer months (cuz you know that dick in a Mustang is gona pull up next to you when you leave the movies) you have to be very aware of how hot those combustion chambers really run. Iridiums will not help you solve this problem... and they make what... 4 more hp on the dyno. Gimme a break.

 

Did AEBS do these things:

1. Remove the relay mechanism that JR use on the air temperature sensor. This "tricks" the computer into thinking the air is at a very low temperature when on boost, which opens the injectors more to deliver more fuel.

2. Transfer the map sensor from the throttle body to the fitting where the rising rate regulator was removed. If this is not done, the map sensor will only see atmospheric pressure and will run dangerously lean.

3. Plug the old map sensor hole in the throttle body.
Remove any boost retard devices.

4. On early model Hondas the intake air temperature sensor is located here where it measures the temperature of the intake charge.
In later model Hondas this location is left blank as the intake air temperature sensor is mounted between the throttle body and air filter. If the temperature sensor is left in that position it cannot compensate for increased intake temperatures and the car will run rich under boost.

Purchase an OBD I intake air temperature sensor (about $50) and mount in the blower manifold. The OBD I air temperature sensor is a variable resistor and can be wired onto the OBD II wiring in any way.

 

My car is an OBD1 equiped vehicle, and I did the install of the supercharger myself. I saw them block offf my map sensor hole, move the map sensor to the left with a fab'd bracket, and connect the map sensor directly to the intake housing of the supercharger...

Well, i took off all the injectors to see of they flow well, sending them in the morning for flow testing and test results of the flow ... I'll try to post pics of the charts and the way my supercharger is set up...

 

Somthing is definately wrong...

My b18c w/ an s100, DSM 450s, and JRSC @ 6 psi yielded 228 whp SAE w/ a stock ITR exhaust.

And 370s would be just fine as my duty cycle at 8500 is 67%... 12.2:1 a/f
Here is a link to the dyno

http://www.c-speedracing.com/temppics/DSC00174.JPG