lowering a type sh prelude help!
ok i put 17s on my lude and i want to lower it. it is a 2000 type sh. i hear the struts and springs are different from the base model? is that true? then i hear you cant put lowering springs on factor sh struts because it want lower right, but you can buy aftermarket struts and springs and they will be for all 97 and up prelude, and they will work on a sh. is that true? eibach makes springs for a type sh and that is the only place i found that makes them. i just want to put springs on for now, but will i have to get struts and springs? DAMN i just want to lower the car
please help
please help
neuspeed makes some nice springs for the SH as well. you can replace the springs for now, but eventually your shocks will wear. and the geometry of the front suspension of the base and SH differ, so the parts won't match up the same.
Eibach is full of it. They claim the same springs will work the same on both models, which is a load of crap.
And I don't know what to think about the Neuspeed offerings. Last I checked, there were 3 or 4 different part numbers for different Prelude sport springs. After spending several hours talking to different sales reps & tech guys, I gave up trying to figure out what the differences were, and bought some H&R's.
But basically, you're correct. Install aftermarket springs & shocks at the same time (which is a good idea even without fitment issues), and your ride height will be as advertised.
And I don't know what to think about the Neuspeed offerings. Last I checked, there were 3 or 4 different part numbers for different Prelude sport springs. After spending several hours talking to different sales reps & tech guys, I gave up trying to figure out what the differences were, and bought some H&R's.
But basically, you're correct. Install aftermarket springs & shocks at the same time (which is a good idea even without fitment issues), and your ride height will be as advertised.
daemione do you have a sh? did the h&r springs lower good? and were they specfic on type sh and base model. i just dont want deal wit all the **** of gettin the wrong springs. thanxs
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by enviousinterga »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">daemione do you have a sh? did the h&r springs lower good? and were they specfic on type sh and base model. i just dont want deal wit all the **** of gettin the wrong springs. thanxs
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Yes, it's an SH (as indicated in my sig . . . .) The H&R's only have one part number, which fits the base model. But like I said, replace the shocks at the same time on an SH and they'll fit properly.
Bottom line: No one makes SH-specific springs or shocks, no matter what they claim. The SH has a spring perch roughly an inch lower than the base, and springs about an inch longer. Run a search and you should be able to find pictures that I've posted comparing the two side-by-side.
The springs are great, I have them matched up with KYB AGX's, and am very satisfied with the combination. Best budget combo, in my opinion ($450 for the springs & shocks). My only complaint with the springs is that the rears have a very mild spring rate at the beginning of their compression, so any extra weight in the trunk causes some sag.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, it's an SH (as indicated in my sig . . . .) The H&R's only have one part number, which fits the base model. But like I said, replace the shocks at the same time on an SH and they'll fit properly.
Bottom line: No one makes SH-specific springs or shocks, no matter what they claim. The SH has a spring perch roughly an inch lower than the base, and springs about an inch longer. Run a search and you should be able to find pictures that I've posted comparing the two side-by-side.
The springs are great, I have them matched up with KYB AGX's, and am very satisfied with the combination. Best budget combo, in my opinion ($450 for the springs & shocks). My only complaint with the springs is that the rears have a very mild spring rate at the beginning of their compression, so any extra weight in the trunk causes some sag.
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Daemione, do you have the part numbers for the shocks and springs that you used? I live in the UK and have a JDM Type S, (a proper one in red with leather, carbon fibre etc. and it is greaaat), but am finding it hard to get info on what will fit. I believe that the shocks and springs on my car are basically the same as on the SH as both cars have ATTS. My only problem is that i have 18 x 8's fitted with 225/40/18 tyres so do not want to lower too much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by peanutome »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Daemione, do you have the part numbers for the shocks and springs that you used? I live in the UK and have a JDM Type S, (a proper one in red with leather, carbon fibre etc. and it is greaaat), but am finding it hard to get info on what will fit. I believe that the shocks and springs on my car are basically the same as on the SH as both cars have ATTS. My only problem is that i have 18 x 8's fitted with 225/40/18 tyres so do not want to lower too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Umm. . . didn't I talk to you a couple weeks ago on vtec.net about this?
Check my answers there, they haven't changed any.
Umm. . . didn't I talk to you a couple weeks ago on vtec.net about this?
Check my answers there, they haven't changed any.
ok so i buy kyb struts or another brand and h&r springs or another brand for a 97 and up prelude, and i dont have to say its a type sh. it will be for a base model and it all will fit perfect on the 00 type sh. is all that right? did your atts light come on after you lowered it and if so did it give you problems.
As other have indicated, if you only put spring on an SH. the front will sit lower than normal....
just buy both @once, you are most likely going to have to replace your stock dampers soon anyway.
just buy both @once, you are most likely going to have to replace your stock dampers soon anyway.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnviousIntegra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so i buy kyb struts or another brand and h&r springs or another brand for a 97 and up prelude, and i dont have to say its a type sh. it will be for a base model and it all will fit perfect on the 00 type sh. is all that right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, I don't know how to say it any clearer than I already have in this thread. If you don't believe me, do what you should have done in the first place, and search.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did your atts light come on after you lowered it and if so did it give you problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. Completely unrelated.
Dude, I don't know how to say it any clearer than I already have in this thread. If you don't believe me, do what you should have done in the first place, and search.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did your atts light come on after you lowered it and if so did it give you problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. Completely unrelated.
Unless ride height is changed, shocks won't affect camber. You have negative camber because of the nature of the suspension's geometry. When the suspension compresses, negative camber increases to keep a constant contact patch and help cornering. When you lower the car, it's like the suspension is partially compressed all the time, so there will be more negative camber all around.
The camber kits are what you need to fix camber, as it isn't adjustable on the stock suspension. But you need to have them adjusted properly while getting an alignment in order to be useful - they're not "plug & play". You can usually eyeball them during installation to get a ballpark camber setting that's good enough to drive around on for a few days, but get an alignment as soon as possible. You need one after any modifications to the suspension anyway, or else you can expect EXTREMELY fast tire wear due to bad toe. And until you get it aligned, handling may be unpredictable as well.
Make sure that wherever you go for the alignment knows that you have aftermarket camber kits, and that they know what alignment specs you're going for on them.
FWIW, I do not have camber kits with my H&R sport springs. There is some negative camber - but not too severe. It would probably be less without the extra weight in my trunk. I estimate probably 5,000 miles or so sacrificed from the life of my Kumho's because of it. They're also somewhat noisier than they would be due to the accelerated wear on the inside shoulders.
The camber kits are what you need to fix camber, as it isn't adjustable on the stock suspension. But you need to have them adjusted properly while getting an alignment in order to be useful - they're not "plug & play". You can usually eyeball them during installation to get a ballpark camber setting that's good enough to drive around on for a few days, but get an alignment as soon as possible. You need one after any modifications to the suspension anyway, or else you can expect EXTREMELY fast tire wear due to bad toe. And until you get it aligned, handling may be unpredictable as well.
Make sure that wherever you go for the alignment knows that you have aftermarket camber kits, and that they know what alignment specs you're going for on them.
FWIW, I do not have camber kits with my H&R sport springs. There is some negative camber - but not too severe. It would probably be less without the extra weight in my trunk. I estimate probably 5,000 miles or so sacrificed from the life of my Kumho's because of it. They're also somewhat noisier than they would be due to the accelerated wear on the inside shoulders.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnviousIntegra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it hard to remove the type sh sway bar on the front so you can lower it? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, when I did mine I took apart the lower ball-joint on the radius arm (like it says to in the Helms). It's not hard at all, just use a Pittman arm puller (not a pickle fork), and protect the end of the bolt with something as you use it.
I have heard that you can disconnect the sway to get the necessary clearance to remove the strut, but I've personally never tried it.
Actually, when I did mine I took apart the lower ball-joint on the radius arm (like it says to in the Helms). It's not hard at all, just use a Pittman arm puller (not a pickle fork), and protect the end of the bolt with something as you use it.
I have heard that you can disconnect the sway to get the necessary clearance to remove the strut, but I've personally never tried it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blacksh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have bilsteins and neuspeed springs and its money</TD></TR></TABLE>
They make Bilstein's for Preludes?
They make Bilstein's for Preludes?
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